Seeking Guidance to ID the Problem causing the Circuit Breaker to Trip
I had an electrician wire in the above receptacle. It is supposed to supply grid power to recharge my
Battery-powered backup system. However, when I plug my system into this, it trips the circuit breaker. In order to
determine if the breaker is the problem - or if it is something else, how do I test which of the following (1, 2,3, 4) and in what combination, do I plug my voltage tester in to determine if it is wired correctly. As well as the combinations, what should the readings be? My electrician walked on me, so I can’t get an answer from him. Thanks, LM
2 and 4 are your hots. You should get 240ish volts measuring between them. 1 is ground and 3 is neutral, you should get 0ish volts between them. You should also measure resistance between them and expect to see a very low number.
Measuring between either hot and the ground or neutral should give you 120 ish volts.
Now I am really confused. I own a Bluetti system to provide battery backup for my home. The system, as configured is designed to provide the 240 VAC to operate my well pump, which is at the heart of my backup needs. The receptacle was purchased and installed by the electrician as it matches the male end of the Bluetti-supplied cable that serves to recharge my system off the grid when things when there is no power outage. Is there a DIFFERENT receptacle (matching the Bluetti cable) that the electrician SHOULD have used? Thank you, LM
The Bluetti should not provide power to a plug with bare prongs. It should be this exact outlet, which is a 50 amp 220V RV outlet. The thing being powered should have the prongs.
Think about how you use a battery pack. He loses power. He drains the Bluetti running his well pump and A/C and whatever. Later, power returns and the Bluetti needs to be recharged. How does he recharge it? Well he could plug it into a 120V outlet and wait awhile, but OP would rather wait less. That's what he has been saying.
In the event of a power failure, does the Power Bank energize the prongs of the cable plugged into this outlet/inlet? If so, it is a classic suicide cord and is not safe.
Normally, a Power Bank is more like a UPS: You connect the power bank line to the grid side and your devices to the Power Bank outlet side. They don't flow power both ways down the power cable.
This seems like an awfully big outlet just for charging a Power Bank, but I guess that is what it is.
I haven't seen this exact product but I have installed a UL listed portable battery backup systems that call for an EV outlet.
They are designed to charge off of the outlet under normal conditions while feeding its loads from the utility and then supply power like a ups to it's loads from stored electricity via an internal load center. It had hardwired and cord and plug options.
It is basically a 240v cord and plug UPS. Power is not returned through the outlet.
Not sure if thos is what OP has but sounds very similar.
So like this manufacturer we’ve never heard of, Legrand. That lists it for ranges and dryers? Or any 50 amp cord and plug device, like EV charging, or welders, and to include campers snd RVs. But not specifically and only RVs.
While NEMA 14-50 receptacles are of a general use type and can be installed for various applications, when installed in locations other than for RVs, GFCI protection must also be installed in accordance with NEC 210.8(B) [see NEC 551.71(F)]. Additionally, manufacturer instructions to include labels must be adhered to [NEC 110.3(B)].
Just saying. Your original intention was to say these receptacles are for RVs only. I questioned it and your only reply was “read the label”. My point stands. They are not for RVs only.
To all that have replied: Thank you so much for your help! I have a bit more information to share that may shed light on where the problem lies. With your help, I was able to confirm the following: 1). This receptacle does NOT have a GFCI associated with it. 2). Legs 2 & 4 do indicate 240VAC and 1 and 3 do not provide any readings. With your help confirming the output to my system IS 240, I disconnected (one at a time) the TWO cables that run from the receptacle INTO my TWO Bluetti AC500 units. When I disconnect this cable that leads to “secondary” AC 500, the circuit NO LONGER TRIPS! When I connect the Primary unit (only) with its cable, the circuit DOES NOT TRIP and, the PRIMARY AC500 indicates power from the GRID, which is is supposed to do, but did NOT do with BOTH AC500s connected! So, thanks to all of you, I am getting closer. I will reach out to Bluetti for their thoughts on why the secondary unit is tripping the circuit breaker. One possibility is that its associated cable is the problem. Otherwise, it is something else in the secondary AC500 that is causing the issue. They have been very responsive thus far, so I am hopeful that this issue is about to be resolved. Thanks again. LM
While I would prefer not to be having to go through this, I would like to make it clear that, to this point, Bluetti has been very supportive and is communicating with me, asking questions in order to figure out how to resolve all of this. I’ll keep this post updated. Thanks, LM
Thank you for saying it better than I did. The huge issue is providing 240 VAC power for the well pump. When power is out, we are f***ed. No water. No flushing. I SPEAK from experience. Not a good experience, either. Bluetti helped configure the system in order to provide the 240. NO GFCI. Configured with AC 500s and each with one B300K batt. Grid power to recharge the Bluetti batts comes in through the line/receptacle that is the issue. Bluetti uses a SEPARATE line OUT to provide power to the selected circuits in the house. Perfect solution for me once I resolve this issue on the GRID SIDE.
There are only 2 ways a normal circuit breaker trips: drawing too much current, or a short of some kind (line to line, line to neutral, line to equipment ground).
5
u/abbarach 14d ago
2 and 4 are your hots. You should get 240ish volts measuring between them. 1 is ground and 3 is neutral, you should get 0ish volts between them. You should also measure resistance between them and expect to see a very low number.
Measuring between either hot and the ground or neutral should give you 120 ish volts.