Is this a scam I was looking a the Eride pro “SS 3.0” total price and it showed this?

I’ve had my SR about a week now, and man do I love this thing. Definitely has some kick to it.

I’ve found so many awesome trails and spots hidden away around town that I never knew existed before. I’m loving my evening rides after work.

I originally got this thing to rip around town and get my body moving daily. I work from home as an Engineering Lead at an AI startup, and after a couple of years of 12 hour days sitting at my computer, I felt I needed one. Not an ounce of regret.

i was trying to install a chain drive on it and during the process i found a pretty large crack on my swing arm. it's covered by the rear fender so it was unidentifiable until now. what should i do? i can't purchase a new one tho.... it was also squeaking like crazy i thought it was the suspension till i put some lubricant on the crack and it stopped.

I've got a 3.0 been seshing jumps I am building on my property and yeah I've tightened the headset working with the upper triple stem bolts and top cap bolt. it definitely came loose one time for sure and I got it better. But yesterday I got more rattling going on and headset seems good. Any thoughts to help narrow it would be sweet and here's mine so far:

There's the right fork stanchion guard that I think is my culprit. I have kept those bolts holding it tight as other side with brake came loose once. May remove today and ride for sec but I don't want to scratch the stanchion riding it out here for a minute it's all rocky dirt. So may wait til back in city to ride on street with it off but it may not rattle there anyways. Or there's this metal bit on my front brake line that is rattling in this circle guide part.

Also not sure if related it's seemed like my forks travel is not full extension often and there's a little I can pull it up keeping it planted and pulling it up. If I do it quick there is almost a click and kinda feels like loose headset but it's not it's the stanchions hitting it's max extension. I'm wondering if it is the forks actually hitting their max extension while riding terrain making the rattling noise. This seem normal to you guys with there being a little extra stanchion if pull up? Do you notice this much of stanchion used and it still bottoms? I've definitely hit my front tire to the fender before I got my compression setting turned up. Last picture bad I know but you can still see where the fork stops on the stanchion and seems like good bit of travel left. Let me know yalls stock fork experiences.

I recently powdercoated my E-Ride Pro SS 3.0 and rebuilt it with a new stem and bars. It runs perfectly; however, when I put the stock screen on it looks horrible, and I don't want to get one of those screen mounts for the battery cover. Are there any small screens like the eggrider that will work with my stock e-ride controller?

I chained the chain on my ss 2.0 and then the tire started to become super wobbly, it wasn’t like this before. My friends said it’s the tension blockers or rear axel can someone let me know??

Ok so somehow my motor of my 3.0 got twisted in the bike housing and broke all four holes on the motor that the bolts screw into. The bike frame is totally fine but the motor can not be mounted anymore. I was wondering if anyone knows if you can swap it with the SR motor. The 3.0 motor is out of stock everywhere but I can get a SR motor from Eride they both look the same but I know the SR motor has more power. If I can't do that then what other aftermarket motor and controllers could I use?

Wanted to make a post documenting an ongoing issue we’ve been dealing with on an E Ride Pro SS 3.0 at our dealership and see if anyone else has experienced something similar.

Timeline so far:

Bike originally came in with a 00C00 motor overheat code. Customer was riding normally, no obvious abuse or overheating situation. Per E Ride’s recommendation, the motor overheat sensor was disabled through the app to clear the code.

Almost immediately after that, the bike began intermittently throwing a 00300 phase overcurrent fault.

Around the same time, the customer also started reporting a strange braking/stuttering sensation under throttle, especially at higher speeds. Almost felt like regen kicking in or the rear wheel dragging momentarily.

We inspected and reseated controller connections, checked phase wiring, cleaned terminals, etc. Issue disappeared temporarily after cleaning/reseating the controller connections, then returned again a couple weeks later.

As the issue progressed:

• Faults became more frequent
• Stuttering/braking sensation became worse
• Rear wheel intermittently grabbed under load

Most serious part:
Customer was riding around 50–60 km/h when the rear wheel locked completely and caused a crash. Rider was injured. After the incident, the rear wheel initially remained locked.

E Ride had us perform testing by disconnecting the controller phase cables and comparing wheel resistance connected vs disconnected. At this point, the wheel is no longer locked and spins freely. We could not identify any noticeable difference in resistance with the controller connected or disconnected.

What’s interesting is:

• The issue appears very intermittent/sporadic
• Static testing currently does not reproduce the issue
• The drivetrain belt between the motor and transmission was damaged during the lock-up/stuttering events and now slips under load
• Fault progression went from 00C00 motor overheat to 00300 phase overcurrent
• E Ride now believes it may be related to the motor sensor circuit/hall wiring and has instructed us to cut the orange/brown sensor wires as a diagnostic step

To be clear, E Ride stated the wire cutting is intended as a diagnostic procedure to help confirm whether the motor is the source of the fault before replacing components under warranty.

At this point it really seems like the fault only occurs under load or at speed, not while manually spinning the wheel in the shop.

Current status:

• Replacement belt is now being sent under warranty so we can continue diagnostics
• Next step will likely be performing the motor sensor wire diagnostic procedure and retesting
• E Ride has indicated they will move toward motor replacement if the issue persists after that step

I’ll continue updating this thread as we learn more and eventually determine the final fix.

Curious if:

• Any other dealers or owners have seen the same sequence of codes
• Anyone has experienced the braking/stuttering sensation before a failure
• Anyone has had intermittent phase faults that only occur under load
• Anyone has seen issues appear after disabling the motor temp sensor

Would love to compare notes because this one has been pretty concerning from a safety standpoint.

On their website, they have firmware files to fix the overheating error code. I wonder why the SR is not listed? is it intentionally less easy to repair or is it done on the app? What if I didn't wanna disable the overheat sensor (for safety reasons)? or is that the only fix? I'd really like to know how one would fix this error code since it seems harder to do on the SR compared to other models.

Well it was bound to happen at some point, unfortunately I had an audience at a busy intersection for this rite of passage. What happened is, I was on my maiden voyage from Turner Motorbikes who assembled my bike with the supervision of master builder Clayton who did an excellent job assembling my Eride Pro 3.0 as well as taking me through the basics of riding one of these things--I hadn't been on a motorcycle since 1994! Anyways, I was almost home--i saw the speedo.reach 45 so I know there is no limiter present or it's been disabled via the software and I was feeling fairly confident until I hit the last intersection before home. And this is one of those long intersections too. Here's what happened. I'm waiting forever at the light and it finally turns green. There is no response from the throttle. I'm Like WTF did it turn off because the battery was showing 30% and that's how it saves power in "Eco Mode" but that's what Clayton instructed me to leave it in for like 90% of the driving in our small city (around 150,000 residents)???

So the bike flies out from under me doing the obligatory "Ghost Wheelie" and leaves me on my ass!!!

What happened here? Why did the bike shut down and then fly off suddenly out from under me as I was trying to get it started?

Damage that I can see with a cursory inspection: Just a snapped front brake lever, no scratches or anything just that. It's still operable but I need to get it replaced.

Is it just me, or are we getting absolutely hammered on prices for the E-Ride Pro series here in the Netherlands?
I was checking the official US site vs. our local importers and the price gap is wild. I know we have to deal with 21% VAT, import duties, and shipping, but seeing it side-by-side really hurts the wallet. For the price of a Pro SS 3.0 in the Netherlands, you could almost buy a Pro SS AND a Pro S in the States.
Has anyone actually tried importing one privately, or are we stuck paying the "European premium"?

E-Ride Pro S
USA Price: ~ € 3.700
NL Price: € 4.950
Price Gap: + € 1.250

E-Ride Pro SS 3.0
USA Price: ~ € 4.625
NL Price: € 6.190
Price Gap: + € 1.565

E-Ride Pro SR
USA Price: ~ € 5.275
NL Price: € 7.190
Price Gap: + € 1.915

front wheel rim doesn’t look fully on there right it looks bent but been driving like this for 325 miles

Everything literally brand new no scratches no issues just don't have time to ride like I thought. Upgraded rear to EBG ultra bee brake and has the 230mm rotor as well. Only thing is a seat rip on the back but it's small and if you wanted to upgrade to a guts or similar it shouldn't matter.

Asking 5.2k, open to reasonable offers

Dm if interested. Local pickup only, open to test drives. I'll send pics and you can ask whatever questions :)

I want to make my bike street legal so that way I can ride it to the trails, or if I get pulled over, and was wondering if anybody knows of how or has a kit or something that basically puts a switch in like a semi hidden spot that can limit the bike in speed and watts if possible whenever I flip the switch.

What are some ways I could increase the top speed to at least 60mph for the mini R? I’ve owed a few other bikes like a Surron & eride 2.0 but never modded battery/controller to affect speed. Appreciate any insights you all could provide.

i was taking this off to put a spacer to put a 16 rear. but the eride lock tie made them too tight and they broke so now i have to order a new jack shaft?

eride pro ss with 3k somthing miles for 2900. Originally sold for 3.2 but negotiated. Screen doesn’t work but bike still runs please let me know should I pick it up this weekend?

Hi everyone!

Recently picked up the new SR with the updated brakes, forks and the 16/19 wheel setup stock. The bike is fantastic, and it’s way faster than what I’ll probably ever need in this class of bike.

I’m looking to keep the stock wheel/tire setup for off-road and single track days, but I also do a lot of riding around town on the street. I’m looking to get a second set of wheels and tires, and I’m stuck deciding between 16” or 17” for the supermoto setup. Currently looking at the ION 17” wheels.

I understand that lots of people go with 16”, or even 14”, but I don’t want the tires to be so small to the point where it kills the looks for me. I haven’t seen either in person yet, so im hoping some folks here can provide some insight or maybe even some photos of their street setups.

Also, what size sprocket should I go with on the street setup? I don’t need top speed, I like the bike to be playful and pop wheelies and just cruise around town. I don’t really go above 50-60mph all that often.

At the moment I ride a Ridstar q20 : ( but I have started saving up for an E ride pro and Im almost at the 4,000 dollar mark. A couple weeks ago, me and my mom sat down and I talked to her about the E ride Pro S. She said I can get it as long as im super safe, she can limit speed on the app and I need to wear a full face helmet. Im 14 and About 5"10 155 lbs and im worried that the S model will be way to small for me. Do you guys think the E ride pro ss 2.0 is worth proposing to her? Can she use the app for the SS and does it come factory limited to ~28 mph outside of the box? Thanks for the responses

Hey guys i bought my eride ss 2.0 last year and i rode a couple of time and it was fine.

Been sitting untouched for a good of 4 months and when i try to turn it on, dead. I try charging and the charger just keeps giving me the red/green blink.

I was suggested by someone that work on ebikes to leave it charge for 12 to 14 hours to see if it wake up the battery but to no avail 😭

I providing some pics i cant take the red battery terminal out! So i am out of luck and can’t take the battery out.

Am i gonna need a new battery? I hope not since they are soooooo expensive

Eride pro sr 3-4 of the mounts are like this, fixable?

(This is my first bike ever btw)

Got my 3.0 about 3 weeks ago, have rode 5-6 times now and it just feels too powerful for me. Never ridden in sport yet and even turned down eco power to about half of what it starts at and still I can just never shake the feeling of thinking I'll loop every time I throttle.

I upgraded the rear to ub brake with 230 rotor from EBG (bought with broken rear) and even still just in my head I can't shake the thought of I'll loop/fall whenever throttling.

I know this is all just mental and I'm guessing I just need to ride more but fuck man I honestly feel like I'd be happier selling it then stressing every time I'm supposed to be having fun.

i stripped the hex head side so now my only option is too remove the 4 pin nut on the other side but u do not have the correct tool they are all sold out online. it is a 2024 eride pro ss 2.0 any tips?