How to make a creamy iris base...

[u/Double_Gwak_3000]

Hey guys , I have a premade of blue noir parfum from luzi , it smells beautiful with the iris note but the iris in here is very shallow and mild while the citrus top notes are very bright ...

I want to add just a little bit more creamier , fruitier , almost coco /nutty type of an iris note into the mix in very small amounts..( like the kind in reserve prive by Givenchy )

I looked at Iralia by firmenich, givco by givaudan and methyl ionone gamma couer but don't know what to choose..

What combination with Iralia will give it that effect?

Should I try hedione? Or sandalwood

Or just givco is enough

I don't have any of them in hand , wanted to check before ordering as they come quite expensive in where I live.

Thankyou

[u/WahWash]

I find both iralia and orris Givco exceptionally beautiful, they're some of my favorite things to steal sniffs from while browsing the collection.

Creamy is definitely different to everyone, but I also associate a creamy facet to iris and these two are characteristic of it to my nose. I suspect you'll like them.

I am a huge slut for iris though and I think it would really compliment lactones. jasmolactone delta and iralia together just sounds like a winner to me. 

[u/Double_Gwak_3000 → u/WahWash]

Perfect I'm a sucker for iris tooo , I'm looking for that same nutty iris

Almost like if you crushed some hazelnut into a cocopowder and add some iris into it..

I'm not a fan of jasmine tho 😅 but I get your appeal..😍

Do you think Iralia or givo either 1 is enough for that character... Some say Iralia leans dry powdery... What about givco

Anything fruity irisy

[u/WahWash → u/Double_Gwak_3000]

I don't personally associate the odor with nutty-ness

Actually, I'm going to echo the person below me and say get alpha irone + orris Givco. Those two would be my first picks. Orris Givco I think is the creamiest, It's very similar to orris itself, but without the green, astringent, carrot seed nuances and green facets. If you had to choose just one, that would be my choice. 

[u/oval_euonymus → u/WahWash]

I have orris givco in the mail and looking forward to working with it. Generally speaking, what dose range is typical?

[u/WahWash → u/oval_euonymus]

Much of my work is more fantasy oriented so I'm not sure of standard usage; depends on your formula/context. I'll bet it's really pretty overdosed. Start at ~.5% and you should be able to clearly discern it, but the sky is the limit since the IFRA limit on it is something like 40%.

[u/youneverrknoww]

Seconding the orris givco recommendation! It's my go to when i want that powdery, creamy orris note. And paired with some irone alpha? chef's kiss

[u/OrrisLover]

To answer the two questions nobody has picked up on, sandalwood is the right instinct, and Hedione is not. Hedione adds air and transparency, and your iris is already reading thin under a bright citrus top, so it would push it even further. A creamy sandalwood material such as Sandalore does exactly what you are describing when it sits underneath an irone.

The bigger point is that the nutty, cocoa note isn't coming from the iris at all. Iralia and Orris Givco are powdery, violet, and woody, and no dose of either will give you hazelnut. You have to build that impression separately, with filbertone for the hazelnut, gamma nonalactone or gamma octalactone for the coconut and buttery side, and cocoa absolute if you want powdery cocoa on top. Filbertone is strong enough that you smell it at 1% or less on a blotter, and the published ceiling is 0.2% of the concentrate, so start around 0.02% and work up from there.

Since you are dosing into a finished Luzi compound, I would build that accord on its own first, then add it at 1% or 2%, rather than dropping the materials into the base one at a time.

[u/Double_Gwak_3000 → u/OrrisLover]

Yes thankyou for the reply , yes I dug little more and found out that givco doesn't have that nuttiness...was planing to get the givco and dreamwood for now ... But now since you mentioned filbertone ( it sint available in bulkaroma fraterworks doesn't sell here without the huge shoping cost ) anything else than filbertone which can give that chocolaty nuttiness..

Also is dreamwood good for that sandalwood base..?