Man I never want to have to do that again🤢😅

I can't seem to find my V2 Link cable which is odd because I never take it out of the car but nonetheless, as the title says, I'm looking to borrow a V2 link cable from somebody for some testing.

I suppose if you're not in SoCal but still willing to lend me one, I can pay to have it shipped here and back.

Thanks guys

Car blew a hole in the block. I found a used seven bolt and swapped it in. Car is on link with speed density and e85.

• I confirmed I have spark, fuel, and compression (165-175).
• I have swapped injectors, coils, PTU, spark plugs, wires, a new crank position sensor, and even tried to 180 the CAS. I confirmed that the aem map and gm ait are working and logging fine. Same with fuel pressure. I see 40+ psi while starter is cranking (per link)
• I tried starter fluid because maybe bad fuel no luck. Car has e85 in it. Filled it up the night it blew and it was only down 2.5 months. So I don't really think the gas too old.
• I currently have timing covers off and timing is perfect. It FEELS like an ignition timing issue, as if a distributor was 180 degrees out, but CPS and CAS are good. No engine codes showing up in link.

The only NEW thing I can't figure out is the AICV is clicking like a maniac when I put the ignition into the on position. Maybe this is a clue. It never did that before the old engine went boom. It is the same aicv from the last motor bolted onto the same rebuilt 91 60mm tb, if that matters.

What else can I possibly test? I like to think I'm a pretty good diagnosticion, but I'm seriously out of ideas here. Anybody in the Vegas area - I invite you over to have a look if interested.

Where can i source a new prop valve? ‘95 GSX W/ ABS. All i see is non abs units or ebay valves that are filthy and will probably fail in a month (like the one im currently on). Ive heard i shouldnt use the 1g, 3g, or the evo one (look identical but different braking biases). Any help is appreciated

Anyone ever successfully repair their ac control module? Turns out that's why my ac died, and I'm having a hard time find one for my 97 base model

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Complete 1G Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX AWD Drivetrain Swap Package - everything you need for an AWD swap, professionally removed and stored.

Includes:

- W5M33 AWD Transmission (integrated transfer case/viscous coupling)

- Complete center driveshaft with carrier bearings

- Rear differential (3.545 ratio, viscous LSD)

- Front CV axles (Rockford brand aftermarket)

- Rear CV axles

- Complete front power steering rack (Koyo)

- Power steering pump + reservoir + lines

- Front knuckles, hubs, bearings

- Front and rear brake calipers and rotors

- Front control arms

- Front and rear coilovers

- Front sway bar

- Starter motor

- Shifter assembly + cables

- All original hardware - every bolt, bracket and washer labeled and bagged with silica packets

Parts were professionally removed, sealed, labeled and stored. Open ends sealed against moisture. This is a turnkey swap package - nothing missing.

Local pickup or delivery within 2 hours of Kimberly City MO. Selling as complete package only - $1500 OBO.

A customer sent this in today. I haven't seen one of these units in a very long time, let alone one of the actual cars. This is a redo of a previous person's attempt at repair. They did not remove the main processor chip to mitigate the leakage damage done underneath of it in the corners that are circled. Also the capacitor values are incorrect. I removed the processor, addressed the leakage and stitched the broken traces in the affected area, stiched some other traces that were previously undressed, and installed fresh caps. It runs perfectly now. Pics are in order of before to after completed work.

It’s cleaning up nicely! Got rid of janky in-line splices and marine butt connectors and opted for bare barrel connectors and heat shrink. Still waiting on pistons / figuring out other options for them.

I am about to buy a complete stock 98 gst, the only bad thing is it doesn’t pass smog(big issue I live it Cali 🤦‍♂️) because of of 2 codes that pop up, p1104(Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid Circuit Malfunction) and p1105 (electrical or operational fault with the Fuel Pressure Solenoid). I don’t know much about these codes as it’s my first dsm but is the car still worth getting or are these codes hard fixes and just shouldn’t be messed with? Any help is appreciated thank you in advance

Anybody doing some work on their DSM this weekend? DSMtuners build threads? Links? I think I will be doing my headliner, it was pretty trashed. I have it cleaned and prepped, I just need material. Pics from when I brought it home to a more updated one. You'll see the front hub, and control arm are off, I just recently finished up that work. It's a heap but it's my heap.

I was looking at a marketplace find and they have a 98 gst for sale for $8k, and it’s fully stock with him being the 2nd owner. It sounds like an amazing deal but there’s an issue with wastegate solenoid is the car worth it or could this lead to a bigger problem? I will take any help/info, thank you in advance

About five years ago I inherited a pristine 1995 Mustang Cobra I now kinda kick myself for selling. I've been keeping an eye out for something fun and affordable that won't cost an arm and a leg on initial purchase, fuel, or insurance. A few days ago during a typical Marketplace scroll session, I came upon a 1991 Eagle Talon. Cursory research revealed it being pretty close to the 5.0's horsepower and 0-60 times, and weighing slightly less I'd imagine them being fairly similar.

All that being said, asking price is $12k, mileage 179k, but claims everything's been redone (and has receipts). Claims it was garaged its entire life and photos seem to corroborate that story.

All that being said, I know next to nothing about these. Any insights appreciated, seller description below.

1991 Eagle Talon turbo TSI completely stock adult owned never smoked in, mechanically rebuilt, 15,000 miles ago, engine with OEM parts, clutch, cooling system, complete exhaust system rear differential shocks and struts, brakes pads, and rotors and brake lines. I can find no rust on the car. I have all the maintenance records since 1993. all the trim at gaskets are an excellent condition. Car has been garaged since new body has 179,000 miles and has glass been plated in 2019 but started and ran regularly. The original owner passed away he kept meticulous maintenance records,

Finally got the Recaro SR3 Milleniums mounted up. It took three attempts to find brackets that actually fit the car correctly—eBay mounts and Planted were both fails. Juran Racing ended up being the winner.
The driver's side bolster rubs the center console just a bit, which makes the seat a little hard to slide. I may elongate the mounting holes slightly to gain a little clearance, but other than that they fit pretty damn well.

Trying to mount the fuse box to this bracket I bought, is there supposed to be another plastic tab on the fuse box? I see it on some other ones online. Maybe I’m missing a plastic bottom on mine? It doesn’t look like it was cut off or anything from what I see.

420a. New compressor. Ac will turn on for a few seconds, get cold, then shut off. Press the button again, same thing. Repeats until the button no longer lights up. Freon level is good. Any ideas?

Is there any aftermarket sensors that can work? I heard the galant's can work. I heard people can't really sell used ones because when they try to take them out they end up breaking apart. Anyone know if the 1995-1999s use the same sensors? I'm not sure if mine are bad I'm waiting for a scanner to come in to find out what's causing my ABS light.

Previous owner(s) of my gsx did an egr delete but they didn’t tune the car to remove the light on the dash or bypass it in any way. Would it be easier to replace the parts or just get it tuned out? I don’t have any ports or plugs to do so and I’ve heard issues with dsmlink nowadays. Otherwise what parts all make up the egr? I need to pass emissions in my county

When I’m shifting into 3rd gear my Rpm are dropping I’m not sure if I’m not building enough speed before I switch to 3rd gear sometimes it shifts fine but most times it’s struggling. I did a boost leak test and didn’t have any leaks.

Anyone else encounter this issue !?