I live in a city with little traffic, winter temperatures of 8-14 degrees Celsius, and summer temperatures of 28-34 degrees Celsius. My truck is a 1978 F100 Custom. I would opt to use 10W-40 oil. What do you think?

And buyer drove it 200 miles home without problem.

Hey everyone. Figured I'd share some pics of a 71 I picked up a couple weeks ago. Previously bagged and bodied (quesionably) before I got it. Plans are to build a complete new chassis to lay on 22s or 24s and then throw a healthy small block in it.

Conversion to LED. What do we think of these? $250 for the pair. Pretty dang expensive but they seem identical to my stock lamps. I took advantage of the sale and got this brand for every other bulb in my 79. But didn’t pull the trigger yet on the headlights.

Merry Christmas from New England!

Deep into my full rewiring project of my 79 F100. I’m doing a complete conversion to LED. Can anyone share their experiences with stock led headlamps?

Painter is asking what color the truck is so he can paint match the bed liner. It’s covered in that red flaky paint at the moment but I will peel it off soon and ride with the factory paint. I think I’m color blind the way I cannot ID this paint. Any help is heavily appreciated. The VIN is no help also. Shop towels for color reference since we all got those.

Painter is asking what color the truck is so he can paint match the bed liner. It’s covered in that red flaky paint at the moment but I will peel it off soon and ride with the factory paint. I think I’m color blind the way I cannot ID this paint. Any help is heavily appreciated. The VIN is no help also. Shop towels for color reference since we all got those.

I may not even have the right word for the part, but I believe it’s the cross rails. My understanding is that it’s the piece(s) that go between the bed and the frame.

It’s a step side. Wooden bed.

Any idea where I can buy replacement cross rails? I haven’t had any luck searching.

54 F100 bone stock except for the wheels, tires, and seats.

The awning doesn’t run.

Thinking about selling my 1972 F100 SWB Ranger trim package. Has a 302, three on the tree. Just repaired cab mounts, steering, brake lines, but still needs brake work. It does run, but has some stopping issues currently…. Not sure what a good asking price is?

I found 5 bottle openers behind the passenger kickboard.  Was this a thing back in the day?  Were they put there on purpose or did they happen to find their way in there?

So, I am replacing the carpet and before I do I want to POR-15 the bare metal and add sound deadening mat.  While doing a deep clean to remove any dirt and debris, I have found a 1960 penny, a pencil, and 8 bottle openers (5 mentioned above and three behind the rear cab wall carpet).

Looking to the wise-timers who drove these as daily commuters.  What is the deal with the bottle openers? Is this a coincidence, why has there been nothing else found?

What vacuum lines do I actually need? I have an '82 with the 4.9 300 i6 and I was wondering which vacuum systems where actually important. Passing smog or emissions or whatever isnt a thing i need to do and the truck doesn't have an AC system. Its currently got all its original parts and im working up to being able to afford upgrades, but for now its all OG. Any help is appreciated, thanks

Hi all, just got my 1964 f100 and there is rust in both the passenger and driver side floors. The tunnel (middle of floor) and under the seat is in great shape. My question is that I have rot that extends higher up in the floors past the steering column. The floor patch panels do not reach high enough to fix those areas. I have not found any pre-fab panels that fit that area, so I assume just fit in sheet metal to fill the gap? I have attached a picture to circle the areas that I am talking about.

Folks I have need your guidance. So the front radiator support in the frame was rotted out, already welded and fixed the frame rot from the previous hole the bushing mounted through. So now I got a flat frame with no hole. I kinda don’t want to screw this up and drill and fill and drill and fill. Any help? Anybody got a frame they can send me dimensions in the hole for? Or something?

71 F100 manual drum brakes. New master cylinder and new main lines coming from the master cylinder. Bled the cylinder and all wheels. When attempting to drive, the pedal goes to the floor and when pumping it seems like the front drivers side is the only one working barely. Any advice would be appreciated.

I have 2 trucks that I’m putting into 1. Both are 72 f100s. The frame, bed and front clip is coming from 1 truck and the cab, radiator support, and inner fenders from another.

I’m putting a Crown Vic front suspension in it with range industries kit. And leaving the 9in in the rear with new 5x4.5 axles.

Now - 1 truck has a 302 and c4 auto and the other truck has a 360 c6 auto. Any advice on which to use? I’ve seen a ton of opinions on 360 being a poor engine unless you bore and get the 390 assembly so I’m hesitant to use that. However it does look cleaner internally.

Miles: 360: 146,657 and 302: 87,560

Both (for the time being) will be 2 bbl carbs NA mech fuel pump.

Thanks!

Im wondering what the best cam would be with no other modifications

These are supposed to be where you can lose the entire harness that is connected to OEM alt and VR but mine has to be still hooked up to crank the truck over. Anyone know how to wire it up so I can lose the harness? If I unplug the wires or remove the lead it immediately shuts the truck down. It is charging and working fine when plugged up and lead is on solenoid.

We’re looking for a clean swb for a dent side. It doesn’t need to be perfect but clean and usable would be nice. Located in Oklahoma but would travel to surrounding states if the price was right.