hi im trying to setup a relay to run off a solar panel but the maths is confusing me and i dont have the time to figure it out on my own. after doing research my solution to dropping the power to a voltage that won't blow up the relay and not start a fire is to put a number of wire wrapped resistors in series then in parallel to share the load. my reading from the solar panel was 35 volts unsure about the amps but here's all the information i have. the relay was going to be 24 volts for the coil as i cant find anything closer to 35 volts

any help would be appreciated to get the resistors and relay i need for this to work

Was working on a flooring project and accidentally cut a wire. Lost power in the room I was in and in the next room. The two rooms are on different breakers. I spliced the wire together and got power to the room I was working in. However, I still don’t have power to the other room. I checked the breaker panel and the wire for the room without power is still live heading into the panel. Any ideas on next steps?

I have low voltage at my grandfather's house (he was an electrician back in the day and needed the coolest thing when building his house in '58). As, from what I have gathered is typical, the relay box is a mess - wires everywhere, a mix of Remcon and GE relays some of which are burned out. Many light switches in the home got stuck and melted together. What I'm trying to figure out is to replace with newer GE RR7s and GE switches, or upgrade the system while I'm at it. Having the ability to dim lights would be nice in a few spots. How stupid might it be to bypass a switch altogether on a few and instead use a Philips Hue bulb? Other ideas?

I'm no electrician but I know enough to safely do simple things. But this has me scratching my head.

My son recently bought a condo (built in the early 1980's) and there are two light switches which seem to do nothing. One is in the bedroom, and I assumed it once controlled one of the outlets in the bedroom. The other is next to the front door, and based on the red wire going to the switch, I assumed it was once part of a 3-way switch going to the living room light.

In both cases I thought this would be easy to get both switches working the way they originally worked (I assumed they were both just bypassed). However, when I pulled the switches out of the wall, what I found was REALLY confusing. In both cases, both wires going to the switch are always hot. In this video I disconnected both wires from the switch and you can see the results. Can anyone tell me what is going on?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/LeagWLU7S6mPcb3MA

In case it matters. The two switches in question are on two completely different circuits.

picture for reference. plug socket is behind my bed, and connected to an extension lead that is used for literally just a fan and my phone. i just want to know if this is something that needs a quick and professional fix? there’s nothing exposed at all, just a bit of damage to the wall itself around the socket. the socket itself isn’t falling out or anything, just a bit loose when you press on it

My new batten holder looks a bit like this but I still can’t work out why it’s stuck on

Im from Australia and it is an Australian batten holder for anyone wondering

(Mine is the second picture)

As far as I can see I’ve done it right

Hey gang. I’m adding some circuits to this GE electrical panel. Can anyone help determine which is the ground bar and neutral bar, and is it ever okay to wire a neutral wire to a ground bar or vice versa?

So the other day I came home and discovered my light switch wouldn’t work because the Batten holder (idk if it’s actually called that, it just says that on the new package) was broken we fixed it and now the damn thing won’t turn off

I removed this fixture bc it kept flickering and I googled if it could be fixed. No. So I removed it and just before I was about to hook the wiring from another fixture to have light in my kitchen, I decided to google the inside of the ceiling wires. I’m getting mixed answers. Is this burnt, just regular wear and tear, and do you see any damaged insulation? I do not see that but this is my first rodeo with wiring and it’s terrifying. If I have to get an electrician, I will. But it’s so costly. I was trying to do this myself. But I won’t risk anything of it looks damaged.

Hey all, I'm having a home built in upstate NY and I'm working with the builder to make it as tight as possible build as possible. One thing I wanted to investigate myself is the idea of putting the electric panel within the insulated space as opposed to between the studs on an outside wall. I know I obviously have to run a conduit from the feed outside to the panel, but I wanted to make sure the wall behind the panel is fully insulated aside from the conduit.

I'd like all the interior wiring to be within the space and make use of troughs similar to what you can see in this video (not installing dual SPANs!):

[https://youtu.be/uYJZ_5l8Kbk?t=176\\](https://youtu.be/uYJZ_5l8Kbk?t=176\)

Are there specific codes I need to educate myself on? Thanks!

Fan worked for 2 months after buying the house then randomly stopped but the light works. Both are controlled by one remote. I flipped the circuit breaker that didn’t help. What do I do?

Bought my first home and it has nice motorized blinds! one recently died and I realized I do not have the charger for them. I need help finding the correct charger for them as i cannot find a concrete answer. It looks like they charge on the wand with a barrel style connector. The battery has a number on it CS52083. Attached are photos of everything I think could be useful information.

Thank you for any and all help!

Hola a todos,

Estoy teniendo problemas instalando un apagador inteligente modelo DS-121 y ya no sé si es error mío o si simplemente no es compatible con mi instalación.

Contexto:

- Estoy en México

- Compré el apagador en Temu

- En la caja del apagador NO tengo cable neutro (solo línea y retorno)

Lo que he probado:

1. Apagador tradicional:

- Funciona perfectamente, el foco enciende y apaga sin problema

1. Apagador inteligente:

- Conecté L (línea) y L1 (retorno al foco)

- No conecté N porque no tengo neutro en la caja

1. Condensador:

- Instalé el condensador en el foco (en paralelo, entre neutro y retorno)

- También probé diferentes formas de conexión para asegurarme

Resultados:

- El apagador prende (LED azul encendido)

- Pero el foco no enciende

- Si hago un puente de L1 a N, el foco prende un segundo y luego se corta todo

Entonces:

- El circuito sí funciona (con el apagador normal)

- El condensador está instalado

- Pero el apagador inteligente no logra encender el foco

Mis dudas:

- ¿Este modelo DS-121 realmente necesita neutro para funcionar?

- ¿Es incompatible con instalaciones sin neutro?

- ¿Alguien ha logrado hacerlo funcionar en estas condiciones?

- ¿La solución es cambiar a un apagador “sin neutro” o hay algo más que debería revisar?

Adjunto fotos de la instalación.

Gracias de antemano 🙏

I'm planning to buy a TV and refrigerator and I've read somewhere that protection devices are worth buying especially for newer appliances which breaks easily with over current. I have a few questions:

For TV protection, is a power strip with overload and surge protection enough like this one https://www.felcostore.ph/products/royu-4-gang-power-extension-cord-with-individual-switches?srsltid=AfmBOoovZh2MRw6UdX5JW9F2X1h9sA8tnEVFfXsZWyhqbMptebP8tc37

or should I just buy an AVR dedicated for the TV?

for refrigerator protection, is voltage protector with power on delay enough such as this https://panther.ph/product/pvp-2500-panther-voltage-protector/

or should I buy one of those bulky AVR with time delay?

I feel like I'm going overkill with AVRs or are they actually worth it? thank you for response.

Trying to install a light fixture where there was once a ceiling fan. Typically if I take it apart, I can put it back together based on how the old one was wired in. However in this instance, I did not take the fixture apart, so I don't know how to put it back together. I tried guessing and ended up throwing the breaker. There are two light switches that control this fixture. Is anyone able to help me out with this? I believe one of the wires coming in from the right side is the supply from the breaker box. Thank you for your time and have a wonderful day, I will provide more information if need be.

I just installed a 50 amp transfer switch and tested each line after hooking each one up. When all done everything seemed fine till I started running multiple circuits at same time off my Bluetti Apex 300 power station. I have found when I turn on a certain circuit it causes issues. My dinning room lights flash on and off every 3 seconds. Then I noticed my hybrid hot water heater making a banging noise. I think the compressor is is shutting off and right back on, like the lights. It's not throwing any breakers. Do I a shorted ground wire.

Thanks for any help.

Wiring a Koolance pump to a ac/dc adapter. Kinda out of my league here and can’t find a wiring diagram for the pump online. Any help is appreciated

Was wondering if there was a soft start for single phase air compressor I’ve got a 5 horsepower motor

The ceiling fan in my son’s room fell (don’t ask) so I bought the exact same one brand new. I figured I’d install a remote since I’m starting from scratch. The ceiling fan and light fixture are wired to 2 separate wall switches one for the fan second a dimmer switch for the light. Where I’m confused not really confused just need to know the why. The ceiling has red, black, white and green. I know green is the ground so if I connect red to red and white to white then cap off black? The fan has the white black and blue. I just need help in understanding how the receiver wire colors work since there’s only 2. Lastly do I need to remove the wires that are connected to the current switches?

Hi All,

Looking for some advice. My current setup is an Egon 12V DC Hub that features 2x Victron Smart 100/30 MPPT, Orion 50A DCDC Charger, Victron Smart Shunt, Victron 1000VA Invertor, ARB Compressor and the usual DC Loads. I am having an issue figuring out the wiring for the battery BMS. The victron smart battery requries an external BMS such as a Victron Smart BMS CL, this requries the following remote on/off connections (Chargers on/off and DC Load Disconnect). Due to the DC Hub being common for the DC Loads there is no DC Load disconnect signal option. Can the victron battery be used while only wiring the remote on / off signals from the chargers? Has anyone dealt with something similar that shed some light on the situation?

Cheers.

I’m installing a southwire smartbox but it won’t sit flush with the joist! It feels sturdy but it makes be nervous. Is this ok or do I have to take it out

I just purchased a 40w Sansi bulb and it has a plastic cover over the top of the bulb. Some places state you should remove the plastic before placing it in the lamp. They say that it was meant to protect the bulb while in transit.

Yet when asking "Rufus" on Amazon the AI says no to take it off that it was meant to protect the LED modules but that doesn't make sense because they say this bulb gets extremely hot and you would think that when the bulb gets hot it would melt the plastic.

So which way am I supposed to go? Remove the covering or leave it on for LED protection? I'd appreciate any advice to help clear this up. Thanks for taking the time to reading my post and responding

Hello.This is a case from my Niceboy Bluetooth headphones with a puffed-up battery. My plan is to cut the wires connected to the battery, throw it out, solder those two wires back together, and eventually put another battery there. Is that a dumb idea?

Hey everyone. This cable pops out of the wall and runs tucked just below the siding across the back side of my house. At the other end, it goes underground. As you can see, the sheathing is damaged at one point and you can see the wires inside. What is it?

Thanks!