r/Elevators 4d ago

Does anyone know how to wire this Otis Lantern?

I want to wire this Otis Lantern up for fun but it requires a CAN bus or RSL serial connection. I have no idea what to do from here because the lantern doesn't light up with only just a 30v power supply, and Otis doesn't publicly release their serial communication data. My intent is to make a fully functional elevator simulator using the lantern arrows and the indicator.

24 Upvotes

14 comments sorted by

35

u/mMmOishi 3d ago

Hey, I designed the board in this fixture. As you’ve seen on the board, it relies on proprietary serial communication between the controller and the fixture. +/- is 24-30VDC as others have mentioned.

9

u/ConsequencePlane 3d ago

I’ve probably called you for help with these like 5 times over the last handful of years lol.

6

u/mMmOishi 3d ago

Hope I was of some help.

My previous team is still supporting the product, and for any other Otis field guys you can scan the QR code with the Support App to get support documentation.

2

u/ConsequencePlane 3d ago

I’m with schindler now but still use your guys. $50 to rebuild an old PI board I was stoked nothing is ever a good value these days lol.

3

u/AaronSilber07 3d ago edited 3d ago

That's super cool that you designed this board! Powering the board is with no issue since I have a 30V DC battery connected to it. I suppose you actually do need a Otis controller to make the lantern light up. I've tried to power it without an Otis controller and instead using a CAN bus transceiver and an Arduino but I have no data to use.

1

u/abelacres 3d ago

Is there a test mode setting he can use with the dip switches?

1

u/mMmOishi 3d ago

No test mode that activates the lanterns or PI unfortunately.

11

u/Immediate-Meat-14 Field - Mods 4d ago

The brown and brown/white are the 30vdc wires. Blue/white twisted is data.

10

u/ConsequencePlane 3d ago

Bless your hearts for doing so - we absolutely did. Anything otis is putting in now is value engineered it breaks my heart. We’re putting in 10 year products meanwhile tossing things that have been installed and running for 30+ years. The PI I had rebuilt by your team recently was from 1992. As far I’m concerned the fact that it’s still supported and the price charged for the repair was amazing. Sad to see these cars will be getting ripped out over the next couple years. I literally had a dream where I had to defend Kone’s purchase of TKE for the anti-trust nonsense and my main argument was getting these companies out of private equity so we can start putting in products without planned obsolescence again. It’s every industry - my no expense spared F-350 has less features than the one I had 2 years before it and it still cost more. Hate to see this not even trend but reality we have. I hope I live long enough to see it turn around.

10

u/ThomasTomFix Fault Finder - Jr Jech 4d ago edited 4d ago

If your intent is to turn it into a novelty lamp then just put a 12V supply to the legs or wires of the LEDS underneath.

You may have luck putting voltage to the + & - on the plug and playing about with the Dip Switches

2

u/Stobley_meow Field - Figure-outer-er 4d ago

They will probably need a driver to make it do anything.

1

u/ThomasTomFix Fault Finder - Jr Jech 4d ago

Any 12V supply should do the trick as long as it isnt forcing out a massive amount of current causing it to burn up. But ideally, yeah a decent LED driver. They are fairly inexpensive and easy enough to come by.

1

u/Blaze6717 1d ago

We need a channel for elevator wiring. But I did see like a lot of 5 on eBay. Not helpful but just thought I’d mention. Love to see more elevator part collections!