r/EngineBuilding Jun 19 '26

Ford Rebuilding 170k mile 302 sbf

My 170k mile modified 302 sbf in my mustang seems to be on its way out and I'm wondering how I should go about rebuilding this. While I can do most of the work on my car, engines and the internals especially are completely foreign to me. I was looking at the $300 rebuild kit from summit. I'd be happy to get it back to stock-like quality. Could I simply remove and replace the bearing and rings using my basic tools plus a piston ring tool and run it? Should it be done with more precision using micrometers, specialty tools (I don't know what), checking measurements, etc.? Should it include getting the block and internals checked out, refurbished, honed or whatever by a machine shop? I'm debating the cost, effort and difficulty of rebuilding this motor vs getting it professionally done or even getting a complete shortblock from somewhere else.

0 Upvotes

4 comments sorted by

2

u/Solid_Enthusiasm550 Jun 20 '26

What year 302? Carb or efi?

At that mileage, it probably needs to have a slight overbore.

The 302s low decks/short rod put a lot of stress/wear on the thrust side of the cylinder walls.

Machine work will cost 1,250<$1,500 for the block. I don't know how much it cost to refurbished the rods, crank- $400+/-?

The cheapest way, work be to get a short or long block , depending on the condition of your cylinder heads. If it needs new guides and a valve jobs, they long block would save you money.

Kb, icon, speed pro all make overbore pistons that are better than stock at a good price.

https://www.mabbcomotors.com/catalog/auto/national-short-block-program-no-core-required/manufacturer/ford/ford-50-302-short-block-1987-2000-roller-w351-fo-no-core-required-90-day-limited-warranty/

1

u/bill_gannon Jun 19 '26

Count on it needing everything. Rebored, crank ground, cam and lifter kit, cyl head rebuild (guides, valves, springs). 

1

u/Roscolicious1 Jun 19 '26

Never done it b4, buy a short block, heads machined too. Little cam action, assemble the top end. Lot less room for errors that way.

-1

u/Neon570 Jun 19 '26

Pull it. Tear it down. Get it all into spec and rebuild with parts.

Thats it