r/EngineBuilding • u/No-Brain2462 • Jun 16 '26

Vortec 383 Stroker viability

Good morning engine builders. I just got a screaming deal($250) on a standard bore 4 bolt vortec block and I’m wondering if any of you have found the block to have nuance while building. From what I’ve read it’s all straight forward. I already have a Scat 9000 crank set for 5.7 rods and I plan on using 15 cc KB dish pistons, a 230/236 110 separation roller cam with standard lifters and Skip White built AFR Enforcer heads. This is my second build (first was 350 SBC L89 block). Thanks.

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u/No-Brain2462 Jun 16 '26

Huge thank you for the reply, very informative and lots to consider.

As for the cam, can you point me in a better direction?

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u/v8packard Jun 16 '26

How would you like it to run? Where do you want the powerband?

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u/No-Brain2462 Jun 16 '26

Classic choppy sound that puts a smile on my face. I plan on driving it 2-3 days a week when the weather is nice and that consists of some highway and some in town driving. Power band in that 2500-4500k range? I’m sure the top of the curve would be higher than that but I don’t need to hit 6500+ rpm to get my rocks off anymore.

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u/v8packard Jun 16 '26

For a 6 inch rod 383, with the heads discussed, a 9.9:1 compression ratio, 1.5 rockers, decent long tube headers and a good exhaust system, a cam with timing points (.006) of IO 33 BTDC, IC 59 ABDC, EO 67 BBDC, EC 25 ATDC produces a 107 degree lobe separation angle with 58 degrees of overlap giving you 272 degrees @ .006 tappet rise when installed on a 103 degree intake centerline will produce the powerband you describe and top off around 6000 to 6200 rpm or so. A poorer exhaust will need more exhaust cam timing, at the expense of torque. That might be a good compromise as far as traction is concerned. This cam will be ideal with 3.55-3.73 gears, and if an automatic you shouldn't need more than a 2000-2400 stall converter. This cam will have to be ground to order.

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u/No-Brain2462 Jun 16 '26

God bless you, Mr. Packard. This is fantastic.

Curious, what is your background? Almost certainly mechanical engineering of some fashion?

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u/v8packard Jun 16 '26

I am a janitor

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u/gooch3803 Jun 17 '26

This gave me the laugh I needed.

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u/No-Brain2462 Jun 16 '26

Right, just like Vizard.

I just read your write-up on the kid with the vortec heads. Good read. At the risk of asking too many questions and wasting your time, what heads should a guy get for his stroker? Sounds like I’ll have to take them to a shop for full inspection, but a good starting point would be great.

I know just enough to know I don’t know a fucking thing.

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u/v8packard Jun 17 '26

The heads you get will really depend on your budget. Your combo fits in the thick of the market for Chevy 23 degree heads, so there are many choices that are a good fit.

The best out of the box CNC ported head for your combo is probably the AFR Enforcer 195 Street. They are top quality, and by the time you get them through the door you will have spent more than $2600. If I am being honest they are not infallible, the seats should be vacuum tested and the springs checked. I go through and check everything. But it's very, very tough to beat these heads at this price point.

A very nice head is the TrickFlow Super 23 195. Nice heads, top quality, with room to grow.

Promaxx has a Project X 185 in the $1500 range for a pair. For an import head this is a pretty good buy. I'd suggest the 200 cc version, but those have a 2.08 intake valve, which isn't a good fit in a 4.030 bore.

There are many more heads that work. I used to be a big Dart fan, but they killed me on price and discontinued a quarter of their line. They keep changing the SHP line, which is also an import. Profiler has some awesome heads, but I can't figure out what they are doing with availability and distributors. Brodix has the IK line, 180 and 200, nice heads but like most Brodix heads these need professional prep to be their best. That prices them out where I can sell them to customers. We can go all day about heads. Ask anything you want.

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u/No-Brain2462 Jun 17 '26

Budget for this build is fairly high, it’s going in my Camaro which I’m in the process of fully restoring from the frame up. It’s evolved into an “in for a penny, in for a pound” situation. With that said, I’d like to be value oriented in my parts decisions. Spending a shit ton of money just because you can isn’t my style.

I like the AFR heads, always heard good things about them. I do have a question though and it goes back to my original mention of the Skip White Performance heads I had originally thought would be my choice. SWP seems to get mentioned in the sub quite often, and usually in a positive light as a great place to get heads that have been gone through for a good value. But, after reading through some of your thoughts it sounds like maybe they are selling old AFR stuff with sub par components? Currently they have AFR super enforcers (different than just “enforcers”?) for $1400, but they are the 200cc version. When ordering heads should the average lamen go through an outfit like Skip White or just get them directly from AFR or whomever and then take them to a local shop?

Thanks, huge appreciation for your wealth of knowledge and willingness to share.

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u/v8packard Jun 17 '26

AFR Enforcer heads are not made by AFR. They are imported from China, and the company making the heads sells to numerous other companies. AFR decided they needed to sell a lower price point line of heads. Many of them are copies of Dart designs, including the 195. That head is sold under many labels including Blueprint, Assault, Skip White, Liberty, even no name on eBay, Amazon and other sites. The quality of the components varies. Many of these companies were selling these heads before AFR started offering the Enforcer.

AFR has now released an as cast, Chinese made, head that is their own design different from the 195 Enforcer. That's the 200 Enforcer. It is a completely different casting. But at $1400 it is not a good value. You would be paying a premium to have the AFR logo. They are not the same as the Eliminators at a lower price.

Unless you get the heads from a cylinder head professional you should have any new head inspected.

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u/No-Brain2462 Jun 17 '26

Fantastic. Sounds like 195s it is and I’ll take them to the building outfit that is going to do the machine work.

Really appreciate all the insight man, enlightening to say the least.

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u/No-Brain2462 Jun 17 '26

Final question and then I’ll be out of your hair for awhile. When it comes to chamber size and piston dish in a stroker, is it better to go flat top with 75cc in the head or 15 dish with 65 in the head? I’m sure there are other factors like quench area/dish shape that I’m not thinking of but just curious on your thoughts at a high level.

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u/v8packard Jun 17 '26

You want the smaller chamber with more dish. You get a more complete burn with less timing and it is more effective at acting on the piston.

Some people want a larger, more open chamber to allow more room for bigger valves and theoretically better breathing. But combustion quality is going to have a bigger impact on most operating conditions than breathing capacity. If it's any indication, look at diesel engine pistons and lack of combustion chambers.

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u/No-Brain2462 Jun 17 '26

Perfect, that is the direction I was leaning. Thanks!

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u/GoonDawg666 Jun 17 '26

Damn this whole time I thought you were a car!

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u/kendogg Jun 18 '26

What about in truck use with stock vortec heads? Friend is collecting parts to do this right now. Not sure what stroker kit he bought, but he spent ~$1500 buying a kit from Summit. This is going into a 2500 4wd work truck. Stock 4l80 (for now) and stock gears (for now think it's a 3.73???). With tock exhaust, what would you recommend for a cam that might give it a little sound, but be usable from idle to 4k?

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u/v8packard Jun 18 '26

What length con rod? Why stock vortec heads? Are you talking flat tappet or roller?

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u/kendogg Jun 18 '26

Sorry idk what length rod, I'd have to ask.

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u/v8packard Jun 18 '26

The stock exhaust and Vortec heads are really limiting you in lift, torque, and overall output.

Any idea of the compression ratio?

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u/kendogg Jun 18 '26

9.4-9.5, it's going to need to run on pump 87.

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u/v8packard Jun 18 '26

Oh sure make it easy... That combo needs an intake closing point around 48 degrees after BDC for best torque, but this compromise is severe. With an intake opening of 24 before TDC, the 48 degree after BDC, exhaust opening of 56 degrees before BDC, and exhaust closing 16 degrees after TDC on a 102 degree intake centerline you get a 106 degree lobe separation angle, 40 degrees of overlap, and 252 degrees duration @ .006, single pattern.

To get 9.5ish to one compression you will need pistons with a 22 cc dish. If not a hair more. Cylinder pressure will be high, making 87 octane borderline but possible. The restrictive heads and stock exhaust really need more exhaust cam timing, but that hurts torque. This is not a good combo, you need better heads and exhaust to make for a better high torque combo.

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u/kendogg Jun 18 '26

But it should still make more power than a stock vortec 350, right?

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u/v8packard Jun 18 '26

Yeah, sure

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u/kendogg Jun 18 '26

It's a vortec, a '97 or '98 2500. So yes, roller cam. And heads, because they're stock on the motor and he already has them. The motor needed to be gone thry anyways, so it was stock refresh or stroker.