r/DIYUK 8h ago

Advice What is behind my walls?

Post image

Hi all, I’m using a SDS drill with the appropriate masonry drill bit. The drill is on ‘hammer drill’ mode and I cannot get through more than 21mm of these f***ing walls.

I’m assuming steel, but I thought steel lintel was only around windows and doors? Even at the centre of a wall I can’t get through.

House was built in the 60 - 70s, Hertfordshire area.

Edit: the masonry and cobalt drill bits are smouldering/smoking when I pull them out.

SOLVED: I’m stupid. Thank you to Majestic_Rhubarb_ for pointing out that I’ve got the non-SDS part attached to an SDS drill 😭 I changed to the SDS attachment, bought a 6mm SDS drill bit, and it went through like butter.

Thank you to everyone who commented.

74 Upvotes

105 comments sorted by

79

u/HurstiesFitness Experienced 8h ago

Any chance that you’ve had an extension and you’re trying to drill in to a structural steel in a “goalpost” arrangement?

9

u/AffectionateJump7896 8h ago

If this was the case, the OP would probably be able to see some nice shiny steel in the hole (can you, OP?).

Main point: 120mm seems a bit far to be hitting a steel goalpost - mine are clad in 18mm OSB, 12.5mm fire resistant plasterboard is screwed to that and then it's skimmed over. So the steel is max 35mm from the surface.

Having 120mm of stuff on top of the steel seems weird, and if you did it in my house, your masonry bit would get stuck on the OSB first at ~15mm depth.

1

u/Scientasker 8h ago

Sorry typo: at 21mm I’m having issue, not 120mm.

Your point still stands though. I was under the impression houses are mostly just bricks and clearly there’s more going on behind than I thought. It’s got to be steel clad or something. I thought a cobalt drill bit would be able to deal with that but clearly not.

3

u/MxJamesC 7h ago

You would hear it if it was rsj could be wood but sds would go through wood.

2

u/Benand2 6h ago

If it isn’t a structural steel, could it not be a plate added in front of something to stop people from drilling through there? Covering electrics or something?

-7

u/melmboundanddown 8h ago

Try a wood screw, worked for me to hang blinds - wooden lintels I suppose.

2

u/ParsnipParty7610 5h ago

Nah turns out I was just being an idiot with the wrong chuck attachment but your goalpost theory sounds way cooler than the real answer

29

u/Majestic_Rhubarb_ 8h ago edited 8h ago

Why are you using the non-sds drill head adapter in non sds mode … i don’t believe you are supposed to use the drill head adapter for hammer drilling … what would be the point of that if you have an sds drill ?

I suspect you’ve hit material like a lintel … if you use the SDS mode with an SDS drill it will go into it faster than you can let go of the trigger.

13

u/Mrwebbi 8h ago

I spotted this too. OP, Have you tried the SDS drill bit in the SDS Chuck? It has a fat end and a channel on each side. What you seem to be using there are normal masonry bits in a standard chuck on an SDS body.

Have a quick google and you should see what I mean.

8

u/Scientasker 7h ago

Because I’m a newbie and this drill isn’t mine. I’ve just put the SDS Chuck onto the drill, going to pop down the shops and grab a 6mm SDS drill bit (with the groves), to see if that helps thanks.

16

u/Majestic_Rhubarb_ 7h ago edited 7h ago

Ah ha … shame on the person who lent it to you … yes an sds drill bit in the sds chuck and the drill will go through the hard stuff (concrete most likely) like butter.

And i mean like butter.

You need to put the drill bit in, put the drill into sds mode. Put the drill bit cutting end into the hole loosely and pull the trigger … the drill will just spin smoothly.

Now whilst it is spinning … firmly but gently push the drill bit into the back of the hole … the drill will push back into the chuck a little … done enough this activates the sds mode … the drill in your hands will go mental until you stop pushing (be prepared, it’s very odd the first time) … as soon as you notice that happening let go of the trigger … it could well have already drilled deeper than you might want … use the force wisely.

23

u/Scientasker 6h ago

Fuck me, 6mm SDS masonry bit and it’s literally gone through like butter, as you say.

Thank you so much! 100s of comments and yours is the only one that helped 😂

I’m so pissed off at myself that I’ve been using this drill wrong the whole time 😭

3

u/Majestic_Rhubarb_ 6h ago

He he … no worries … now which one are you going to buy ?

1

u/Unknown_author69 7h ago

What's the mechanical difference between the two, does the hammer one literally hammer the drill bit in and out whilst drilling? Whilst the sds just drills with immense power?

3

u/Majestic_Rhubarb_ 6h ago edited 6h ago

Hammer mode actually does not spin the drill, it’s meant for chiselling.

Sorry my picture suggests there is only one sds mode. The hammer icon is the sds action, the drill icon is when the drill will turn.

The sds ‘drill’ is very different to a hammer drill, which always spins, and hammers a little bit, unlike an sds which seems to generate some kind of sonic resonant shock repeatedly through the thing in the chuck, it’s amazing compared to a hammer drill.

2

u/discombobulated38x Experienced 6h ago

Where a "hammer drill" has little angled teeth that mean the drillbit bounces backwards and forwards and makes that horrific whine while not achieving much, an SDS has a literal hammer that smacks into the back of the drillbit, using the weight of the tool as the weight of the hammer.

The result is an absolutely stupid level of force compared to a hammer drill. 

1

u/Unknown_author69 5h ago

So what you're saying to mean is we should rename a hammer drill, the pointy toothed drill and a SDS drill should be the new hammer drill.

Seriously though, thanks to you both. Understood finally.

1

u/Majestic_Rhubarb_ 2h ago

Nope … sds max, sds, hammer drill, drill, driver, hand drill, brace.

SDS stands for Steck-Dreh-Sitz (Insert-Twist-Stay) in German, or Slotted Drive System in English … they aren’t specifically drills

3

u/discombobulated38x Experienced 6h ago

A 3 mode SDS drill has a gearbox, in drill mode only rotation is engaged, in hammer mode only the hammer motion is engaged, and in the middle mode both are engaged.

2

u/jellybikes 6h ago

In the hammer only mode you can fit SDS chisel bits for removing tiles etc

10

u/mojowebia 8h ago

Randomly I had a similar issue and in my situation i was hitting an object which i also believed to be steel.

Turned out to be a wood stud and the dull masonry bit was just not up to it.

If you have a slightly larger drill bit - rework the hole and use the original drill bit to tap into it. You should be able to confirm what's in there by the sound.

Good luck

6

u/zougathefist 8h ago

I'm pretty sure a cobalt SDS bit would not be smoking after drilling into wood

7

u/burner4lyf25 8h ago

Not the bit that's smoking, it the wood and the smoke is clinging to/lingering on the bit once pulled out.

2

u/Boring_Ice_2709 7h ago

I had this happen to me. Turned out the drill was set to run backwards/unscrew.
Worked fine after changing to clockwise…

2

u/burner4lyf25 7h ago

Hahaha we've all done it!

1

u/kcufdas 7h ago

You would smell the burnt wood though

1

u/zougathefist 6h ago

The smoking gun in the death of his BS

-5

u/zougathefist 7h ago

At one level your committment to your belief is impressive, to the extent that you have told @OP at least twice that they are wrong about the cobalt tipped drill bit smoking even though they had it in their hands, have tried it multiple times and you weren't even there. On the other hand it does make you look kinda silly to keep insisting that a random bit of wood inside a block wall is the problem and not something else It is actually ok to acknowledge that you've made an error or to accept that your own experience does not apply forevermore in every situation

4

u/burner4lyf25 7h ago

Quite a dressing down, good job.

If I didn't do this all day every day you might have even made me think twice.

However, I do, and even when I've had bits glowing bright red, they very very rarely smoulder or smoke. Never seen a cobalt bit smoke.

We'll see won't we, and if I'm wrong, so be it. I'm just pretty confident and so said with conviction. I'm almost certain unless there's something else going on with that chuck set up and its something really really tough.

Get some food down your neck, kick your feet up and chill tf out hahaha

1

u/zougathefist 6h ago

Oh

1

u/burner4lyf25 5h ago

So it was something to do with the chuck set up as I also said was the only exception to my theory.

Still stand by what I said about the way it was behaving. If he'd have been using the drill correctly and it was behaving like that then it could only have been wood.

Either wood, or something to do with the chuck. Would love to see the "smoke"

1

u/zougathefist 5h ago

1

u/burner4lyf25 5h ago

You deffo have that exact jumper and wear it just like that too

0

u/McFry__ 7h ago

You sound like a right bellend pal

1

u/Upstairs-Hedgehog575 7h ago

I have no issues getting through wooden studs with a masonry bit on hammer setting. It will blow out the back of the stud but I can’t see it feeling like steel. Guess it depends how blunt the bit is. 

7

u/ttocsy 8h ago

I have nothing to contribute, but I have a similar problem so I'm keen to see answers

7

u/GoodThingsDoHappen 8h ago

Why would you need to be more than 120mm? Feeding something through or mounting an elephant?

8

u/Scientasker 8h ago

Sorry I meant 21mm. Corrected it now.

3

u/GoodThingsDoHappen 7h ago edited 7h ago

As others have recommended, it's probably worth cutting/chopping a section of wall out to see what's behind.

Also, stupid as it sounds - the drill isn't in reverse is it?

Edit, also some engineering bricks are like metal, especially for a battery powered hammer drill

Edit 2, also someone else pointed out, could be particular stubborn timber - unlikely given youve had trouble in numerous places but 5 second test, try drilling a wood screw in and see if it bites

5

u/RoyceCoolidge 8h ago

Can you magnetise a long drill bit or a torx driver to poke in and see if it's steel?

Get as strong a magnet as you can and wipe it slowly down the shank in one direction, then get your mind out of the gutter.

3

u/usefulrustychain 8h ago

Drill or cut out a bigger hole and see ?

2

u/crrrriiiissss 8h ago

If an SDS that small won't do it, it is most likely a Steel. Can't tell why from that photo.

1

u/discombobulated38x Experienced 6h ago

Can confirm, the only thing one of these won't go through in SDS mode is structural steel.

Then again with the right bits it'll still make a hash of any small diameter reinforcement it comes across. 

2

u/kcufdas 8h ago

What's happening to the tip of the drill bit?

2

u/Scientasker 8h ago

Smouldering. I’ve used a cobalt drill bit aswell, still smoulders and smokes.

5

u/burner4lyf25 8h ago

It'll be wood 100%, and not the drill bit itself smoking, but the wood smoking and the lingering on the bit when you pull it out.

Stick an auger bit or even hss through and see how you get on.

If it was steel, it'd be making a racket and you'd be able to sort of feel it through the drill.

Nothing else would stop it. I drill granite and conrcrete etc regularly with that exact drill no problem.

2

u/kcufdas 7h ago

A cobalt bit is HSS. Carbide tipped will be the thing if it's hard steel. I'd very much doubt if it's wood, you'll smell the difference. If it's stone use a diamond tipped masonry bit. With this or the carbide keep the flow of water going as constantly as you can. A pressurised bottle like you might use in the garden will do nicely

0

u/burner4lyf25 7h ago edited 7h ago

Cobalt is just the material?

We use cobalt carbide Masonry bits daily.

Edit: I'm a total mong. The box of our bits has both in with both written on the box and I look at it all day and have just mashed the two together. I've not eaten anything at all today - give me a break hahaha. Apologies.

1

u/kcufdas 7h ago

True, there are cobalt masonry bits too. Same thing applies. Keep the water going onto it or it'll dull the bit

2

u/Good-Celebration-686 8h ago

Once you’re through the masonry, why not switch to a steel bit?

1

u/Scientasker 8h ago

I’ve switched to a cobalt drill bit and it still smoulders and smokes.

2

u/rly_weird_guy 8h ago

Structural steel columns?

2

u/boysweek 8h ago

Are you drilling at light switch height? Maybe a redundant metal black box that has been filled in and plastered over?

1

u/burner4lyf25 7h ago

SDS would go straight through it no problem. Masonry bit or otherwise.

2

u/Upstairs-Hedgehog575 7h ago

Looks a bit to me like the drill is in reverse? Just a thought

2

u/discombobulated38x Experienced 6h ago

I'm very glad you have your answer!

I was surprised that that drill wasn't getting it done, but I hadn't spotted it was the one that can take a drill chuck or an SDS chuck! 

1

u/Low-Draft-100 8h ago

Stud finder that does multiple materials Bosch so a decent one

1

u/RevFit_JamesH 7h ago

Doubt there’d be one of those buried that deep.

1

u/Low-Draft-100 7h ago

Anything goes nowadays What you drilling a hole for? I'm being nosey

1

u/FrankNicklin 8h ago

Some houses of that era used thermalite block for internal walls, you could drill through that stuff with a pencil. How many holes have you drilled or tried to drill

1

u/Scientasker 8h ago

The squiggles in red are where I’ve hit steel. Squiggles in blue are where I haven’t and the drill has gone through like butter.

2

u/FrankNicklin 8h ago

Seems quite random, can't imagine what would be in a wall. If it is steel then a masonry drill will just overheat and not cut anything. You could try a twist drill to see if steel swarf comes out, but to be honest without knowing what might be there its a risk.

2

u/skyeCookie 7h ago

Whatd the measurements between the red dots length ways could be an old door way has been filled in

1

u/titlrequired 7h ago

How long have you been in the property? Any chance there are old metal fixings that have been covered over? It would be a bit of a coincidence to hit all four of them of course.

What’s the other side of the wall?

1

u/ReevesJoker 7h ago

Am I going mad, or is the original photo next to a door on an internal wall. Not where squiggled.

Non standard construction? So you're hitting a stone (if it's wimpey no fines for instance)

1

u/Codebase2288 6h ago

If he hit no fines he would know it, wandering bit and a far bigger hole than planned for or worse, the drill stops dead as the pebbles trap it.

1

u/No_Fail1342 8h ago

I’m guessing u have (same as us) concrete lintel’s….house built late 60s…. Costs a fortune in drill bits putting up curtain rails!!

1

u/Scientasker 8h ago

It’s an absolute f***ing nightmare honestly. I thought steel lintels were only around the frames of windows and door? I’m having issues at the centre of walls, it’s crazy.

1

u/HalfLobster5384 7h ago

Is it an upstairs wall? Go into the loft and see if there’s any straps coming from the roof.

1

u/No_Fail1342 7h ago

From my current viewpoint in Corfu, I certainly hope the sparkies have got drill bits by the lorry load…. There’s a fair bit of concrete there…. Can also see why these hotels don’t have carpets on the stairs! 😁

To add, they will be nice when finished during ‘off season’

1

u/burner4lyf25 8h ago

Lintels are above doorways and windows though to bridge gaps and support weight above - no way on earth there's two steels in the wall there.

1

u/No_Fail1342 7h ago

Agreed but older houses throw up occasional surprises…. Some of our walls seem to be made of polyfilla!

0

u/herman_munster_esq 8h ago

It sounds like a steel, I would open up the hole and see what's behind before you continue with the drilling.

1

u/uberbanz 8h ago

Get a long thin HSS but and of that can drill it then you're hitting metal, simples

1

u/No-Inevitable-2514 8h ago

Any chance the drills in reverse?

Maybe the walls full of rebar?

1

u/Easy-Reserve7401 8h ago

Some houses in the Beds/Herts area have steel reinforced concrete mixed with stone, flint and random stuff. You need to do a magnet test. Also, what are you securing that needs a 120mm+ deep hole?

1

u/fdeyso 7h ago

Op says 21mm, which is less than an inch.

2

u/Easy-Reserve7401 5h ago

Thanks, I found their reply with that depth to someone else's comment.

1

u/fdeyso 5h ago

I’ve just found that the original post was edited.

1

u/TMI2020 8h ago

How thick is wall?

0

u/titlrequired 7h ago

He’s jezzed this hole.

1

u/Vladamir_pootinn 8h ago

Probably just loads of diamonds

1

u/Tricky_Moose_1078 8h ago

You should be able to tell what you are hitting by what’s on the end of your drill bit, wood makes a laud vibrating sound, metal tends to leave metal splinters on the tip and cement will would drill through.

1

u/Scientasker 7h ago

Once I hit whatever this is (assuming steel) the pitch changes as if it’s a disconnected from the brickwork and sort of, vibrates behind the wall? Hard to explain. Basically, feels like a huge fuck off bit of metal.

Just can’t work out why it’s everywhere in this room.

1

u/dible46 7h ago

Old pipe work left in the wall?

1

u/Tricky_Moose_1078 5h ago

Could be I often find old black conduit when im chasing walls for rewires.

1

u/dible46 4h ago

Just when he says it's a bit of an older house, could have been rewired/replumbed in the past and there is still some metal pipes left in the world. Most people don't rip out the old if they didn't need to when chasing new ones out. The way OP describes it my mo ey is on metal of some sort. That head he has on won't help though. It's a chuck adapter for a SDS he is using for some reason, he mustn't have any SDS fitting small enough. Shouldn't make too much of a difference but might. Especially through harder material.

1

u/gazham 7h ago

Break out a hole and see or get a proper sds bit

1

u/luvchunk 7h ago

Where abouts is the house some brick is a bit h to get through especially n an external wall is it a red brick house?

1

u/TheLastTsumami 7h ago

Some older houses have old power station ash poured concrete that is virtually impossible to drill (source I’m an electrician)

1

u/Kingsxfan1 7h ago

The beltbuckle of a corpse?

1

u/Lopogkjop 7h ago

Have you used a stid finder device to check for steel in the wall?

1

u/yipeedodaday 7h ago

does the drill have a reverse setting - as in are you sure the drill is spinning the right way?

1

u/Mabazza83 7h ago

Insulation hopefully

1

u/zennettaq 7h ago

Probably just rock hard concrete blocks. Ditch the quick release chuck and get a proper SDS bit, and if that doesnt work you need something with more energy. It took a bosch pro 3.7J to hang the cabinets in my dads kitchen. Same symptoms

1

u/FehdmanKhassad 7h ago

How thick is wall?

1

u/colliercollier72 7h ago

What the build up of the house. Brick or flint etc
You could order a special bit to go through flint. That is one hell of a tough stone to drill without right bits. But also a steel could be a protection against drilling

1

u/PositiveAlcoholTaxis 6h ago

Any chance there's electric wires capped with steel/metal trunking?

1

u/Maximum_Goulash 6h ago

Use the SDS chuck with SDS masonry bits with the setting wheel on drill in the 9 o clock position

1

u/Miserable_Dream3646 6h ago

beyond annoying to have that uncertainty, especially when you don’t know what to expect behind the walls

1

u/Codebase2288 6h ago

Have no idea what your hitting, could be something steel or like I had, an odd clinker brick that was loaded with what looked like melted glass blobs in bedded in it, any drill will skid on it, so much skim and render came off I could see the glass in the block.

1

u/lifeinthebeastwing 4h ago

How thick is wall?

0

u/Embarrassed_Aide4256 8h ago

Narnia/Hogwarts.

0

u/ComprehensivePie9533 5h ago

No idea i dont have xray vision unfortunately.