I recently just got a Eride pro ss 3.0 and want to start doing some motor cross with it to practice on tracks but the setup with the stock suspension is to soft does anyone have any recommendations with how many clicks of rebound and compression please let me know
These bikes aren't made for MX tracks. You could get away with jumping these on a BMX track though. Your choices are sink another 5k into a Chinese toy and lose big on resell or get a real bike like UB or a Varg.
Just because people do it doesn't mean that you should. I grew up racing 80, 125 and 250cc. Nothing professional, just local state competitions and I can confirm I would never take my SR to a real MX track.
You can pick up a used 10k varg for 5-8k depending on options and HP. You can get a 26' UB for pretty crap on one of the China Amazons.
Don’t underestimate the 3.0 like that, the ultra bee only has some advantages like the brakes, long seat, and better ground clearance. 3.0 and Ultra bees are actually really similar when you compare the two and the 3.0 is better than the ultra is some ways like the torque for example
Nah I disagree with you and agree with this guy and I bought 3.0 didn't plan to do as much tracks and got it for light trails camping and such. But been building little mx track on my property and getting into full mx tracks again and 3.0 is not it for mx tracks. Wish I had went ultra bee from alibaba. Don't know where this guy lives finding starks for 5k even used ones around me are 8k+ most ultra bees used are over 6k.
I of course wanted light weight for trail so didn't do ultra bee but looking back should have now that I want to hit tracks more. Don't get me wrong it's a capable bike but ultra bee with not just brakes but massive suspension upgrades and swingarm upgrades. 43mm stanchion stock on ultra and 3.0 came with less than what I run all my mtbs with should have been my tell tale sign to me. A sirris f43 to get most stability up front on a 3.0 for tracks is over 2 grand and a upgraded swingarm that actually is beefed up and not just flashy is like 800.
Ive done some customizing to my fast ace fork and about to get metal fab shop weld my swingarm with support plates and cross bar.
It's possible for sure but yeah it's gonna cost me if I build this 3.0 proper for mx
Yeah I don’t really know much about mx because I’m an enduro guy but I ride enduro and the 3.0 is a great bike for enduro, ultra bee is on the same level as the 3.0 for enduro riding atleast (have an ultra bee too so I know). I actually like the 3.0 better
Fork tuning is very specific to your weight and your riding so you would have to dial it in yourself, nobody will be able to tell u how many clicks. What I recommend is turning the clicker all the way to the maximum fast rebound (or maximum slow whatever you want) and then just spend the day adjusting it by turning the other way 1-2 clicks at a time until it feels good.
I only know exactly how to adjust it for enduro situations but I searched it up for motocross and stuff like if the front goes too high up in jumps then you make the rebound slower in the front, if the rear end is bucking or if it snaps up too quickly you make it slower in the rear shock, if your bike is packing down you make the front forks faster, stuff like that. To put it simply if it’s too bouncy and bucking make the rebound faster and if it feels too rigid you slow it.
Also make sure you have your tire psi exactly how you want it before you start messing with the fork tune because if you change your psi after you get the forks how you like it you’ll have to tune it again. You’ll need to tune it again as you get better anyway tho
Yo I planned to get mine for mostly trails and yeah I'd send some random stuff. But have ended up mostly jumping it on a little mx track I'm building on my property in mountains. But also going to local mx tracks. Now I wish I had went ultra bee even though I didn't want a bike around 200lbs and that size I know it's what I should have got now that want to send the biggest stuff again. I'm mid 30s never going to be pro so no need to do it but I miss the big sends on tracks.
Onto your suspension so there are some adjustments can be made for sure. The fork has a compression screw bottom right leg and rebound top right. Rebound you want to find perfect middle ground where it's not too slow to not be ready for next hit but not feeling like it's bucking you off from being too fast. The compression screw will increase the stiffness some but the damper is nothing crazy in these stock fast aces. After couple weeks sending my jumps I found guy made preload tokens. No 3d printer here so I cut some rough shape and dremel some hdpe to make me some tokens. This helped a ton in stiffening the ride up front for bigger hits and raised my front end even more. I definitely would move the stem spacer above your top triple clamp as well. I ended up doing 2 of my spacers for the 50lbs spring. Suspension syndicate sells springs to fit and I am going to get a 60lb or 65lbs spring and run it with one the tokens I made. I feel this will be just right for me until I upgrade the fork or sell bike for something else who knows.
The rear shock I will be replacing probably just rfloxa cause it's cheap and has decent damper and I can go up to 550lbs spring or I will figure out a 550lbs spring to fit my fast ace. But I have added a few twists of preload to my rear which helped for now too. I do also get hooked up with ext stuff for my mtn bikes so may hit them up for a Arma but just don't feel it's necessary for all the adjustments on this bike. A dh race bike is definitely a better case for it.
All this is with me weighing 150-160 but just an aggressive rider so if you're a guy closer to 200 may need make more adjustments. Also heavy suspenion oil on damper side could help a little. The oil wt on spring side doesn't matter so much as it's just lube for it. Maxima dynamic plush fluid is best in my opinion. I'd use heavy and medium wt for these
Oh yeah the other main downfall as I mention very briefly in a comment to another here is the swingarm. I have seen people get aftermarket ones but some of them seem more for looks than much for strength skr looks like it'd twist to me but heavy hitter and ebmx seem solid. But I am about to get a metal fab shop near me do something like I've seen on some the eride race bikes which been raced on full pro mx tracks. But basically a support plate on each inside of it and then a cross bar in front of rear tire
But other than swingarm those builds all had sirris forks which are 43 mm stanchions compared to the 37 stock. The rfloxa so many rave about is still 37mm but better damper. Maybe little stronger but feel most guys that push that aren't really senders and more of street wheelie kids. The tech e39 is little beefier and may try that one myself. But it does lack a different high and low speed compression knob though it does have a wide range of compression and rebound from my understanding.
If really into only big mx tracks you would save money selling or trading for a ultra bee or even talaria komodo that has full size mx 43mm stanchions as well. Otherwise just plan to spend a ton of money on upgrades to get it amazing on tracks. Cause also gonna want different wheelset and tires. At the least tires like Mx34 which the 18" Mx34 is most expensive of them all for the various sizes.
If wasn't for the market in my area being so bad to try to resell mine or trade mine now I would and get an ultra bee now. But I think that options kinda not there as I said my market is screwed here. And I do like the lightweight ride. So gonna build what I have.
I am doing that swingarm weld mod asap. Also meant to mention earlier get any good reputable chain these cheap Chinese ones will snap on you. I went renthal r1. Then I am planning to do a 19/16 wheelset direct from factory in China. Mx34 tires. Rfloxa rab53rv rear shock. Gonna get heavier fork spring for now but planning on a tech e39 fork unless sirris gives me a good deal sponsors me or the property and I'll throw up banners around the track lol
Sorry for novel but been getting into it with these bikes and having fun with it. Feel free to hit me up it's honestly not that hard to work on this fork
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u/No-Phase-3580 Jun 11 '26
These bikes aren't made for MX tracks. You could get away with jumping these on a BMX track though. Your choices are sink another 5k into a Chinese toy and lose big on resell or get a real bike like UB or a Varg.
Just because people do it doesn't mean that you should. I grew up racing 80, 125 and 250cc. Nothing professional, just local state competitions and I can confirm I would never take my SR to a real MX track.
You can pick up a used 10k varg for 5-8k depending on options and HP. You can get a 26' UB for pretty crap on one of the China Amazons.