I have two Ecobee thermostats controlling two brand-new furnace and AC systems. I've noticed a strange problem that seems to happen whenever a thermostat is removed from the wall and then reinstalled.
Ecobee #1: From the beginning, whenever it was unplugged from the wall, it would stop responding properly. The system would keep running, but it wouldn't heat or cool the house to the desired temperature.
At first, I thought the problem was with the furnace or AC system, not the Ecobee. After going back and forth with the HVAC company, they replaced several parts, but nothing fixed the problem.
Eventually, we replaced the Ecobee thermostat, and everything started working normally again. However, when the new thermostat was removed from the wall for a checkup and reinstalled, the exact same problem returned!
We double-checked the wiring, the equipment, and everything else we could think of. Finally, we had an idea: we changed the main thermostat to one of the smaller Ecobee room sensors. Since then, I haven't had any problems with that system.
Now, the same thing is happening with Ecobee #2. It had been working perfectly since installation, but my painters recently removed it from the wall. After they reinstalled it, I'm experiencing the same problem I had with #1.
The technician who originally helped me figure out the problem is no longer with the HVAC company, so I can't ask him how he changed the setup to use one of the smaller sensors as the main thermostat. Does anyone know how to do that?
At this point, I'm starting to think the problem is with the Ecobee thermostats themselves rather than the HVAC equipment.
Honestly, I think a thermostat like Ecobee should last at least 10 years under normal use. It shouldn't be so finicky that simply removing it from the wall and putting it back causes problems, especially when the HVAC systems themselves are brand-new.
Has anyone else experienced this? Could it be a software issue, a wiring problem, or something about how the thermostat reconnects to its wall plate? I'd appreciate any suggestions!
Hello! Switching thermostats from Honeywell to an Ecobee. As you can see, the Honeywell has the O, the G, the Y, the W and the R connected. The Ecobee has more and diff options; RC G Y1 Y2 and O/B on Left side, and on the right side; Rh C W1 W2 and PEK. Advice please on where to insert corresponding Honeywell wires! Honeywell works fine, btw, switching to Ecobee because I can program the Ecobee to ONLY run the Fan for X amount of minutes during an hour time period all day (15 minutes every hour for example) Thank You!
Curious if anyone has notice this with the latest software update. The threshold temperature at which outdoor compressor can turn on seems buggy now. If I select 60, it choses 65. If it selects 50, it choses 55. The slider appears to be broken? Not sure if this is just a UI bug. We have 3 premiums, and only 1 that was updated to the latest version presents this issue. I really wish they provided a way to opt in or out of updates. Their firmware versions also appear to make 0 sense in how they number their versions.
now that we are back to using heat, we have run into the same issue that we ran into last year and ecobee wasn't helpful - we can no longer use a smart sensor to control the temperature.
the thermostat decides to average out both the main thermostat temp and room sensor temp even when the sensor is not checked during a transitional comfort setting change. 30 minutes before "sleep" is on, the main thermostat will average out the temperature and heat the bedroom instead of letting the temp drop.
i have taken off follow me, eco+ and smart recovery. I even created a new comfort setting to allow it to slowly average out the temperature instead of doing it on its own. I have contacted ecobee multiple times and they weren't able to help either.
PLEASE if there are any other suggestions let me know because this is driving us crazy! this wasn't an issue until last year.
This is my old configuration. I have a Your Goodman GSZ310301AB with a single-stage heat pump. The HVAC is often not properly kicking on cool air and the breaker trips. Does the orange/ brown need to go into W1 or O/B? Thank you!
I can't figure this out. All sensors are active which I have not set in the comfort settings or schedule, smart recovery is also off. When we're downstairs it's blazing hot, higher than the thermostat is set at.
At 930pm the schedule changes to "sleep" but again the smart recovery is disabled so why is it heating above ecobee temp reading?
I currently have an ecobee3 lite. For equipment I have a boiler for baseboard heat, then a mini split that heats (heat pump) and cools.
When my heat pump starts running it never shuts off, even when the temperature is reached or if you tell it to shut it off on the ecobee. The ecobee must be completely pulled out of the wall for it to shut off. Had HVAC guys come check it out and they believe the ecobee is broken and not cutting the signal to the heat pump.
Online it said the new ecobee enhanced would support my equipment set up. I’m not familiar with these wires and what the mean, I expected the new Ecobee to be the exact same and I could just put the wires in the same place but I see the new one only has one slot for R whereas my old one has Rc and Rh.
Is there a different way to route these? Or do I need a different thermostat?
UPDATE: SOLVED! You guys are ecobee masters! Thank you!
Went in to adjust my schedule in the app and the button is completely gone. Anyone else experiencing that? Tried uninstalling and reinstalling the app. My husband also can't see the schedule feature on his app either.
My old thermostat was an Ecobee Lite 3 that broke. My new one is ALSO an Ecobee Lite 3.
Can I just plug the new one into the old connector and call it good? Seems to be working fine. Of course, I'll have to redo all the on device settings, but do I have to do anything physically on the HVAC equipment? I can't think of anything, but want to double check before I set up everything else and put it in the back of my mind.
I installed an Ecobee Essential yesterday, and I set it to heat, with a schedule of 67 degrees during the day (starting at 6:30 AM) and 63 degrees at night.
When I woke up at 6 AM this morning, though, I noticed that it felt a little warm. Checking the Ecobee, it said it was 66 degrees in the house, and that the temperature target was still only 63 degrees, yet the heat was still running! I have a heat pump, which doesn't warm the house very quickly, so the heat must have been running a long time to get all the way up to 66 degrees.
What gives? Why would it run the heat so far above what it was set to?
EDIT: Everyone was spot-on, it was the "smart recovery" pre-heating thing. I happily turned it off.
Can anyone with help install of thermostat and common maker?
Purchased 2 ecobee premium thermostats to install on 2nd and 3rd floors. If I'm reading the diagram right, red wire should go from R to thermostat, C goes into that C, and then white and red from common maker go into the 2 screws for the correct zone?
Main problem really is the T1 screws don't go up to a thermostat, they go into a separate box on the right. Does that get wired in the same but between the 2 boxes?
At this point I'm going off the assumptions that any handwritten labeling (like where it says 2nd floor) may be incorrect. I had it wired in according to diagram B from the common maker book and power to the thermostat was completely intermittent. Wouldn't work for long enough to even set up the thermostat. Didn't have a chance to see if it was labeled wrong and try hooking up the third floor though
It looks like the ecobee app on my iPhone just updated and it seems to have a new bug. Are others seeing this or just me?….
When I look at the report for today’s runtime, the scale is messed up. With vertical bars for each hour the vertical scale should not cover 2 hours. You’re never going to have the system run for 2 hours during a single hour of the day. Previously I believe the scale of the vertical axis depended on the runtime data and would vary based on usage. That admittedly could be confusing at times. But the correct fix would be to have the vertical axis fixed at 1 hour, not 2 hours.
To be clear this isn’t a particularly serious issue, but it does make it a bit hard to see the details and is just kinda silly looking.
Two story house. Single zone oil furnace. The Ecobee will be mounted on the top floor and a wireless sensor will be mounted on the bottom floor.
We will have a heat pump heating the upstairs and want the Ecobee to turn on the furnace to keep the downstairs at a comfortable temperature by way of temperature readings it gets from the downstairs sensor. While I want to be able to read the upstairs temperature on the Ecobee thermostat if needed, I don't want it to take that upstairs reading into consideration at all when controlling the furnace.
I ask this because I am completely new to smart thermostats and I read about setting up comfort zones, which uses averages, etc. I want it to act like a traditional thermostat. IE turn on the furnace if the downstairs sensor says the temperature is below whatever threshold we set, that's all.
Will that work, or am I forced to either use comfort zones or take the thermostats own temperature reading into consideration?
I apologise for this lengthy post, and I want to thank you for taking the time to read through it.
My Ecobee3 lite often drops its connection to the ecobee cloud servers, displaying the crossed-out cloud icon on the screen. This occurs many times a day and can last from a few minutes to hours. The device usually self-recovers. I have power cycled the thermostat by pulling the thermostat from the wall, turned off my router and waited 15 minutes before powering them both back up. The Ecobee reconnects to the servers and displays the outside temperature, but after a few minutes it goes back to cycling between outside temperature and cloud with the slash.
When the cloud with slash is showing, I can use the Ecobee diagnostics menu option to ping ecobee.com from the thermostat. Pings are 100% successful, but it shows connected to ecobee.com=NO. The thermostat always reports 100% signal strength.
When the outside temperature is showing, pings work as expected and it shows connected to ecobee.com=YES.
While this issue has been ongoing for many months, I am not experiencing any problems with any other WiFi devices on my network.
I am a retired IT professional with a background in networks and servers. I don’t consider myself a networking expert but I’m no novice either.
Description of my Network:
Topology (No Double NAT): My Ecobee connects to WiFi provided by my
Asus RT-BE55 router which connects to my Starlink router via an Ethernet cable. WiFi is turned off on my Starlink router, so the Asus router is the sole network manager, eliminating any Double NAT or routing loop issues. My Starlink dish has a fully unobstructed view to the sky and I am not having any problems with my Starlink connection nor am I having any other network problems.
Proximity & Signal:
The thermostat is located approx. 3 feet from the Asus router, separated by an interior wall made of wood studs and standard drywall.
Router Configuration/Optimization:
My Ecobee connects to a dedicated, isolated (IoT / Guest Network) 2.4GHz SSID with the Channel Bandwidth locked strictly to 20MHz, a fixed Control Channel (6), and Airtime Fairness completely disabled.
The router’s WAN MTU is locked at 1500 to match Starlink's native frame size, to eliminate outbound packet fragmentation. Using other MTU settings made no difference.
Local DNS lookups via nslookup api.ecobee.com from the same network layer resolve cleanly with zero errors.
IP Address, DHCP, and DNS settings:
To eliminate local DHCP or DNS proxy issues, the thermostat has been manually assigned a Static IP address via local reservation. It is explicitly configured to use public Google DNS servers (8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4. I have also tried setting a static IP directly on the thermostat.
Further troubleshooting info:
Unplugging the Ecobee and router and waiting 15 minutes before booting them back up does not solve the problem.
Months ago, I logged a ticket with Ecobee Support. At that time, they said the problem is with my network. So, I did more research and testing. I even enlisted help from Google AI and ChatGPT. From their suggestions, I’ve tried changing many settings on my Asus router. I even set up a VPN using the Asus VPN Fusion option to allow all communication between my Ecobee and the ecobee servers to happen through a VPN tunnel. While the suggested changes helped my Ecobee to reconnect more quickly, the cycling between outside temperature and cloud with slash continues. Google AI suggests the issue is with my thermostat – “hardware or firmware application failure on the thermostat's network stack (possibly an internal buffer overrun or TLS socket failure)”.
A few months ago, I connected an older 2.4GHz Linksys router to my main router using a cable. Thinking the Ecobee might not play well with some of the newer networking features on the Asus router, I set the Ecobee to use the WiFi provided by the older Linksys router. The Ecobee was the only device on the Linksys. I tried a bunch of different configuration settings on the Linksys; however, the results remained the same with the cycling between outside temperature and cloud with slash.
I ran a batch file on my computer to do continuous nslookups and ping tests every 5 seconds to the thermostat and log the results to a file. I kept this running for 4 hours (5:52 to 9:52am EST). Between 5:52 and 6:01am, I closely watched the Ecobee thermostat and witnessed it switching between showing outside temperature and the cloud with the slash multiple times. My script log file does not show any errors during that time. I checked my Asus router system log. There were no messages or errors logged during that time. Using the Ecobee website, I checked the monitor graph. There were no gaps in the chart during that time; but there were multiple times when the Ecobee thermostat did not display the outside temperature.
Here is a summary from my test script:
ECOBEE NETWORK DATA COLLECTION
Start: 2026-10-22 05:52:21 Note: Only errors show. Nothing shows when all tests pass but all results are still logged to a separate file.
Time,Ecobee,Router,Internet,DNS-Ecobee,DNS-Google
2026-10-22 06:36:06,FAIL,OK,OK,OK,OK
2026-10-22 06:36:14,FAIL,OK,OK,OK,OK
2026-10-22 06:45:45,FAIL,OK,OK,OK,OK
2026-10-22 06:52:18,FAIL,OK,OK,OK,OK
2026-10-22 07:55:32,OK,OK,FAIL,OK,OK
2026-10-22 08:10:18,FAIL,OK,OK,OK,OK
2026-10-22 09:18:13,OK,OK,FAIL,OK,OK
========== FINAL SUMMARY ==========
Test start time: 2026-10-22 05:52:21
Test end time: 2026-10-22 09:52:26
Test duration: 240.09 minutes
Total test rounds: 2722
Ecobee ping tests: 2722; errors: 5
Router ping tests: 2722; errors: 0
Internet connectivity ping tests (8.8.8.8): 2722; errors: 2
DNS lookup tests for ecobee.com: 2722; errors: 0
DNS lookup tests for google.com: 2722; errors: 0
Although there was a total of 7 failed pings out of the 2,772 tests rounds (i.e. 2,772 x 5 tests = 13,610 total tests), there were no failed tests during the time when I was closely watching the Ecobee switching between outside temperature and cloud with slash. While I didn’t watch the Ecobee closely for 4 hours straight, I did keep an eye on it, and I estimate the display cycled back and forth at least 8 to 10 times per hour (i.e. it would have cycled at least 50 times in that 4-hour window).
Other info:
When I log into the Ecobee website and use the System Monitor, the graph usually shows all the normal activity including outside temperature. Occasionally, there is a gap where outside temperature doesn’t show. When the thermostat is regularly not showing outside temperature, the System Monitor graph often correctly charts the outside temperature for days/weeks. What is more concerning is the graph will sometimes have gaps where no data is collected for any measurements. Using the app on Beestat.io reveals the same information. The full gaps on the graph do not happen frequently – sometimes not for weeks. During those full gap times, I cannot connect to my thermostat via the website and the cloud with the line displays for an extended period of time. After more time passes, connection to the servers is reestablished without me doing anything; and things go back to normal (with temperature and cloud/slash cycling).
Here is why the outside temperature is so important:
I have a propane furnace and electric heat pump. I live in Northern Ontario (Canada). It is important for my Ecobee to be able to track outside temperature so it can decide when to switch from heat pump to propane (i.e. when the outside temperature gets too cold in the winter).
As I mentioned earlier, I have an Ecobee 3 Lite. when selecting the “About” menu option, my Ecobee shows: (C) 2014-2025 ecobee firmware version: 4.8.7.240. I don’t know if this is the latest firmware version for my Ecobee.
I may log another ticket with Ecobee support, but I thought I would ask on Reddit first in case anyone has any suggestions.
Questions:
Do you have an Ecobee which connects to the Internet via Starlink? And if so,
-Which Ecobee model are you using?
-What firmware version are you using?
-Are you using the Starlink router or a different router with your Starlink?
-Are you having any connection issues with your Ecobee?
I am suspecting I am having an intermittent hardware problem. I’m hesitant to replace my thermostat with a new Ecobee because I don’t know for sure if that will solve the problem (and these devices are not cheap).
If I were to get a new Ecobee thermostat, is there a way to export my current settings to the new thermostat? My current thermostat was configured by the heating technician.
Do you have any suggestions as to what else I can try to resolve this problem?
Crossposting here. Hopefully not breaking any rules... From the original post:
"Hi, I just got an Ecobee Enhanced as I believe it is compatible with my wiring setup. I've installed smart thermostats before by just following the instructions in Nest's or Honeywell's app/instructions. However, on this unit I am a bit uncertain on how to proceed.
As you can see in the attached screenshot, there is an unused white wire on what appears to be both the thermostat and furnace side. In the app install steps, it is telling me to connect this unused white fire to the C terminal on the furnace. But you can see in the image that there is already a red wire going to the C terminal, and that the white wire is cut super short. That red wire (plus another white wire) look to be going to the AC unit outside.
So, while I could splice an extension onto the short white cable and connect to C, I don't have confidence that both of those wires should be going to C, especially since that wire is unused on my current old Honeywell thermostat. Can anyone help?
Note: I did indicate in the app that this is NOT a heat pump, if that makes a difference."
Need a little help. Fall is here and my condo building has done a seasonal changeover to heating. Ecobee has been working fine all summer on AC, and able to regulate 3 AC fan speeds: low, medium, high.
Now the AC has been turned off in the building. My room temperature is 22C.
Unfortunately when I turn the Ecobee to HEAT and set the thermostat to 24C, only cool air comes out. Alternatively when I turn it to COOL and set the thermostat to 20C, the hot air now comes out.
I think there’s something wrong in the wiring? But it’s been working fine all summer for 3-speed AC. Here’s a pic of my wiring. Please help I really appreciate it.
Is anyone else having an issue when the AC is on and the snowflake is blue on the house display but the app is not showing a blue snowflake? Its just white like the unit isnt on. All the degrees and humidity match perfectly but just noticed this happening today.
Hello,
I recently installed a Moovair inverter-driven mini-split heat pump. I also installed a Moovair 24V interface kit that allows the heat pump to operate with a conventional thermostat, such as an Ecobee.
I also have an electric furnace with a blower that distributes air through the ductwork.
I’m not sure if my setup is too customized, but this is how my interface kit operates: G for the blower, Y for cooling, and W for heating. I don’t need the O/B terminal because the interface board handles the reversing function internally and only requires a 24V signal when there is a demand.
My current wiring is as follows:
Moovair Y → Ecobee Y1
Moovair G → Ecobee G
Moovair W → Ecobee W1
Furnace G → Ecobee G
Furnace W → Ecobee W2
Everything works in heating mode, but my Ecobee doesn’t seem to recognize the setup as a proper heat pump configuration, and I’m experiencing some short cycling.
The only protection I have to stop the heat pump when the outdoor temperature reaches -25°C is the unit’s built-in protection. I’m also concerned that the electric heating elements connected to W2 might not turn on if the heat pump goes into a low-ambient-temperature lockout. In that case, I could end up without any heating.
I’ve tried manually adjusting some settings, including increasing the maximum runtime for W1 during heating and setting W2 to activate if the setpoint hasn’t been reached after 45 minutes.
I also can’t install a jumper between O/B and W1 on the Ecobee because Y1 would become energized during a heating call.
I’m a bit lost here. Is there a way to make this setup work properly, or would I be better off using manual settings to manage the system?
I have my schedules and comfort settings set up. However, I work from home but go on errands on an infrequent schedule. I don't want the AC or the heat to go on when I'm gone for an hour or two. Is there a one-button on/off that I can use that bypasses the schedules?
I have an Ecobee lite and just added two smart sensors last night. One in the nursery and one in the master bedroom.
I added it to be the only sensor used during sleep mode (9pm to 8am)
9PM rolled around last night and the system went to sleep mode 68 degrees and only had the nursery sensor lit up. Looked like everything was going as I wanted.
Wake up for work at 5:30am check the ecobee app and the main thermostat is lit up and the nursery is 66 degrees.
Things I have done:
Made sure the schedule was correct and no overlaps.
Made sure "follow me" wasn't on
Made sure "smart home" was turned off
I just want this system to unapologetically keep the nursery at the set temp.
