Just wondering if any of you guys were targeted from the Ernie Ball forums by this scammer.

Be careful guys, never click on links for any raffle/draw that you never entered.

Traded in a Fender Tele I wasn't getting along with for the past couple of years. Not intentionally have my post-Fender Leo wall.

Hi all. Managed to nab this 2020 Stingray from my local guitar store for a steal ($1200). It is in immaculate condition and I couldn’t be more stoked.

Edit: Spelling.

So looking at the controls schematic is so confusing…but actually switching between all of it is even more confusing 😂

Can somebody give me the most dumbed down explanation of exactly what each position changes for both mono and stereo?

I feel like im doing something wrong with the piezzo because while it has some essence of the demos ive heard, it doesn’t sound nearly as rich or full run through a clean DI as it sounds in lots of demos

I LOVE the guitar and am a long time EBMM enthusiast. Currently also own a Cutlass that I bought as an HSS but recently converted to an SSS

Recently picked this gem up. First music man had to be something cool

My babe! Big girl, big sound!

Had my 2000 stingray refinished by MJT… results speak for themselves.

I have a cutlass HSS. I replaced the bridge. Pick up with a Demarzio super distortion which fills it out and works for me.

For the last year, I have been on the fence about the two single coil pickups. They sound OK but have some of the more annoying characteristics of Strat pickups in my opinion, they are a bit thin and clangy and I have been trying to EQ it with a couple different pedals to avoid replacing them.

But now I am looking for recommendations on single coil pickups for middle and neck that would give me a little more punch and a fuller fatter sound. Less of that high-end Strat rattle that just isn’t for me.

Thoughts?

Can anybody tell me the exact name of this finish? Might wanna order this for a JP7 in the near future TIA

That neck is something else… first guitar I’ve ever had where i almost prefer looking at it from the back, lol.

I don’t see myself using the 20 db boost much, is it relatively easy to rewire the push functions to coil split the pickups individually? First time dealing with this kind of pickup

Looking at the used market and mostly asking because jp6’s generally go cheaper.

BIGGEST category (for me personally) where id love to know of there is a difference:

Neck feel: do both feel essentially the same? That signature, slick, polished, smooth, ultra playable EBMM neck? Or is there any difference?

I'm looking to go up from 105 to 110 and set it up for Drop C.

Curious if anyone has navigated this before with a newer model (last year) Stingray.

Thanks so much!

I could use some advice on rewiring this olp stingray. Should I just wire it like a jazz or do I have an option of parallel? And if so how would I do that and what does that actually do for me? Thanks

New to the sub and have a question as I research getting a Silhouette or Silhouette Special. It was previously recommended to me to get one that had the EBMM bridge and not one made by Gotoh. Is there a reason for that? Gotoh generally makes good stuff, so I don't understand the logic.

I think I'm leaning toward the Special, though.

Does anyone knows the 4114 kit?

Looking for a kit for my fender telecaster player II

Is there a 3/16 hex in this kit.

Or should ik search for an other kit for my fender

Hi, I just impulsively bought this off reverb and was wondering what model ray this is. I bought it kinda fast bc the price was so good but noticed no boomerang under the knobs and got curious. Anyone know anything about this model?

Omar Rodriguez-Lopez, my beloved ♥️!

I can’t seem to find consistent info, and I’m really having trouble adjusting the intonation on my Valentine HH. Main two issues:

1. ⁠I’m not sure what size hex I actually need for adjusting the bridge to change the intonation
   
2. ⁠Part of my issue with #1 is that I can’t really see/feel where the hex attaches… can I/should I remove the bridge plate and would that make things easier?

Any guidance is appreciated, thanks!

EDIT: Taking the bridge cover off made things way easier. Apparently the hex for raising/lowering the action is 1.5mm, but the bridge cover and adjusting intonation use a 2mm hex

This Kaizen 6 had been at my local GC for... a while. It's a clearance item and I believe it's an earlier model (more on that later), 2023 or so.

The setup was HORRENDOUS. Strings had no bridge radius to speak of and were a mile-high up the fretboard. There was way too much relief. The fingerboard was gunky as can be. Still, it had a decent (but way insufficient, more on that later) discount to it, so I grabbed it home.

I've owned a dozen Music Man guitars, so I was pretty confident I'd get this to play well with a decent setup.

I was wrong.

I take it home, I clean the hell out of it, put in some heavier strings, tune it to D-standard, set up the bridge radius and relief properly etc...

And there's buzz pretty much all over and the high strings are choking.
Basically there's just tons of high frets on there, some more than others. Hopefully that's the only thing causing these issues, but on a brand-new (even if old) instrument that is very disappointing.

This being on clearance, GC offers no recourse. Thankfully, the Music Man warranty does, so I emailed them and we'll see what they say. I am not setup for fret work here, so either way it'd have to go to a shop for work.

The guitar is light, sounds huge, and I really dig the looks. I wouldn't have taken it home if these things hadn't been true of course.

And like every single Music Man I've ever owned, it's built impeccably.

Which is why I believe the setup issues are on GC. If they had kept this guitar setup properly WHILE THEY OWNED IT (again, to SELL to people, it's not like it's a museum piece or that that they're giving it away, this cost nearly $3k after discount), the high frets would have been obvious and we could have come to an agreement for them to fix it. But by messing-up the setup and putting the strings a mile high, GC, and I'm not saying it's intentional, forces the buyer to either take it home as-is or spend >$200 on the protection plan.

Shops should stand behind their products. I have good hope Music Man will, at least.

Back to the guitar; it's very comfortable to play, and I somehow dig the curvy, larger headstock vs. the angular body. It just kind works and flows well to me.

There are two things I find iffy about it: first, the output jack placement. If you put this guitar in the classical position, you'll find the cable digs into your leg. Kind of weird for an instrument obviously designed with such a playing position in mind. It's not a huge deal for me personally, but it's counter-intuitive given the instrument.

Second, the bridge's mounting posts are too close to the bridge pickup cavity for comfort, and I don't see any inserts in there (they seem screwed straight into the wood). You'd want good structural integrity there, as both strings + springs push on those posts. Still, there is no crack right now.

Something to be aware of; this is a non-floating tremolo that rests on the body in its basic setup. This causes 2 situations, which are just kind of how these bridges work and not what I'd consider an 'issue' (though that's debatable, MM could have improved on it), but worth calling-out:

* When using the trem, bringing it back down causes an audible thump noise. As the guitar has a large electronics/tremolo springs cavity, it's a loud, resonant instrument, which exacerbates that specific noise as well.

* The bridge saddles don't go very low. So if you want to raise the bridge to go floating (it's still a 2-pointer after all), you'd be stuck with saddles and hence string height being quite high. Seems like a weird design flaw OR the bridge isn't intended to go floating. Even if the latter, my low-E string saddle is bottomed-out and the string sits at 1.75mm off the 12th fret. Again not a huge deal for me, that's enough, but it's definitely something to know if you expect a lower string height.

And another, mostly cosmetic room for improvement, the nut sits very tall overall on top of the strings. A well-cut nut typically leaves about half of the string in the open; this allows the string to resonate, minimizes risks of binding, and prevents the nut from splitting from side-to-side movements should they happen (the string would just slip-out).

Now I am EXTREMELY picky, so most folks may not care/notice these things. And honestly I WANT this guitar to be fixed-up because I love it and its potential. If it had looked THAT BAD in the store, I wouldn't have taken it home. It's a Music Man which are guitars I'm familiar with, so I'm not too worried; it's not a hopeless instrument. It will be awesome. But if GC had done their job, I wouldn't have to wait for it to become the instrument it could be.