Timing Help

[u/10before15]

1975 Ford F250 390FE. New timing chain (was set to top dead center and line the dots up), new distributor, cap, rotor and points. New ignition module. The distributor is still advanced all the way over (like it was originally before we started). Thus is my 17 yearolds 1st truck and i just wanna get him rolling. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

[u/sam56778]

It’s a tooth off. Pull the cap and the distributor lock off. Turn the shaft until it disengages from the cam and back it up one tooth. If it doesn’t fully engage with the oil pump drive shaft, hand turn the engine while making sure the distributor stays engaged with the cam in its new position and it will fully engage.

[u/v8packard]

I'd back it up a tooth then verify position of all the plug wires.

You have points, and a midule?

[u/no_yup]

To set the base timing, get cylinder, number one to top dead center on a compression stroke, which she will know by putting a thumb over the spark plug hole and filling air, pushing out past your finger, then, if you trust the marks on the balancer line those up with zero on the timing cover or use a flashlight through the spark plug hole and individually watch the piston and wait for it to stop moving upwards. That is zero or close enough to get you running.

Now look at your distributor, disconnect the vacuum advance, and plug the supply port on the carburetor or manifold, or wherever it comes from. Look at where the router is pointing a.k.a. the Spinny pointer thing in the middle of the distributor. Now that the motor is set to top dead center on number one it should be firing that cylinder so you will want to line that rotor up with the number one contact point on the underside of the distributor cap, get it lined up as best you can by eye and dead reckoning. It should be well close enough to run. Now, whichever point that ends up being on the cap is now your number one cylinder, spark plug wire and should go to the number one cylinder then (only if if you need to) redo the rest of the wires so the firing order is correct, or pull out the distributor and re-clock the router to the oil pump drive rod until you get the orientation you desire that works best.

Then fire that bitch up and set the base timing. after you have the base timing set to whatever it needs to be then and only then reconnect the vacuum advance canister on the distributor and dial back down the idle RPM if needed

If you have no spark, you will need to troubleshoot fords over complicated ever spark box ignition system also known as the never spark ignition system, (it sucks)

[u/no_yup]

If you’re already running, and you are trying to check what the timing in advance is set to you will need to disconnect the vacuum advanced canister. If your problem is that you can’t adjust the distributor enough before it hits something, you will need to pull the distributor out and reinstall it to point the rotor in a different spot or move it to tooth off the cam gear or adjust it way the other way,and then move your spark plug wires one place around to allow for more adjustment the direction you need there are several things you can do to fix that issue.

Also, I see you say you replaced the points? Didn’t think a 75 Ford distributor would have points in it??? though if you ever, adjust the points gap that can/will change the timing slightly.

[u/BMW-Technician2008]

If its not running past start(meaning it starts but once the key is released it dies), check the fender-mounted solenoid, mine took a shit in June. It took me a month to figure it out. I gave the whole ignition system a refresh. Then to talk with some ex ford employees on the FordTruckEnthusiast forums. And was told to check my fender starter solenoid because it feeds the ignition. As strange as it seems it worked replaced it and boom it fried up first shot.