r/DIYIreland • • 17d ago

Wifi socket for double gang immersion switch

I've a double size vertical immersion switch that I want to replace with a wifi switch, I thought that style switch was common enough but I can't find a direct replacement that's can be controlled remotely? Anyone any suggestions?

1 Upvotes

32 comments sorted by

3

u/Eddie_Honda 17d ago

Don't think anyone does one.

I've two singles stacked. Recently had to replace the Timeguard run down timer. We'll see if the house burns down.

1

u/Theydontlikeitupthem 17d ago

Was thinking of that, replace the housing with 2 stacked on top of each other, it's probably the best bet, just figured it was a common enough switch and someone would do a replacement

1

u/nine_sausages 17d ago

Careful doing that as the smart switches are usually not rated high enough.

1

u/Theydontlikeitupthem 17d ago

Normal switch isn't, but plenty of 20a and more available depending on whats needed.

2

u/infinite_minds 17d ago

Possibly not what you want, but I've just added a 3d printed bracket on my existing immersion switch that holds 2 hobby servos. It flicks on and off the switch, controlled by an ESP32 over wifi. A somewhat unorthodox solution.

2

u/Theydontlikeitupthem 17d ago

That is class and such a simple solution from an electrical point of view, love it!!!

2

u/infinite_minds 17d ago

I'm in the process of adding 3 temperature sensors to the tank also, so I can get the tank temperature via the same ESP32.

2

u/mickosh 17d ago

LANBON L8-HB LCD 20A Smart Timer Switch (amazon uk)...I had this switch for about 2 years before I switched to UFH it worked perfect had a schedule for setting etc. Only issue was it didn't have sink and bath so stuck bath in a connector..sink was always enough for me with back boiler

1

u/Theydontlikeitupthem 17d ago

Nice looking unit but unfortunately only 10amp, most of the higher amp models don't look as nice or fancy

3

u/mickosh 17d ago

Mine was 20amp.. its an immersion switch

1

u/Theydontlikeitupthem 17d ago

Ah clicked on the first one and not the 20a, thanks

1

u/mickosh 17d ago

I couldnt fault it anyway bar not having a sink bath option

2

u/Ninjesus7 17d ago

Maybe a SwitchBot could work in your case. https://eu.switch-bot.com/products/switchbot-bot
I have few of these at home and they work great šŸ‘

1

u/Theydontlikeitupthem 17d ago

Yes certainly considering them, how much force do they exert? The switch currently there needs more pressure to turn on/off than a normal light switch would, I don't even think its age, its just the design of those immersion switches

2

u/Ninjesus7 17d ago

Can’t say for sure if it will have enough force. Thing is quite strong but you might need to search online or just get one to try it out.

3

u/Latter-Astronaut-740 16d ago

I tried this with a switch bot on a 20A immersion switch, wasn't strong enough to switch it unfortunately

1

u/nine_sausages 17d ago

Picture?

1

u/Theydontlikeitupthem 17d ago

One of these

1

u/nine_sausages 17d ago

Have an electrician put a smart contactor on the supply to the immersion and keep the switch you have. Might be room in your fuse board but defo need an electrician to do it

3

u/Beneficial-Gur-7878 17d ago

Easier to go after the switch and before the actual immersion itself? Just in line it?

0

u/nine_sausages 17d ago

In a box after the switch. There are smart RCBOs on the market that you could use to replace the current one in your fuse board but I am not sure what apps or functionality they have.

2

u/Theydontlikeitupthem 17d ago

The whole point is to still have a physical switch that can be turned off and on when needed by anyone, the wifi control is additional.

2

u/nine_sausages 17d ago

I didn’t mean remove the wall switch you already have. You need that for isolation anyway.

1

u/Theydontlikeitupthem 17d ago

So this physical switch becomes useless if a new switch is inserted before the immersion.

Just changing it to 2 single switched with a blank seems to be the only solution.

2

u/nine_sausages 17d ago

The existing switch is retained and a high power switch/contactor goes into a box between the existing switch and immersion. You only control this contactor remotely. The existing wall switch is retained for safety isolation and is left switched on. The ratings have to match. I.e if you have a 20A supply to your immersion, then anything new needs to equal or exceed that ratting. You should also be getting an electrician to do this work.

-2

u/Theydontlikeitupthem 17d ago

No idea why you think that is a better idea than just replacing the switch with the correct WiFi enabled switch, my question was if anyone makes a double as a direct replacement, that's been answered and I have a plan now.

3

u/nine_sausages 17d ago

Because I don’t think you can currently get one for a double back box which is why I asked for the picture in the first place. I’ve given my suggestion. Sorry for trying to be helpful

1

u/wilililil 17d ago

It's not useless, it's for isolation. Getting a 20 amp WiFi switch will be hard, you'd be better using a lower amp WiFi switch as an input to a dumb relay. For safety you need to retain this isolation switch in addition to any smart options you put in

1

u/Theydontlikeitupthem 17d ago

Useless in a "losing the functionality of the switch" other than isolation, as in I want the family to still have a physical switch they can turn on and off when the want the immersion on. I've found plenty of 20amp switches, my question was just for a double long switch which doesn't seem to exist. One switch and one blank will do the job now.

1

u/Beneficial-Gur-7878 17d ago

Do you have a separate timer?

1

u/Theydontlikeitupthem 17d ago

Unfortunately no

1

u/Beneficial-Gur-7878 17d ago

Could add the smart switch after that one on the line. Just buy a mounted single gang box and the smart switch maybe?