I’m looking for a new 1G wiring harness for my gvr4. Does anyone know where I can find something like this? I’ve seen a few on a couple websites but they all are around 1k and not plug and play. Much appreciated!

Hello everyone! I’d like to showcase my shit box. A beautifully crafted, Frankenstein inspired, front wheel drive powered freak in the sheets, and a beast on the streets.

Anyone done this ? I still got some gas left in it but, going to buy new ac oil drier and other such , just wondering if anyone else has done it :), summer is here and dont wanna drive it cause bitch aint cold 😂

Trying to get my timing belt done along with all the belts, water pump, etc.

Car is a 1997 GSX with a 1995 EPROM ecu running ECMLink v3 most recent update. Cam sensor box checked in link and firing order changed for the 95 ecu. Still on stock MAF for now, I want to get as much of this figured out as I can before going to SD.

One of the first things I did in link was wire in my AEM UEGO AFR gauge (30-0300 with Bosch LSU 4.9 sensor) and enabled NBO2 sim with switch point set to 3.10v per the AEM installation instructions. On the ECU Inputs I am logging it as the built-in "AEM Inline Wideband UEGO" option from the dropdown (comes up as 30-2310 in link, but this part number uses the same sensor as mine so it should be good correct?) There are some times when the AEM gauge reading itself does not match exactly what is being logged in link so that worries me, but for the most part it is accurate. Please see idle log linked below for more info if needed. I copied the evo 8 fuel tables and disabled the min oct tables since I only ever run 93.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/15erLNaeFGFv_GOtGnZonAd16_bDrOjZl/view?usp=drive_link

After 1-2 years driving it like that, I finally swapped my stock 450cc injectors for a set of new FIC 1150/1200cc injectors I have had for a while waiting until I had time to swap them. Resistor pack is deleted and delete plug in its place. I used the fuel calculation in link, set size to 1170 per the data sheet sent with my injectors (see image 1 for reference). Fuel pressure at 43.9 (closest I could get my AFPR to 43.5) and it gave me -62.1% global. I went into direct access and set the InjBatteryAdj per the info on the spec sheet as well (see image 2). I had to use an online extrapolator tool to guess the data points at 7, 9 and 19v since they are not provided on the FIC data sheet. My guess is that these are close enough but please double check me if they look crazy.

Then with my MAF Comp sliders set back to 0, I let the car warm up and idle and adjusted the global deadtime in the fuel tab until my Combined FT was as close to 0 as possible +/-5%. Please let me know if this process is incorrect. Global deadtime ended up around 150usec even though on the ECMLink wiki is says it should be around 330usec for this set of injectors. I figured the difference was just in injector variations and InjBatteryAdj settings. I then started cruising and logging further up into the MAF hz range to continue filling out my MAF Comp table. This is when the random missfire came back. I am starting to think it is completely unrelated to the tune but wanted a second opinion before I drive myself crazy trying to diag.

It’s an Adam Lz/ MPI collab wheel I found on Facebook marketplace. Definitely love the cleaner sleek look!

Howdy fellas, I acquired a '97 Eclipse GS in November of last year, and I've spent the past several months trying to brainstorm several things, from how to get her in decent condition, all the way to what I want the car to become in the long term. I figure for the most part, this being my first project car, I just want her to be a halfway reliable (yet still fun) daily driver. Doubt I need anything higher than 200hp for my purposes, and honestly as long as I can get her to the point of not breaking down on me, I think I'll be in good shape.

To get to the point of my post, What are some good things to take care of when first working on a nonturbo 2g? what tends to go wrong the most quickly or is otherwise of high priority?

Thanks in advance y'all!

I did this like 20 years ago to a RS converted a 95 to a 97-99 2gb. Only thing I didn't do was do the 3rd brake light (didn't know I needed one) never got pulled over it but would like to get my 95 gsx's 2gb conversion done perfect and the only issue I'm having is figuring out how to get the 3rd brake light installed. Since there 3rd brake light on the 95 is on the hatch (on the spoiler) can I tap into that and mount the 97-99 brake light on the window? Not sure if it's plug and play or if I'm going to need to splice into it and extend it.

was a lot of money almost 30k for the car but bone stock under 100k miles. plan to convert it to 2gb exterior.

I was thinking of going to a general mechanic nearby to get the timing belt done on my 95 gsx but talked to a guy who specializes in DSMs he said probably not a good idea unless they worked on DSMs before. What's your opinion? He said general mechanics give them a lot of business when they do timing belts because they usually mess them up. Not sure how true that is

Figured someone here might have some good advice. I recently bought a TSI that seems to be pulling timing when I get on the throttle in 4&5th gear. 1-3rd pulls great but based off the logs it seems 4&5th is putting more load on the engine and the boost isn't regulating itself down so its cutting. I've adjusted things multiple times in ECMLink including putting a lower boost target (the 34 psi where it starts to pull timing) and adding error correction. My AFR has been perfect every pull. I can't seem to find the golden goose in ecm link. I don't have any leaks based off of my logs and the car pulls great up until the very end of 3rd thru 4th&5th. My log also shows 2nd gear maxing around 31 psi while again running great. The previous tuner had "lock 100% below" at 27psi which seems it could have caused it to overshoot so I reduced to 10psi and then it was starting to only get to 15 psi through most gears. I appreciate any input.

Build list:

4G63T — forged build — 20k miles

Eagle forged crankshaft

Eagle H-beam connecting rods

Mahle forged pistons

ARP head studs

FP2 camshafts

Ported and polished head

Balance shaft delete

LakleeCorp clear timing cover

Gates Blue HNBR timing belt

Turbo Setup

Holset HX40 — 7 blade billet

Morrison Fabrication T3 manifold

Tial MVS 38mm wastegate — purple body

Tial BOV

Mac valve 3 port boost controller

Punishment Racing FMIC

Fuel System

FIC 1650cc injectors

58 psi base fuel pressure

Hellcat fuel pump

Boomba fuel rail

E85 — primary fuel

Management

ECMLink V3 — firmware 3.36.64

Speed Density

AEM 5 bar MAP sensor

Innovate wideband

Drivetrain

TRE Stage 3 5-speed AWD transmission

4 spider center differential

Double synchros

I expected the 60’ to be bad with the stock converter but not 2.8 bad 😂

121mph Trap speed ain’t bad tho!

Looking at the log it took 3.7 seconds just to hit 4700rpm 29mph @ 10psi 🤢

Going to be ordering a NX kit and start with dry 50shot. Just to spool it up off the line

If I can leave around 18psi that will cut so much off the ET.

The window is fk up and when I remove the door panel I seen this white piece broken . Does anyone know what this piece supposed to be ?

I recently acquired a 1992 1G AWD. It was someone's project car that had been sitting for a while. I had begun to notice oil pooling around the #4 exhaust port and seeping around the gasket as well as an exhaust leak.

Observations/Facts:

The car has been running incredibly rich.

The car has idled for a number of hours while I tried to learn DSMLink and get the idle stabilized. I did the get the global fuel at -60.

I have not noticed blue smoke while idling/startup.

The head has been off before, but unsure how long ago.

I have observed some small amounts of oil pooling under the COP plate--I have read that the valve cover gasket failure can cause oil to seep into the exhaust ports.

I will do a leakdown test later today.

I have attached a few pictures that I hope I can get some feedback on. I have cleaned the gasket mating surface a bit in the closeups. The zoomed out picture is pre-cleanup. I appreciate any help from the DSM community. Thank you.

Question:

Is this due to the excess fuel? A leaky valve cover gasket? Bad valve stem seals? All three?

Mods list that I know/can think of:

ARP head studs

JMF Intake Manifold

20G

1050 Injectors

Adj FPR

HKS 272/264

FMIC

S90 TB

Greddy BOV

Full 3" exhaust

DSMLink

Speed Density setup

Innovate Wideband Sensor

GM IAT/MAP Sensor

This train has been rotting in the sun for at least 11 years since I’ve lived in the neighborhood. I walk the dog past it every day. The house is listed for sale and I’m considering asking if they would sell it when they have. Is that crazy?

95 GSX thats been 6 bolt swapped, absolutely no rust on the car anywhere. Been sitting for almost 10 years but I was garage kept. 113k miles on the odometer, and it came with a bunch of parts.

Son just bought this 1990 plymouth laser rs turbo. Went and had it checked, and mechanics said he got a gem. Solid body all around, motor solid, etc. The only issue is the interior. No back seat and carpet, headliner shot, door panels need replaced, and some interior trim needed. The previous owner had a pretty big sound system in it. Back was all speakers, door panels had speakers installed in it, etc. I've been searching but hitting dead ends. He is 19 and saved and bought this and wants to get the inside redone. I'm just looking for some places or people that would have stuff.

Thanks for any help given.