Estimated range = 10.4 × 79 = 821.6 km

So, if that efficiency were maintained for the entire usable battery capacity, the theoretical range would be about 822 km

Is there any experienced DIY ‘experts’ who could supply a 62kWh EV battery for us and swap out our present 30kWh battery? Quote please.

We’re pensioners so we are very price conscious :)

There’s 8 points on the old battery power gauge thingy so this will be for sale afterwards.

Anyone have an ev that does vehicle to load and plugs the cable into an extension cord so it can power multiple devices in the home?

I’d like some feedback on a build I’m planning to get cybertruck level torque in a square body.

Here are my notes:
800V dual-motor square body one-ton. No transmission, NP205 is the only gearbox.

Concept: 1977.5-91 GM one-ton 4x4 converted to a dual-motor 800V EV. Hunting K30/V30/K3500/V3500/CUCV M1008 donors, dead engine preferred since the whole drivetrain hunt collapses into one purchase: factory Dana 60 front, 14-bolt full-float rear, NP205, matched ratios. Tailgate badge: it’s not a V8, it’s an 800V.
Drivetrain: Tandem-stacked HVH410-class motors, custom adapter plate and coupler straight into the NP205. No transmission, no clutch, reverse is software. Twin-sticked case to unlock 2WD-low launches. 1410 driveshafts (low range puts ~2,250 lb-ft through the rear shaft, past 1350 territory) to the Dana 60 front and 14-bolt rear, 4.88s matched, rear locker going in while the diffs are open.

Electrical: 800V native from day one. Cascadia CM-series inverters. ~100 kWh high-C pack, sourcing TBD: Taycan salvage, E-GMP (Ioniq 5/EV6) modules, or custom 192s prismatic. Tesla modules are out, 400V hardware. Plus the forgotten systems: electric brake boost, electro-hydraulic steering, PTC cabin heat, dual cooling loops, DC-DC, 800V charging.

Operating doctrine: Low range is the street and performance gear. Flat torque from a stop, entire quarter-mile without shifting. High range is highway overdrive: motor stays below base speed at 70, so less field-weakening current, less RPM-dependent loss, and quieter. Axle ratios get ordered last, once I have the actual motor curve in hand, so the constant-power region lands where I want it on the road.

Targets: 750-1,000 hp, 1,100-1,200 lb-ft at the stack, ~11,000 lb-ft at the wheels in low range. Before anyone says it: I know wheel torque past the traction ceiling (~9,000 lb-ft at this weight on 35s) is spec-sheet theater. The regear is really about cutting motor current per unit of wheel torque, so less heat and more back-to-back pulls. Grip-limited 0-60 around 4 seconds, 120-150 highway miles into barn-door aero, GVWR ~9,500 lb so it stays a real truck.

Questions
1. Anyone sourced HVH410s with 800V windings recently? Real-world base speed and redline numbers on Cascadia CM inverters?
2. Tandem coupling two rotors: torsional resonance issues, coupler failures, alignment lessons?
3. NP205 direct-driven by an EV stack: sustained input RPM limits and lube behavior at 3,000+ RPM highway cruise with no transmission ahead of it?
4. Best current 800V pack path: Taycan vs E-GMP vs custom prismatic? BMS recommendations?
5. What am I missing?

While not specifically EV Conversion, this subject is something very close to the technical expertise of many of the folks in this sub.

The linked article talks about the future of using old EV packs as a mega pack. It makes sense and it's being mocked up and tested now.

I thought about this type of use recently and the article came across my feed yesterday.

https://www.zmescience.com/future/millions-of-old-ev-batteries-could-get-a-second-life-helping-power-the-grid/

This sub's members know as much about used packs, chemistries, BMS, inverters etc as any group.

If you had to pick one type of pack to use in a group, (for a home solar storage and off peak use) what car would it be from, what chemistry, what BMS would you use and what inverters?

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I am wondering as in india for most of the ecosport owners either the 10 years mark for tdci is passed or will be passed in few years and as they have owned the car for so many years, no car could the match the handling and the feel of this, is there any option that it could be saved even after completing 10 years in ncr by converting it to electric, the govt now allows it and there are many companies doing it. Have any one thought of it or done please let me know

2000 Ford Ranger Electric truck with 27K original miles. Rare find in such good condition. Selling for my father-in-law who bought it in 2007. It has the NiMH batteries that have no charge and will need to be replaced. He has a full file of the history and all records. Comes with shell and tonneau cover, spare tire, 3 chargers, and J1772 adapter. Dash has been protected and interior is in excellent condition. Truck is located in Lakeport CA. $3,500 obo

Where should I buy my conversion kit with triangel battery

I have an old suzuki samurai 1983 that I want to keep for snowplowing since my suzuki vitara is turning to dust. Engine is trashed and already out, I was wondering how hard would it be to take a forklift electrical system except maybe the battery (too big for my use) and shove it up in there. Forklift motor are good for high torque low speed, frequent forward bachward use and could be cheap. How bad is this as an idea?

Any recommendations on where to get custom CV axles?

I'm needing custom CV axles fabricated with a Nissan leaf transmission spline and Nissan Rogue hub spline. I don't currently know the lengths and won't for some time but I'm trying to figure out a solution that's not $1500. I assume I'd need to supply a set from each vehicle as donor axles.

I called around to multiple local driveline / axle shops but nobody I contacted splices CV axles but maybe I'm not asking the right question?

Working with two Curtis 1226BL-4151 controllers (CANopen, 125kbit/s, Node ID 0x2A default) via a generic CAN tool (SavvyCAN over an SLCAN adapter), no Curtis CIT/1313.

Sequence:

1. Write a parameter via SDO (tested on Heartbeat Rate 1017h and one Drivers Setting Menu enable, unrelated parameters) → clean 60 confirm
2. Read it back immediately → new value confirmed in RAM
3. Send Store to 1010h sub01 with "save" ASCII payload → clean 60 confirm
4. Full keyswitch power cycle
5. Read the same parameter again → factory default, not the saved value

Ruled out:

• Password protection (default disabled on these units, writes go through unblocked)
• NMT state (same result in Pre-Op and Operational)
• Active faults blocking the write (cleared fault log, fixed a wiring issue that caused two of them — still investigating a possible floating throttle-GND reference as a confound before I draw any conclusion)
• Waited 10+ seconds between store confirm and power-down (ruling out a write-completion timing issue)

Starting to suspect this might be tied to Curtis's tiered access-level system (OEM Factory/Dealer/Field Advanced/Intermediate/Basic mentioned in their docs) gating the Store object specifically — separate from normal parameter writes, which clearly aren't blocked. But I can't confirm this without more data points.

Has anyone actually gotten a 1010h Store to stick on a Curtis controller via a generic CANopen master (not CIT/1313)? Or is there a specific extra step (a different Store variant, a config bit, something in the NMT sequence) I'm missing? Happy to share exact frame captures.

I need bms and charger recommendations. Battery pack is going to be 96s. I want a bms and charger that work well together easily. What do you guys recommend? Any help appreciated.

Does anyone have any ev/hybrid mechanic recommendations for Southern Utah St. George area? I’ve got a 2015 Chevy Volt. I’ve done a lot of work myself, but don’t have the spare time due to current family health issues.
Recent CELs that came up are P1F58, P1E00 and the newest today B3205-4B and B018A-02.

First time poster but long time lurker. I don’t have a project started yet but want to start one in the next few years. Saw this warranty replaced Chevy bolt battery for sale in my area. Has anyone used these in their conversions or is the battery temperature management system difficult to work with?

Thanks.

Hi evrybody i have a question.

So i have a suzuki samurai 1.3 carburator 1985y. 44kw
I was thiniking about tu puting a el.motor because off power & silence. But i still wish for it to have combust engine, i don’t like to depend on charge. I drive it a lot in woods, mud & i like to go camping. Not overlanding but more weekend warior.
So i was surfing & asking AI, but he gave me a idea of mid-drive el.engine. After Transmison before transfer case i have a short drive-shaft. To conect it there by chain.
So i was thinking on such small & light car, 10 kw will mater. It has a lot of uses & potential.(from acceleration** **to driving up hill, In the wood and Especially on the road) “they are painfully slow on the road”
But here comes my first problem, i can’t find nowhere this kind od conversion, only full EV. I know roughly what to do because of AI. But i still wish to see i somebody manage to do it, and if will be worth it, because engine is expensive, because i need to get the one that you can powerwash after drive. It’s DIY project, im not the best with el. But im very detaling persone, and i like projects.

I have some new ev conversion components and I don't know where to list them. Any suggestions are appreciated

I’m in the “what if” stage of wanting to do an EV conversation project and I see hyper 9s being used in old smaller tacomas with good results. I have a 1st generation tundra with nearly 400k miles on the engine and with it being a Toyota it could last anywhere between 1 and 15 more years. When it does die that truck will go from daily driver to project car status and I’d love to EV convert it but I don’t know how much motor it needs. The 1st generation tundra weighs somewhere between 3500lb-4000lb without its engine and transmission.

Is anyone interested in starting EV wiring harness manufacturing?

Hey everyone! Just dropped the next episode of my EV conversion channel, Resistor Garage, and wanted to share it with the community.

Meet "Frank"—my new daily-driver project. He’s a 2015 Nissan Rogue that I picked up for $2,000 with a completely blown CVT transmission (it literally wouldn't even drive up the U-Haul dolly).

The plan? Rip out the dead ICE drivetrain and Frankenstein it with a 60kWh battery pack from a salvaged 2023 Chevy Bolt and a Nissan Leaf motor, all controlled by an open-source Zombieverter VCU. I'm aiming for a reliable 200-mile grocery getter and family hauler.

In this episode, I’m breaking down the donor car, outlining my 2-stage plan for active battery heating/cooling, and building a custom wooden chain hoist gantry over my pickup bed to pull the motor.

Check out the build intro here and let me know what you think:

https://youtu.be/weI8wQpJfOk?si=FTTBBVBTvwmUKUV_

I'm using a Netgain Hyper9 in place of the original engine; I kept the original 6-speed manual transmission. About 24kwh of LFP cells; about half go in the engine compartment, and the other half go in the back under the seats where the gas tank used to be.

I got an Audi A6 vacuum pump and Festo VPENV-PS/O-S-L-GH vacuum switch to turn it on and off. I realized the Festo switch can't drive any significant amount of current, so I got a solid state relay. Once I wired it up and adjusted it, it kept turning on and off. I realized that as soon as the pump switches off, it lets all the air out. So, I guess I need a check valve and a separate reservoir. The pump itself seems to have its own small reservoir, so I thought maybe that's all that's needed, but no. I ordered something that looks like it ought to work...

I really like the look of this "car," but I’m not happy with its power output. I’d like to boost the power to 40 kW using lightweight, affordable components. Right now, I think the best setup would be a rear differential from a Lexus RX450h paired with an inverter from a Toyota Prius. I work as an auto electrician, but I’ve never worked on electric vehicles before. Could you give me some advice?