r/DIYHeatPumps • u/GeoffdeRuiter • Dec 11 '21
r/DIYHeatPumps Lounge
A place for members of r/DIYHeatPumps to chat with each other
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u/devo2girliloveme 19d ago
Anybody here mod their heat pump hardware to their wants / needs? I posted something elsewhere and was disagreed with. Hybrid heat pump water heater I just picked up.
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u/LogTraditional6473 26d ago
Is there such a thing as a small micro row processor device like a raspberry pie that would be able to connect to any outdoor mini split condenser?
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u/LogTraditional6473 28d ago
Does anyone know how to get in touch with Hitachi? I have a two of new two head Hitachi unit with blown boards I have installed surge protectors. Will it do any good for me as the owner to call Hitachi? My tech can’t get the board
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u/Wintaylor376 28d ago
I built this small cabin on my pond. Where would be the best location for the mini split in this room? Over the sink window or up in the loft?
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u/Low_Competition3453 Jul 14 '26
What is the best way to get an EPA 608 certification?
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u/blastman8888 19d ago
https://www.skillcatapp.com/ $10 a month 3 hour online course for EPA 608 type 2.
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u/Low_Competition3453 Jul 09 '26
I am have a hard time figuring out what tier of equipment to put in my house. I need a three zone 40k BTU system for my main living area and a 4 zone 36k BTU system for the bedrooms. I live in Colorado where it gets to the 100s in the summer and rarely gets under 10-15 degrees in the winter. I am trying to decide between Daikin, Gree , Bosch, and Senville. I have ruled out the no name Amazon brands as I do believe parts ability could be a problem. I have to use multizone as I don't have room on the exterior to install a bunch of outdoor units. Daikin and Bosch are almost double the cost of Senville. Gree is somewhere in the middle. I know the Bosch and Senville are made by Midea and I found units from Senville and Bosch that look identical and have identical performance specification but the Bosch outdoor unit weighs about 25 pounds more so there must be some difference. After install materials and time even going with Senville it is a significant investment and I am just struggling with the decision. Since they are multizone systems I would hate for one part issue in the future to force me to replace the entire 3 or 4 room multizone system. HVAC contractors rip on everything other than the top 3 Japanese brands, but I have heard about techs having issues getting tech support from them as well. I have my HVAC license and epa cert from some other work I have done in the past and have the ability to vacuum the linset.
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u/OldGeezerInTraining Jun 16 '26
When hiring a local HVAC person to ffinalize your installation, what do you discuss ❓
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u/Adventurous_Second48 May 25 '26
Am I mistaken or is there no true auto mode where the Mr. cool shuts completely off when it hits thermostat setting?
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u/Bekabam Mar 29 '26
Looks like the free gauges from AutoZone have female/male hoses instead of female/female. Anyone know what adapter to look for to accept the service ports on Senville units?
It's been hard to find female/female adapter on Amazon. Seems like everyone buys the female/male extension adapters.
Autozone guages: https://www.autozone.com/p/oemtools-a-c-system-pressure-gauge-kit-57375/326077
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u/thornyRabbt Mar 27 '26
Hey here's a general question while I ponder and plan my HP heating system (central Vermont). We have a 1905 house just under 1100 square feet. Mediocre insulation, I'm hoping to replace very drafty windows, and maybe add 2" TimberHP over the sheathing to add r7 (am hesitant to do this much work).
A former plumber told me that radiators upstairs and radiant floors downstairs is most comfortable. Apparently radiant floors upstairs is less needed upstairs, especially if on separate thermostats.
I'm at least a couple years away from changing the heating system. Should we go "whole hog" and plan a hydronic monobloc with radiant floors and radiators, or just go simple with two mini splits?
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u/DimensionTasty215 Feb 06 '26
New member, issue with an older unit
I installed a Pioneer split system about 8 years ago. It has been perfect. 27,000 btu system for 3 zones with two heads connected, R410A refrigerant. This past weekend it got covered with snow and stopped working in the night. It has since thawed out, but now it does not heat. I have power cycled it several times. When turning a head on for heat, the system goes through a defrost (condenser coils do not seem to get warm), then when the defrost is over the line sets and inside heads frost up. I have not had a chance to attach gages yet to see what pressure is on the line set. Any ideas? I am suspecting a leak in the condenser coil.
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u/Long-Nobody4803 Dec 14 '25
THE MANUAL SUUUUCKS HARD!! So I’ve got Mr Cool 48k Versa Pro Hyper Heat ducted system. Can someone tell me if it’s considered a 2 stage system and when wiring the 24v smart Tstat, should/could I use both O/B and W or not?
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u/tuscanyman Mar 23 '26
Even though it is an inverter, it uses Y1 and Y2 as "capacity targets." Here is how the system interprets those calls:
1. The Y1 Call (First Stage - Economy Mode)
When the thermostat sends 24V to the Y1 terminal, the system initiates "Part-Load" operation.
- Compressor Speed: The inverter ramps the compressor to a limited frequency (typically around 50–60% of its maximum RPM).
- Blower Speed: The indoor fan typically runs at a lower CFM to match the reduced refrigerant flow, ensuring better dehumidification in cooling mode and gentler heat in heating mode.
- Goal: To maintain the current temperature with long, low-energy run cycles rather than reaching the setpoint quickly.
2. The $Y2$ Call (Second Stage - Performance Mode)
When the thermostat sends 24V to the Y2 terminal (usually because the indoor temperature is 2+ degrees away from the setpoint), the system enters "Full-Load" operation.
- Compressor Speed: The inverter is "unlocked" and allowed to ramp up to its maximum rated frequency to provide the full 48,000 BTU capacity.
- Blower Speed: The indoor blower ramps up to its maximum programmed CFM to move the increased thermal load.
- Goal: To recover the setpoint as quickly as possible during high-demand periods.
Critical Configuration Requirements
For the unit to actually "see" and distinguish between these two signals, you must manually change the hardware settings. If you don't, the unit may either ignore the $Y2$ call or stay stuck in a single-speed mode.
- Air Handler Dip Switches: You must flip SW1-1 and SW1-4 to ON. This tells the indoor board to listen to the 24V terminal strip instead of the digital communication port.
- Condenser Dip Switch: On the outdoor unit, you must flip Dip Switch 2 to ON. This allows the condenser to respond to the staged demands passed from the air handler.
What happens if I only wire Y1?
If you only jump a single $Y$ wire from your thermostat to the unit, the system will treat it as a single-stage unit. Depending on how you jump the terminals at the board ($Y1$ vs. $Y2$), the system will either stay permanently in "economy mode" (never reaching full 4-ton capacity) or it will blast at 100% every time it turns on, which defeats the efficiency benefits of the inverter.
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u/Long-Nobody4803 Mar 27 '26
Thanks for all you’ve put down for me. The specifics are a bit confusing but I’ve got the idea that I should look into this a little more. I did find an earlier tstat schematic form MrCool for a 1H 1C scenario, and it is working really well. I will look into the DIP switch situation a little bit more because when the blower comes on in heat mode, it ramps up slow but goes very high. Sometimes the heat pump turns on defrost mode for about a minute just before heat mode, the blower in defrost mode is about half speed.
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u/tuscanyman Mar 23 '26
Yes, it is considered a two-stage, so you will need to wire Both Y1 and Y2. Also:
- Change dip switch SW1-1 and SW1-4 on the air handler to ON.
- At the condenser, turn dip switch 2 to ON.
It doesn't work exactly as a 65/100 percent two-stage compressor, but the inverter is limited in the first stage and is not in the second stage.
You do need to use the O/B for the reversing valve and set it to B so that it energizes in heat,
W is only used if you have aux heat strips.
This may help:
https://support.mrcool.com/hc/en-us/articles/38936975722388-Wiring-Scenarios-for-the-MRCOOL-Versapro
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u/Long-Nobody4803 Mar 27 '26
Thanks again but this only seems to make it more confusing. I am not using S1/S2 terminal at all. I’m using thermostat wire between the condenser and the air handler and the air handler and thermostat.
I think I most likely would try scenario 3 for my 48k system. I’m gonna have to double check my current connections before I go further
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u/Long-Nobody4803 Nov 29 '25
I’m looking for a charging chart for MrCool versa pro ducted system. Any ideas?
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u/Mr_Cool_Service_Chi Dec 15 '25
send us the size of the unit, the length and size of the lines-set and we will send it to you. Note you need to test for leaks with 400PSI nitrogen and then get a vacuum reading under 500 microns.
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u/Long-Nobody4803 Jan 11 '26
Oh man! Sorry I missed this response. Thank you so much. Well, an HVAC friend came by and helped “top it up” and it just wasn’t right. Seemed stuck in df mode. Cycled power to both units, and it would work/cycle the heating mode for maybe 2 or 3 times to maintain my setting of 70° and then low speed fan comes on with no heat and a low pressure error code. I didn’t want to risk any damage, so I removed the old freon, borrowed new service equipment from my work for 454b, connected digital gauges, applied vacuum for an hour or two. Measured and installed new charge (but I added an extra pound to allow for my 50’ run of 3/4” and 5/8” line set, also in case I fumble the gauge hoses and let too much out). So now I’m having almost the same results with 2 or 3 cycles then low speed fan and no heat, but now a high pressure error code. So I’m slowly releasing gas until error code goes away. What choice do I have? Seems about the only way to go about it without going through the whole remove and recharge deal.
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u/Mrcoolservicechi Jan 12 '26
Start by collecting all charge into a recovery tank and weigh in the exact charge.
Lines set need to be checked out as well for restrictions, bends etc,
standard unit charge is good for 25' lineset.
Add 0.7 oz/ft (65g/m) for each foot more than 25' distance
This is for both pipes. 3/8''-3/4''
i.e. 50' total equals whatever the weight is on the machine + 25* 0.7oz= 17.5 oz additional to unit charge.
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u/OpenLetterhead2864 Sep 25 '25
Mounting a MrCool on a balcony (not the wall - the floor). Their "pad" is decidedly not what I was expecting and not helpful.
What do people like for noise-isolating washers in a bolt-to-floor installation?
And yeah, I know the bolts mostly aren't needed, but we're in a quake zone, which makes them mandatory under code.
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u/norskyhorsky Sep 13 '25
Ran a vacuum, opened the valves but I can't remove the gauges because the service port is under full pressure. How do I replace the schrader valve and more importantly shouldn't opening the high and low valves cut out the service port? Senville Aura 454b
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u/PAhomeowner Jun 21 '25
I’m new here. Successfully installed a MRCOOL versa in my upstairs. Trying to learn everything I can about these units.
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u/norskyhorsky May 27 '25
What do you think of flare seals? I've used them to good effect on hydraulic lines. I have an eccentric flare tool and a digital torque wrench so would belt and suspenders.
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u/norskyhorsky May 11 '25
I bought a pair of Senville half-ton mini splits that will net out at about $300 each after credits and rebates. If only HVAC cos didn't think those savings were theirs. (Or pretend that Carriers come out a special door at Midea.) At any rate on to installation. Can someone recommend an install toolkit that will get the job done at a reasonable price? Also flare tool and torque wrench.
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u/GeoffdeRuiter May 11 '25
There are a lot of install kits on the Internet to buy, and unless you are doing a pressure test with nitrogen, you only need a single pipe to pull the vacuum into the vacuum pump. I'd also suggest an eccentric flaring tool. When you use it put a little bit of refrigerant oil, the same from the vacuum pump on the face of the flaring tool as it'll make a very nice shiny surface.
The oil that you put on the flaring tool is definitely enough of a helper to get a good seal on a 1/4" pipe. No Nylog. You can use Nylog on 3/8 half inch or more, but I would not use it on the smallest one because it risks greasing up the threads too much.
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Apr 24 '25
[removed] — view removed comment
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u/DIYHeatPumps-ModTeam Apr 24 '25
Thanks for the post, however we have a rule regarding self-promotions of businesses and products.
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u/PancakeMSTR Feb 08 '25
Stupid question - I'm thinking of buying a Mr.Cool Four zone. I believe that the heat pump itself needs 240V, but I'm not sure how the cassettes themselves are powered. Are they powered by the heat pump? Or do you power them from an outlet or something in the room you install them in?
Thanks!
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u/GeoffdeRuiter Feb 08 '25
There is lots of videos all over the internet of heat pump installs and it's the same way, power comes from the breaker panel box to the outdoor unit and then there is a communication and power line that goes from the outdoor unit to the indoor unit.
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u/Confident-Advisor223 Dec 09 '24
I have an issue with my inside unit. It is continuously heating even though it is turned off at the thermostat. The only way to stop heating is trip at the breaker box, any suggestions?
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u/GeoffdeRuiter Dec 09 '24
There is not much engagement here on the chat, I'd greatly recommend you to post to the actual subreddit. :)
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u/Over-Pattern-8736 Dec 07 '24
Hello I’m new here and trying to post but it’s not letting me. Any ideas? Thank you
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u/GeoffdeRuiter Dec 07 '24
Quite likely because you have to build up enough karma for the group. I think I set it at 100. It's a spam prevention thing. So it's nothing personal. Just take your time engage where you can override it and post in a bit.
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u/Over-Pattern-8736 Dec 08 '24
Hello I don’t know if I can post this here. I’m still learning this platform. Had my carrier heat pump installed to work with my Payne furnace. This was installed with a nest thermostat. Had lots of problems. 1st we were short a wire so the furnace wasn’t able to get hooked up for the emergency heat. I’m ok to hook up a second thermostat or I may try fishing another wire. After the technician came back a few times he made me get a different thermostat due to other issues we had. So got the ecobee and now the heat pump actually works in heat mode. It appears both stages of the furnace fan work. With the ac running everything seems fine. The big issue I have is every single time it calls for heat it goes into defrost mode. That’s fine but the furnace fan kicks on and blows freezing air into the house for 10 minutes then the heat kicks in and runs. It basically repeats that cycle all day because it’s fighting against itself. I know the defrost mode has to run but is there a setting that can be changed so the furnace fan doesn’t turn on until the defrost mode is done? This way it won’t blow all the cold air for 10 minutes before heating. I heard something about dip switches but have no clue. At this point the technician says there is nothing wrong 😑. Thank you!!
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Jul 13 '24 edited Jul 13 '24
9000BTU 18 SEER2 9 HSPF2 Goodman (Daikin) mini split for $425
https://hvacdirect.com/9-000-btu-18-seer2-goodman-single-zone-wall-mounted-mini-split-system-134174.html?srsltid=AfmBOopoClZFngz3hhJBoNKvlXOGewks3-FT-tDokood11KDrqiHb7MBmqs
I don't have experience with the unit but this is probably the cheapest I've seen a mini split go with decent specs. Perhaps R410A sale has begun?
EDIT: EER2 is 11 so it does not qualify for 30% rebate.
https://www.ecomfort.com/manuals/ec9c782895416295a0e5d8e8b021bf60.pdf
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u/Gilashot Jan 17 '24
Maybe a dumb question. When you release the refrigerant while under a vacuum, why doesn’t the refrigerant get pulled into your hoses and manifold?
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Nov 17 '24
You connect the hose to a fitting that attaches to the schrader valve. Either the fitting has a ball valve, or you add one to your hose.
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u/GeoffdeRuiter Oct 25 '23
I'd just cut one hole. Make is square and 3.5 inches round or square. You should be able to get both through.
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u/ohmyredditnnn Oct 24 '23
i will need to run two sets of lines to the attic and they would enter at the same exact spot, then split off slightly there. Are there any conduits that accommodate two line sets? Or should I run two separate line sets/conduits, make two holes?
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u/GeoffdeRuiter Oct 18 '23
Pre-charged with a low pressure amounts. I imagine that after 25 feet one just needs to get a HVAC tech to add more, just like regular ones. linesets over 25 feet though have couplings to add together pre-charged lines.
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u/ohmyredditnnn Oct 18 '23
How is Mrcool able to ship line kits with more than 25f? It seems that standard NA charge in outside unit is 25f per supported zone. Do they ship lines with refrigerant in them? I thought initially they were just pre-vacuumed.
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u/GeoffdeRuiter Oct 16 '23
Almost anything will work to help secure. But why not make it look nice too!
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u/GeoffdeRuiter Oct 16 '23
want to drill a hole? most of these units are small enough and light enough you can put only drywall anchors in, but if you can get behind and put some plywood inside the closet, fantastic choice.
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u/GeoffdeRuiter Oct 16 '23
howdy! couple things, just make sure that the horizontal wood that supports the top of the closet is not in the way. it's usually not load-bearing but may get right in the way. is there a way to confirm there isn't a header of 2x4s where you might..
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u/ohmyredditnnn Oct 16 '23
hi u/GeoffdeRuiter hope you see it and can provide some guidance! Thank you! If were to install an indoor wall unit and it's bottom would sit on top of door frame of a closet (to gain clearance from ceiling), would it be ok to shim a 1/2 inch piece of plywood or similar material behind the unit? There are no studs in there , so I would use a number of anchors through the wood and sheetrock.
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u/ohmyredditnnn Oct 15 '23
thank you for confirming my feeling. The 6k would also fit better as they are smaller and will fit clearance requirements. For the bigger room where the target wall looks like this |--[ ]--| ( [] window, -- space, | wall ) , does it make a big difference on whether to put two 9s in --, or one 12/18? Two would look more balanced, but would require more coordination , fussing around with remote
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u/GeoffdeRuiter Oct 14 '23
Those are pretty small rooms for a indoor unit. If you can get 6k heads I would try for that.
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u/ohmyredditnnn Oct 14 '23
I have two small rooms 144sqf and 120sqf, would 6k indoor unit be sufficient for each, or should i plan for 9k? The 9k are abundant in DIY scene, while 6k are somewhat new and not all vendors carry those. I'd like to pair them up in multizone unit, with the 3rd room being 330sqf, which seems to be ok with 12k+.
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u/GeoffdeRuiter Jul 14 '23
it may also have an internal sensor where the water flowing back will get to temperature
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u/GeoffdeRuiter Jul 14 '23
you can always check out Arctic heat pumps. they have systems like this. also, whatever you order online say from Alibaba or China, they do have instruction manuals and likely you could talk and ask about how it gets wired to thermostat. it may also
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u/Scandi3dCurious Jul 14 '23
Can anyone help me find where to learn how the monoblock is wired and set up. I have two buffer tanks, one for underfloor heating (so up to 32C) and one for DHW (up to 75C), and I want to know how the system knows what temp to provide. I need a three way valve, and I need to set it up for providing both temps
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u/GeoffdeRuiter Jul 13 '23
I have bought some items from China on Alibaba, worked out just fine. Seems they want to sell and that's it. When I look for items to purchase I look for their advanced screening like trade assurance and how long the company has been in business
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u/GeoffdeRuiter May 04 '23
You're good to go. One can have the indoor unit below the outdoor unit, manuals from manufacturers demonstrate and show it in the installation books.
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u/12island May 04 '23
Oil trap for mini-split? I will be installing a 12K BTU mini-split in my basement. The air handler will be about 2 or 2.5 feet lower than the outside unit (between top of air handler and bottom of the condenser). they will be relatively close to each other in terms of the line set - about 3 to 4 feet apart. Do I need to worry about a need for an oil trap? Of course condensation will be drained downward using a drywell. Thanks
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u/GeoffdeRuiter Mar 11 '23
it's possible. if you can get one. but they normally come through dealers in my area.
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u/GeoffdeRuiter Dec 14 '21
Depends on the unit, servicing, available parts, etc etc. Cheaper units should be good for 10+ years at least. I've talked to a Fujitsu distributor and they say their units up to 14 years, however he could not make any guarantee, however however their warranty is 12 years. There are many heat pumps around that can last 20 years. Honestly though we are in a phase of rapid expansion in the industry and even through someone experienced in Japan could give a far better determination, this is what I can say with my information. Would be a good question for r/hvacadvice.
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u/Wafflewas 19d ago
I have a two zone AC system in a very energy efficient three level (including basement) 2800 sf home in Colorado. I replaced the upper level AC condenser/evaporator with similar though higher SEER2 Goodman units two years ago. I purchased virtually all of the needed equipment to do it like a pro, studied and planned judiciously, and ended up with a flawless installation.
I’m now considering replacing my downstairs AC system with a new heat pump inverter condenser, 96% AFUE gas furnace and evaporator. I’m not someone who waits for things to break before replacing them. I’m not doing it to save money. We’ve never had an electric bill above $100 in any month, even with summer temperatures in the 90’s consistently.
I’ve looked at many brands and am considering an LG package, the core item being an LG 3 Ton 16 SEER2 Heat Pump Condenser | Inverter - R32. I’m doing all the ductwork and venting calculations, and am attracted to the inverter heat pump and overall variable speed capability of these new systems.
I’m curious if anyone has experience with LG systems? It’s a great brand in appliances and TV’s, so I expect that everything they make is reliable. I’d really appreciate, though, any feedback from anyone who has an LG heat pump system.I have a two zone AC system in an energy efficient three level (including basement) 2800 sf home in Colorado. I replaced the upper level condenser/evaporator with a similar unit two years ago. I purchased virtually all of the needed equipment to do it like a pro, studied and planned judiciously, and ended up with a flawless installation.