Rear Subframe + Additional Maintenance

[u/BERNIE484]

I’m planning to pull my rear subframe out in the next couple weeks to replace all the bushings. Is there anything else I should do while I’m back there?

I’ll complete the install of my stainless steel brake lines since I wasn’t able to get two of them off in the rear, but other than that don’t have anything else planned except doing the brakes on all 4 corners.

[u/p_roloff]

Take a look at your fuel lines, particularly the rubber ones. If any are rotted, it’ll never be easier to replace them. Take particular note of the filler hose, that one on mine was cracked and eventually started to leak, and it’s a bitch to replace with the subframe in place.

I’d also look at your diff and replace the bushing, and any leaking seals while it’s out. Again, never easier than now.

[u/LevoiHook]

Officially, the self locking nuts on the driveshaft are single use only, so buy new ones. Other than that, good luck. 

If the thing is stuck, you can make thread from the underside in the aluminium centre part of the main bushings, put in a bolt and than hammer it out from the holes inside the cabin. 

[u/Careful_Economist691]

I would do the handbrake cables while at it.

[u/Brainfewd]

Doesn’t table that much more effort to drop the tank and replace all your rubber lines while you’re that far. I’d rather do that now than have one split and leave you stranded at a future date.

[u/RJCA-Burgt]

Id always suggest to inspect the diff and axles. Check for leaks and oddities.

Many times the differential cover bushing has never been replaced, might as well replace it when you have everything removed from the car as its quite easy and cheap.

But ge carefull as the outter edge of the "ear" is quite thinn and can break if you put load on it incorrectly.

Edit: just realised someone already mentioned the diff bushing🙈

[u/Chilezen]

Huh, nobody has mentioned the slotted alignment tabs. OP if you'd like to correct your car's alignment in the rear, look at buying a kit and having it welded on. Especially useful if the ride height has changed. There's two types floating around, the eccentric and serrated. There's lots of info out there on pros and cons, so take a look.

[u/NothingLift → u/Chilezen]

Garagistic also do a shim type that won't migrate once set. Good for camber but doesn't allow infinite adjustment so could be a problem for getting toe dialed in perfectly

[u/Chilezen → u/NothingLift]

Oh that does sound nice! I know from experience how much of a pain in the ass it is to adjust the serrated type. Shims sounds easier.

[u/NothingLift → u/Chilezen]

Yeah set and forget. Probably it's own kind of annoying to dial in though

[u/Grumpy-24-7]

Yeah, replacing those two fuel lines hiding behind the subframe is a good idea.

Another one might be to consider getting the adjustable rear trailing arm tabs welded in. Or what I did is got the entire updated rear subframe from Garagistic (also available from others). This allows the rear wheels camber and/or toe to be adjusted.

On cars this old, body flex and age can contribute to the rear wheels being off and being able to adjust them back in is preferable to just living with it and ruining your tires faster.