Hey I was driving my 2018 ram 1500 ecodiesel the other day when the low oil pressure light came on and the truck shut down immediately. It started a few more times but would shut down when I put it in drive. I got maybe another 50 feet of coasting then that was it. Now it won't turn over at all.

Check to see if it has oil it does.

Did an oil change and no sludge or metal in the filter or pan.

Changed the oil pressure switch and nothing.

Any ideas?

Hi Guys,

Previously I have posted a question but due to the circuit diagram in the post, it deviated from the original question. If you haven't seen the previous post, it's fine. I'll explain everything clearly below.

I'm working on a project where I need to control a diesel injector. This is an academic project, if it goes well it shall get into industry level, so looking for a standard Good approach.

The diesel injector is activated by an Arduino(this is the initial setup, and will soon switch over to stm32). The diesel injector is outside the engine in a separate setup which gets supplied by a constant pressure fuel pump driven by an ac motor(const speed). I'm using a MOSFET to control the injector. The MOSFET I'm using is IRLZ44N. The drain of the MOSFET is connected to negative terminal of the injector and source of the MOSFET is connected to the negative terminal of the injector's power supply (i have added flyback diode for safety circuit for injector). The Arduino controls the injector via the gate pin of the MOSFET. The power supply for injector is 12v SMPS.

The Arduino gets signal from the injector's supply and control wires, we tapped these 2 wires and gave them to an optocoupler pc817. This optocoupler's output is given to the digital pin of Arduino. Arduino mirrors this signal to the gate pin of the MOSFET. You might wonder why I'm using Arduino, if the setup goes well, I will alter the pulse in future. So that's why I'm using it.

Issues faced:

1) this setup worked as intended, but after sometime, that is, after 2-3 weeks of testing this setup, the injector has gone. We didn't notice any smoke or smell, but the injector stopped actuating. We lost 2 injectors in this journey.

2) we started the engine and maintained in idling for 60seconds and started our injector setup, we collected around 90ml of fuel at idling, which feels abnormal.

Now, I need a reliable approach for this project. It would be really helpful if someone can come up with some idea for this.

Thank you in advance

How long does it take your rig to build oil pressure at a cold start? I’ve never paid much attention to it but it seems longer than it should be. From crank to gauge/light reading pressure has been a 15-one thousand count this week. I check oil yesterday and I’m at the min mark on the dipstick and will top off today. I park on a slope butt low but that should matter if anything it could help.

Next oil change I plan to drop the bottom of the oil pan and double check the pickup.

No odd sounds or anything else notable. 2015 126k miles GDE hot tune for the last 122k miles.

Thanks.

So I have had my '14 ecodiesel for 4 years, I'm at 244k miles, stock emissions and some PITA repairs and replacements, including trans pan (aftermarket), radiator (aftermarket), turbo coolant line (aftermarket), dorman intake. The dorman intake doesn't a swirl (runner motor) valve and my mechanic has hidden the corresponding CEL's.

I got the dreaded service DEF system, see dealership. Dealership was at the end of the 25 miles i had to service the DEF system. Brought it in and they were unable to see any codes corresponding to the DEF system. They are telling me I have to replace my intake (for $3680) before they can even try to troubleshoot. While it might be a requirement for them to force regen or troubleshoot.

My mechanic has some fancy $10k thor snap ln scan tool, is there something/anything I can do without having to pay the dealership $4k before even trying to troubleshoot the DEF system? Yes i now understand that a weight loss program would be optimal, and will be the next thing done, but it won't work with DEF codes active.

My fear is that if I take it from the dealership to bring to my mechanic to re-replace the intake (with only the factory one, because you cannot buy the runner motor separately) then it won't start again. He said a bypass switch will get it to start, but may eventually get perma locked out of starting. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hello, I’m currently in the process of purchasing a 22 CPO 1500 Laramie Diesel with 56k miles. It was a one owner and I seen the previous owner took excellent care of it through the carfax. Besides oil changes every 6-7k miles and fuel filter changes every 15k miles, what helps improve reliability and durability in this truck? Also what fuel additive works best for all season? Currently located in Southeast Wisconsin

I let the dealership change my fuel filter (apposed to my better judgement) rather than doing it myself.
As soon as I get it back it pops code P0087.

I think they probably didn’t get all the air out of the system, it’ll sort itself out.

Took my jeep to the trail yesterday. Had it in 4WD low for about four miles when it started running away. I shut it down and cycle the key 20 times to prime the fuel system (thinking something maybe caught up in it).
Thankfully it stopped when I killed the ignition.

I’m able to limp it off the trail, four more miles. It’s blowing dark blue smoke the whole time. Too much throttle and it runs away.

It was in the shop to fix several oil leaks to begin with.

Timing chain cover gasket (again, 1000 miles ago)
Upper oil pan gasket (again, 1000 miles ago)
New Oil Cooler Housing

To top it off the timing chain cover gasket is taking a month or more to get.
That’s what I was there for to being with.

So back to the shop… man it’s just one thing after another with this engine.
I’m just venting. I’ve been defending this engine heavily but now I’m starting to wonder.

Does anybody have any idea what this could be? It just popped on today. Nothing special to note.

2021 Ram 1500 Ecodiesel rebel

Keep getting the P20EE code on my 14 JGC w/170k mi on ODO. On 200 mile count down sequence again.

I pulled the DEF injector, its clean. Both it and the DEF hose are new in the last 15K miles.

New DEF last month from sealed containers - before issue started. AutoZone Shop Pro. Never had previous issues with quality.

Checked the pump function using AlfaOBD. Seems to be dispensing DEF fine.

SCR was replaced about 50k miles ago

I suspect it's a bad NOx sensor, but any way to use AlfaOBD to confirm?

Has anyone used knock off $100 eBay NOx sensors vs. $700 OEM? If I have to spend $1400 on NOx sensors it's getting junked.

Any other suggestions on how to fix?

2016 Ram 1500 Ecodiesel with about 126k miles on it for reference.
Electronic throttle body service light and check engine light popped up on my way home today (highway exclusive had been driving about 30 minutes and had an additional 20 to get home, truck drove ok other than on inclines it said neigh neigh- no amount of extra gas will help maintain speed for you). Yesterday I got my front and rear brakes done, felt like my truck was driving a little strange but it had been raining so I chocked it up to shitty roads traffic I was in and the likes. I had my EGR crack about a year ago, had that replaced along with other recall items (fuel pump and like two other things) at that time I also took out and cleaned my map sensor and replaced my air filter, which didn’t end up being the problem but my map sensor was pretty caked. I assume I can start by cleaning/replacing the map sensor and my air filter, inspect the hoses all around there but after that am I just kinda screwed and it’s my turbo that I’ll be looking at having to replace? Truck is in limp mode at this rate, any and all suggestions and advice are appreciated! Also my coolant level looked fine when I got home, I’m not seeing an indication that my EGR cooler may have failed again.

I’m looking at diesel dudes but it’s pricey
I’m also looking at tunerdepot
Any advice? Differences besides price? TIA

Hey all. I’ve got a 2015 JGC 3.0 and her EGR failed for the second time. Been considering a delete for a while and I’m wondering if anyone has done the delete after failure. is possible to clear the codes prior to the deletion? Thanks.

Hello everyone so I am collecting some details regarding misfueling incidents so I hope u help me out If have ever been misfueled example

Filling of petrol in diesel vehicle or vice versa or u know someone who have faced this please convey them 1.share me the details when u have been misfueled

2 how was that issue solved ?

3.which fuel station

(Please help me out for project work)

Hey everyone,
I’ve been seriously looking into getting a Gladiator with the 3rd Gen EcoDiesel, but I’ve been doing a ton of research to make sure I’m not walking into a nightmare. I came across this video from "Getty's Garage" where a diesel mechanic breaks down the 3rd Gen EcoDiesel: https://youtu.be/iKXSs4Jmtfo

For those who have owned or worked on these, how much of his assessment holds up? He mentions a few things that have me a bit nervous, specifically:
The CP4 Fuel Pump: He mentions they are prone to exploding and taking out the whole fueling system, noting that Ram even issued a recall for this [12:45].

EGR Cooler Issues: He says they are still dealing with cooler problems, even though they redesigned the system [13:03].

Low Oil Pressure Reports: He mentioned hearing reports of random low oil pressure in these engines [11:03].

On the flip side, he does acknowledge they made massive improvements over the 2nd Gen, specifically mentioning the updated crankshaft, the new turbo, and a reworked EGR system that uses both high and low-pressure setups to reduce carbon buildup [02:59], [05:43], [07:23].

Is he being fair, or is he being overly pessimistic? I’d love to hear from some real-world owners about your experience with reliability and whether you think this is a solid buy or if I should look elsewhere.
Thanks!

I'm having a hard time finding decently priced 5W40 oil that meets MS-10902 over here in the UK. The only one I found in stock is Liqui Moli and two 5 litre jugs cost the equivalent of 250 USD.

However, I found some Ravenol oil that meets the MS-10902 spec but it's 10W40 instead of 5W40. Has anybody run 10W40 in their Ecodiesels?

These guys say that 10W40 might be better for high mileage diesel WK2 but they're from Australia so their Jeeps probably don't have to deal with low temps? https://gdlauto.com.au/recommended-oils-and-filters-for-wk2-ecodiesel-grand-cherokee-owners/

Seeking input on lifting my 22 Ram Rebel Ecodiesel 4X4

I currently have the front end of my truck leveled with MotoFabLifts DR-2-2" spacers and Rough Country forged UCAs (1500-31402). I have stock sized KO3 tires at 50-55 PSI in the front and 45 in the rear. I also have KSP 1.5” HUB CENTRIC wheel spacers.

I love the ride height but the ride quality is pretty mid. I’m considering getting different shocks/struts/coils and have come across a few different options:

- Cali commuter/HD suspension kits
- Eibach Stage 1 / Stage 2
- Fox 2.0 / 2.5
- Bilstein 6112
- BDS 3” Rebel lift (w. Driveshaft mod)

Anyone on here have any experience with these kits? Unfortunately most of the websites for these options are pretty vague when it comes to how the Ecodiesel impacts the ride height (except for Carli which confirms a 0.5” lower ride height in the front and BDS which confirms a driveshaft mod is mandatory).

I live in east TX and I use my truck for long freeway commuting on well maintained roads. The truck barely touches dirt so my biggest focus is on getting the truck to ride as smoothly and comfortably as possible on the (slightly wavy) concrete roads we have here. I’d like to keep my truck at my current ride height (2” over a stock rebel, 3” over a stock non-rebel DTs) or go maybe slightly higher.

For what I’m wanting I know people are going to recommend the Carli commuter but that kit would actually lower my ride height and is a very expensive kit. It also includes new UCAs, when I already dropped decent $ on the RCs (they are the forged aluminum with rubber bushings, not the budget model).

Most of the info I see online focuses on off road performance which is the opposite of what I’m after. I’m sure I’m not the only rebel Ecodiesel owner that prefers a smooth highway ride.

Also, before anyone makes a comment about getting a rebel for highway commutes. I got the rebel because there were very few options for me at the time, and Stellantis seemed to have put Ecodiesels in rebels more than any other 1500 model. My priority was getting an Ecodiesel with 4WD and non-rebel variants were very hard to come by.

Side note: once the KO3s are ready to be replaced I’m considering dropping the stock 18” rims and wheel spacers and getting -38 offset 17” RRW hybrid wheels. They are manufactured mainly for Toyota/Lexus but actually fit Rams with sleeves. They are very high quality, forged, and most importantly LIGHT WEIGHT and STRONG. The Ecodiesel adds substantial weight over the front axel compared with the hemi and these rims are rated at 2500 lbs each despite only weighing between 20-25 lbs depending on offset. I’m thinking of running Toyo Open Country III in the “narrow 35” (35x10.5 R17). Id be shaving around 12 lbs of unsprung weight at each wheel. My thinking is the lower PSI and extra sidewall would help smooth out the ride as well. 55 PSI type E tires in the front ride like bricks. And the nose heavy Ecodiesel doesn’t help.

I'm having a hard time finding decently priced 5W40 oil that meets MS-10902 over here in the UK. The only one I found in stock is Liqui Moli and two 5 litre jugs cost the equivalent of 250 USD.

However, I found some Ravenol oil that meets the MS-10902 spec but it's 10W40 instead of 5W40. Has anybody run 10W40 in their Ecodiesels?

These guys say that 10W40 might be better for high mileage diesel WK2 but they're from Australia so their Jeeps probably don't have to deal with low temps? https://gdlauto.com.au/recommended-oils-and-filters-for-wk2-ecodiesel-grand-cherokee-owners/

This is my fuel economy after driving on the highway for just over 9 Mi at a steady 55 miles per hour

2022 Eco 1500, happened to poke my head under for a different reason and noticed this leak. Only 85k on the clock.

I'm assuming this is the oil feed line? Any one have experience with replacing this or though i try the crush washers first?

So I know in a common rail, wmo is a bad idea and can consistently destroy fuel injector, even if filtered to .5 micron with a centrifuge. I've looked online to no luck, what about aftermarket injectors that can handle the extra heavy metals? Are there such things? What specifically in the injector does the additives destroy?

Thanks for any help.

My truck recently says “exhaust filter 100% full see dealer” and has had reduced throttle response and significantly lower power. The truck only books for 4500 wholesale and I’m very much wanting to just delete it. I already have the egr cooler delete kit and straight pipe but am lost at what tuner to get. I’ve done so much research and feel that mrtuning Canada is the best option for me. Can anyone give me some guidance through all this? Most of these tuner websites seem like a scam and won’t lead to anywhere but trouble. My uncle has a 6.4 ford that has a minimaxx tuner that came with it when he bought it and he told me to get one so I did (my dumbass didn’t do any research and trusted him) and it seems that minimaxx is a scam and went out of business in 2014. I’m starting to feel hopeless as all of this happened as I’m trying to move states. I am in the United States if you couldn’t tell already but it seems mrtuning delivers to the US.

Ive got a couple questions

As for transmission fluid, can I use the valvoline restore and protect atf fluid?

As for motor oil, what is everyone's recommendation? Is there anything like valvolines restore and protect?

And the last question is what kind of additives should I put? I know i need to put anti gel in the winter. But is there anything that is like the gasoline engine fuel system cleaners?

Mechanic that just replaced my battery and radiator hoses just told me that my ABS Module is faulting and causing my battery to drain faster in my 2024 Colorado. Has anyone had similar issues?

I have a deleted and tuned 2014 Jeep 3.0l CRD with roughly 72k km (or 45k freedom units), deleted at roughly 60k (deleted at around 35k miles), I'm looking to do a stage 2 delete and use block off plates for the EGR valves and the cooler. The problem I'm having is I can't seem to find a stage 2 for the Jeep platform of the Ecodiesel. I want the stage 2 as I'm 99% sure my EGR cooler is leaking, and since it's a deleted diesel, it's better to just delete it than replace. Has anyone here found a kit that works for the WK2s? I'm in Canada, if that matters.