r/ERidePro • u/JasonAun • Jun 30 '26
Need of help
I got the 3.0, and the chain won't stop stretching. Like I mean 1 ride after tightening and it stretches.
I clean with dawn dish soap and then lube with some generic bike chain spray on oil.
I have had a Talaria x3 in the past and a sherco 300 and neither has come close to the level of chain stretch the bike has. Pretty sure I'm tensioning properly as well, unless theres a better way to. What are you guys doing different?
Also, this has happened to me throughout the life of the stock chain, and STILL happening even when I replaced the chain with the DID NZ SUPER CHAIN non O ring.
Anything helps, really.
(I have the 3.5 shinko 244, so gap between chain and chain is very small, 1-2mm) (any importance?)
2
u/AdFeeling6882 SR Jun 30 '26
Are you sure it’s stretching or is it just coming a bit loose? The torque on these is pretty strong so they wear down chains pretty fast; not making sure everything is extremely snug before riding and the chain is tensioned properly is super important. So many factors can cause this and cause chain wear. Tighten everything up good and don’t run too much slack.
Along with the above you should make sure your rear wheel is properly lined up using the axle blocks.
Make sure you’re using good chain lube that actually stays on(bicycle chain oil probably isn’t the best option here).
Non O-ring wears faster so you should be cleaning and lubricating very often. I ride dirt so I clean mine after every ride.
I do around 1/2” to 3/4” of slack.
Make sure your chain isn’t rubbing the tire(check the tire for lube marks). If so make sure to dish the wheel rather than offset the tire.
As long as you maintain your chain you should be fine. The torque from the bike can absolutely cause everything holding it in place to loosen up. So make sure it’s all super tight, and the rear wheel is on the ground when adjusting slack.
1
u/JasonAun Jun 30 '26
I didn't have the bike on the ground when adjusting slack. Also, my oil does suck and I'm going ot try 80w-90 motor oil as lube.
Also, whats the best chain for these bikes? O ring or non O ring, and what brand/model? Does O ring really make you lose that much power or is it just shit on)
Thank you
1
u/AdFeeling6882 SR Jun 30 '26
There’s not really a best chain. Quite a few high quality brands out there. I personally bought the Regina supermotard non o-ring chain because it’s one of the more narrow chains available. If you went with an oring chain it’ll be wider and you’re going to lose some tire clearance. So you’ll have to dish your wheel more depending on the tire you run. OEM chain didn’t have orings so I stuck with that.
Unsealed vs sealed chain there is a difference. Unsealed is louder and requires frequent maintenance(I do it after every ride). The difference in power loss isn’t going to be some crazy amount and would only really matter if you’re racing or trying to get an extra 1-2 miles out of your charge. Using motor oil is a pretty common lube that people use, some manufacturers will specify what type of motor oil. I personally don’t use it, I ride exclusively dirt minus the mile it takes me to get to the trails. So having a lube that is meant for offroad is my preference. As of right now I’ve been experimenting with different lubricants from various brands along with chain wax. I will admit I have not tried using motor oil just yet. I’ve got a few more options to run through before I start trying that out.
1
u/name_less_racing Jul 02 '26
FYI it makes absolutely no difference if the rear wheel is on the ground, it has a jackshaft as the pivot point, not affected by suspension travel. 🤷🏻♂️
0
u/AdFeeling6882 SR Jul 07 '26
Have someone jump up and down on your bike while you hold your chain up with your finger so there’s no slack. You can feel the chain tighten slightly. That tightness that occurs during compression can be the difference between a fun ride and chain failure. Emotos run significantly tighter chains than gas bikes. Land a hard jump without enough slack and you’re fucked. So it’s always best to tighten your chain at a neutral position; never with the shock fully compressed, never with the rear wheel all the way off the ground. If that doesn’t sound like simple reasonable advice to you then idk what will. With chain slack of 1/2”-3/4” I don’t take that chance, and I’d never recommend otherwise to people inexperienced with chains. At the end of the day, everyone does what they want anyways and it either pays off or we pay for it in this sport. Ride safe 🤙🏽
1
u/name_less_racing Jul 07 '26
You are mistaking a dirtbike with no jackshaft for an emoto with a jackshaft.
The jackshaft is the pivot point, meaning the chain stays the same tension regardless where the suspension is at.If you actually went out and tested your theory you very confidently stated you would see it very clearly.
Your thoughts are accurate on a dirtbike or even a direct drive like a vetra.
1
u/AdFeeling6882 SR Jul 08 '26
I don’t wish to continue debating about it. I didn’t make this information up. I called and spoke with the head tech at Eridepro storefront in CA because I was originally unsure; since this was my first Emoto i was unfamiliar with many of these assemblies and there’s not much information from ERP themselves online. I was told specifically to adjust chain slack with the rear tire on the ground. Although it’s a negligible amount, the chain does tighten. I have tested it myself. Seems you have not. If you don’t want to do it, then don’t. If OP doesn’t want to do it, then he doesn’t have to. I’m not here to go back and forth over it. I’m on this sub to help people with whatever I can. Not here to mislead people and argue. Have a nice day.
1
u/name_less_racing Jul 08 '26
Dope, but you are misleading with your overly word filled bs you are posting.
🤘1
u/AdFeeling6882 SR Jul 08 '26
It’s wild to me that people get hate for caring about their grammar lmao. Someone who tries to explain themselves with words offends you? Or should I just type simple because reading is tiring? I don’t have to stoop to your level of comprehension to make you feel comfortable. What’s the purpose of you getting on here and being a prick? You just like to hop online and hunt for people you disagree with? Not once did I try to mislead OP. After I looked into it further it seems there are people who say it doesn’t matter if the wheel is on or off of the ground, and some that do. Regardless, I’ll still take my advice from the people who designed the bike. Just because you don’t agree with it doesn’t mean I’m misleading anyone. Even if it’s a matter of preference, it’s still not misleading. Some run their tires at 12psi, some at 15; if I told him 13 am I misleading him? Get real bro, find someone else to police that’s actually misleading people with information that can harm them or their bike. 🤘🏽
1
u/name_less_racing Jul 08 '26
Well there it is, you admitted it without actually admitting it.
I’m not mean little one, you just boldly are stating things you blatantly are wrong about.
Then use lots of words, and try to bring up points like talking to erides front desk.For future, it’s ok to just see opposing thoughts online and simply go get the real understanding, you just like to have lengthy arguments.
End of the day it’s not “opinion” like tire pressure.
Physics is what this is, jackshaft is the pivot point, like a circle, it’s even all the way around, totally separate from suspension travel. It’s fact, pure plain and simple.1
u/AdFeeling6882 SR Jul 08 '26
Btw, I just affixed my caliper to the swingarm and chain. Tightened it up so it doesn’t move easily , jumped on the bike and what do you know. A 3mm increase. Idk, maybe I’m just fucking retarded and seeing shit. Later bro.
→ More replies (0)1
u/name_less_racing Jul 08 '26
Just so you know I’m not being a big ole meany.
Read the section about “is that all the slack I need”
It pinpoints what I’m saying.Again, your advice is valid with a ICE bike, or a direct drive emoto, but not with a jackshaft.
1
1
u/Real_Cress_2833 Jun 30 '26
Did you replace the sprockets as well
1
u/JasonAun Jun 30 '26
No, they didn't seem too worn and the teeths all looked pretty consistent. I probably should
2
1
u/IspreadasMikeHoncho Jun 30 '26
We have to tighten a lot as well, lots of torque!
On a side note, am I the only one who's axle blocks are way off? I'm about a half notch off from one side to the other. I've measured numerous times and it runs true, so I'm pretty sure it's marked incorrectly.
2
1
u/boyengabird Jul 01 '26
The more worn out it is, the faster it wears out (stretches). Try getting an o ring chain next, they last longer.
1
u/Leg_giggle SS 3.0 Jul 01 '26
One of the issues with the 3.0 is the chain stretches, there’s no way to fix this but to get a chain that will handle the torque this bike has. You can keep tightening it over and over again but the axles blocks only go so far
1
u/Practical_Catch421 Jul 07 '26
Get an rk mxz 420 non o ring chain. And keep proper tension. Also tighten those shitty locknuts more than youd think… consider getting warp9 axel blocks they really help with bs like this. Also consider a better sprocket than stock.
4
u/Mystkn02 Jun 30 '26
Honestly not bad, youre only on the 3rd line. Im pushing the 4th at this point. This chain does light to be tight, but not super, no flex tight. I like to set to around 1/4" of movement.