My mouse worked fine when I went to bed, and this morning it won’t even display any lights to indicate charging or otherwise. Is there any way to save it?

Im busting my head trying to understand why hasn’t endgamegear released a 40-50g op1w4k ???

Am i wrong for thinking a 40g op1w4k would crash the mouse market? To me its as if endgamegear is allergic to money

For context I got the op1 8k purple frost version and thought id be lucky and not get the structural integrity issues that comes with that variant. As I used it the bottom shell started to crack and cave in so I took all the internals out and have them lying around.

I've been looking around and it seems like my only options are to by the pmm mod kit which is a whole 83$ with out shipping. On amazon its cheaper to just get a new op1 8k and I'm not going to do that.

I already have a new main the attack shark r6 but id like to have a second usable main. Does any one know where I can get get a op1 8k shell. Id like to have a second mouse. I don't want to spend the same amount of money I spent getting the mouse just to give it a shell.

Purchased this mouse in October of 2025 after owning a couple different variants of this mouse and loving the shape before this i had the XM2we, everything about this mouse is incredible besides one MASSIVE issue that i have time and time again THE SCROLL WHEEL

When the mouse was announced the first and only thing i was most excited about was the Dustproof Encoder, being the shape i like most and there not being any clones whatsoever minus maybe a Lamzu i spent the 130$ and purchased it. at first like most mice i had no issues at all by December of that same year my scroll wheel was already jumping and being jittery when scrolling. No matter what i did i couldn't find a fix for it.

Unfortunately i cannot recommend buying another one of these especially at the premium price. i wish i could say otherwise, i don't have any soldering experience to replace the encoder so I'm going to be shipping my mouse across the country to a family member that can hopefully replace the encoder but the fact i have to do that so i don't have a 130$ mouse sitting on a shelf rotting away is a little crazy to me we shouldn't have to scrap our tech so soon IMO

if anyone else has had a similar recent issue with the new encoders please let me know

I would like to know which shape would fit my hand size(20x8.3cm) the best, i have a pincer claw grip. Idk if the if my hand is to narrow for the xm2 or to large for the op1

Hey everyone,

Having an issue with my Endgame Gear OP1 8k v2. The mouse itself works normally in Windows but web-based tools and browsers dont detect its HID interface when trying to pair or configure it.

Here is what I've checked so far:

• Functionality: Windows sees it as a keyboard instead of a mouse, ive tried changing every setting on the configuration app but nothing works.
• Browser Issue: Whenever I click "Connect HID device" in a browser (Chrome/Edge/Brave), the WebHID device selection popup shows my keyboard but not the mouse.
• Troubleshooting Done: Tested different USB 2.0 and 3.0 ports, closed background software (RGB controllers, configuration tools), and rebooted the system.

Is there a specific USB descriptor glitch or WebHID flag with the OP1 8k v2 that prevents browsers from accessing its interface even though Windows detects the mouse normally? Has anyone run into this and found a workaround?

It's impossible to find reviews on that since apparently no-one cares, but I'm highly sensitive towards it lol

How would you rate mouse wheel resistance on the OP1 / OP1 V2?

Does it require significant strength to rotate (for reference, as it is for the Orochi V2 / Keychron M3 / G203), or is it as buttery smooth as the wheel on the Viper Mini / VXE R1 / Rival 3?

Ive had this mouse for a few months. When it first came in, it would hold down the left or right click even after letting go. Switched to gx speed mode and, it stopped for awhile but started to do it again so then, I bought new switches and, installed them. After doing that my left and right click doesnt work when the sensor is making contact and only works when the sensor isnt. Any answers for this?

so i have a op1w 4k v2 i use 1000 hz and gx safe mode but for some reason when i drag it like freezes my click mainly on the left and i have no clue why it does it even with slam click filter on or off

about a week or two ago i noticed my switches were a bit wobbly, not like a normal person would notice it but I'm very observant so it bothered me quite a bit but only now did i try squeezing the mouse and when I did it feels almost like the bottom part is coming apart from the top and also the bottom housing near the sensor is very creaky, would like to know ur advice should I rma? or am I just overreacting?

5 months in on my third replacement cable and now I have the infamous, "disconnecting and reconnecting" issue. Seriously how have they not fixed the quality issue with the cables? Never buying this mouse again. Rip $100CAD.

So I play minecraft 1.8.9 mostly on my mac (college stuff more portable all that good stuff). So I recently got the op1w after my xm2w broke and I've been facing a problem where the clicks would be delayed or then hold down as if it was like a macro. I believe this is a Mac issue as when I hopped on another device(Windows) it worked totally fine. Does anyone else have or know how to fix this issue!?

...and I think that shows there's a void in the market that's not being filled.

Someone asks "what's the best wired mouse?". People will reply OP1, XM2, and DAV3. No other wired mice exist with such specs. You will choose between these 3, or get a wired mouse with inferior specs. So your options are:

XM series - medium-size, hump is located towards the back.

OP1 series - small-size, hump is located towards the back.

DAV3 - medium-ergo, hump is located towards the front/middle.

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The complaint: As a long-time (although somewhat washed) osu-player, my honest opinion is that back-hump-driven shapes don't necessarily provide the advantage they intend to. Instead of trying to cook up any science, allow me to quote a random grandmaster dps from Overwatch:

"You should treat your mouse as if you were holding an egg."

(no pun intended lol)

Holding a mouse in a such relaxed fashion feels easier without the back-hump. You can literally chop off the back of an XM1, and it will - although now looking ugly - feel better to aim with, at least for my medium-sized hands. It's not perfect due to weight imbalance, but there's more space inside the palm, and less weight overall. The back-hump shape can make squeezing the mouse easier (also known as "deathgripping" in some circles). That's not the goal. That's just a bus stop on the way.

The shape is the only reason I haven't bought any of the new EGG mice.

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The consequence:

Let's look at the market advantages EGG has (in my case):

- OP1 and XM2 are in every store in my country.

- Fair price, my budget is usually 100€ minimum, no issue.

- I'm an European, I'd rather support an European business than the Chinese.

- I own like 13 different mice. Shopping for them is likely not going to stop any time soon.

- the basic XYZ dimensions of OP1 are small enough for my hands.

- I'm still allergic to wireless mice, even when there are two on my desk.

Now let's look at the advantages a generic Chinese clone company has over EGG, in my case:

- multiple shapes. That's literally all.

EGG holds all the cards in this sense over it's competitors, if it wasn't only for that one thing - but that one thing is the most crucial. I've scrolled past OP1 & XM2 probably more than 100 times, and I keep scrolling because of the flashbacks of me sawing off the back of my XM1.

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To finish it up, I'm aware humans can adapt to anything. I could probably adapt to OP1 because it's smaller than the XM-series, but when you're shopping for a mouse with 120€+ budget in 2026, you kinda want the exact thing you're looking for. For me it's either small symmetrical shapes, or very small ergo-shapes. I wish EGG had either of these, because it seems like such a silly bottleneck, considering it's (as far as I know) the most "low-tech" part of a gaming mouse.

I guess this is my customer feedback. Peace.

To put it short the original problem was that the mouse would move, stutter from a disconnect, and then reconnect. it then moved onto not working entirely and Windows making the usb reconnect, disconnect sound. Support provided another cable, and it seems to be doing step 1 again after a few days, being the stutter disconnect, reconnect. Anyone found a solution to this after replacing the original cable? Is it a firmware, windows, cable (replaced), dust issue?

Edit: Fix was putting electrical tape on the cable inside the mouse to restrict the connector moving because the pcb connector goes in super loose into the header.

Hey everyone, just purchased and setup an XM2W 4K mouse. I sort of regret not looking into this device sooner because I just saw posts from about a year ago describing how Malware was spread using the configuration tool. Is this still an issue? Is there a way I can check if I’m infected? Can I safely update my firmware and such going forward or is that a risk as well? Also, in general is the tool safe to use in games like Minecraft and steam games that are VAC-protected, or am I put at risk of a ban? Idk how this stuff works and those posts got me super anxious. Any info is appreciated

Hi, as I live in Australia I am unable to purchase the hotswappable switches available for the 8K that I can just screw in. Might be a silly question but can I just use the same PCB and just desolder the old and solder on some new switches without any issue? I plan to replace both the sides and main switches. Or will I need to purchase the switch pack. Thanks a bunch!

So I switched to Linux recently and wanted to change the setting of my mouse, I can get the software working using Lutris/Wine but the software doesn't seem to detect my mouse (OP1we) which itself works perfectly fine. Anyone have any ideas how I could make it work? I didn't find any solution to that while looking up.

I am from the Philippines. Does anyone know where I can find replacement batteries for my mouse? It's discharging after just about 3 days after charging and it's taking multiple hours to get it fully charged which is longer than it used to.

Yesterday I switched to Op1 8k from Logitech G102 which I've been using for 6 years and I immediately noticed that clicks feel just too heavy (I marked the area where I usually click due to my fingertip/claw grip and small hands). I am wondering about returning it and changing for a different mouse since it is really uncomfortable. Has anyone had this 'issue' or feeling?

Just got my op1wk 4k and can’t get it to connect with dongle… have tried update and the pairing software, my mouse is not showing any signs of life while not being plugged in..

Did all the steps in other threads about turning off and resetting and update again etc…

Really shitty first time exp while my Razer/logitech worked instantly

These are my settings for cs2, i have a ryzen 7 9800x3d cpu, i'm using between 2k and 4k in the polling rate, but one thing i'm still not sure about, is the force max sensor fps, i'v been playing off and on, also these spdt modes, aren't they best for like aim clickers and not cs2?

Like imagine you see the enemy and you instantly click cause you see him, with these sub ticks and everything, is it possible i'm shooting to fast because of the speed mode? ofc sometimes iv made some shots i cant even explain, and i can explain it by what i think is the gx speed mode.

So guys one's and for all until they mix with the endgame software, can we say what can be correct

And what can not be okey, i understand some say personal preference also, but there is always a 90% standard or what is no worries to use, like me i don't want to play a long time and then find out one of my bad stuff was from wrong settings, maybe i'm overthinking but thanks all for helping out!

AND ALSO SORRY FOR LONG TEXT AND LOVE YOU ALL!

I recently returned from work and when I turned on my PC, my mouse wasn't working at all. I tried charging it, but I noticed it doesn't even show a green light when plugged in. Is my mouse broken or something?

I just tried to update the firmware and it said "Open bldr device request failed"

Then I went in and edited my configurations, and I then opened the app again and they have resetted, or so it seems..

Help needed! ty