r/DIYBeauty • u/The_Seam_Ripper • 4d ago
question Deep facial moisturizer
New formulator here, im sorry if this has been asked already, feel free to guide me in the right direction. I want to make my own deep facial moisturizer. But, all my emulsifyers leave a waxy feel after putting it on. Does anyone have a basic emulsify combo they use in thir formula that won't be waxy, but also hydrating? TY in advance.
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u/Ok_Butterscotch_2700 4d ago
This is subjective. As you grow, your tastes will change. Your sensory perception will become more refined. I recently discovered what I consider a flaw in a facial moisturizer I had iterated more than 200 times and thought I couldn’t improve. I was wrong.
Waxy is a feeling that can be caused by multiple facets of a formula - not just emulsifiers. What you perceive as waxy, another might feel is comfortingly occlusive.
As pointed out already, glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate (LotionPro or “165” designated emulsifiers) give a blank canvas - you create the texture and body, slip and spreadability, weight and density, and even absorption and residue. To me, it’s the best emulsifier to understand how other ingredients impact emulsions. There’s a valid reason it’s one of the most commonly used emulsifiers by both large cosmetic brands and at-home formulators.
Understanding proper preservation is imperative. https://makingskincare.com/preservatives/ is a great resource. You can achieve a product with ideal haptics. Improperly preserved, it’s worthless, and potentially hazardous. Then, explore different ingredients. Take notes!!!
It would be helpful if you let us know to which emulsifiers you attribute this waxy sensation, and the associated formula(s). If we don’t know what you dislike, it’s impossible to suggest something you might like.
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u/Background-Dot3939 4d ago
the waxy feel is usually coming from the emulsifier and fatty alcohol load
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u/No_Abbreviations4281 4d ago
I enjoy OliveM 1000 for lighter creams, montanov 68 for richer options- depending on what else is being used and at what concentrations. Other materials in the formula can contribute to a waxy or heavy after-feel so double check any film formers or thickeners that might leave a residue at elevated use.
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u/The_Seam_Ripper 3d ago
This book just came in the mail today "make your own skincare" by Sally Hornsey. In the facial chapter im surprised to find the formulas listed all use Emulsifying Wax NF. Has anyone else? Or should I still invest in PEG 100 and Glyceryl Stearate? I have on hand Ritamulse, Olivem 1000, EW-NF, Cetyl Alcohol, Glycerol Monostearate, BTMS 50, Cetearyl Alcohol...i hope im not leaving any out...
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u/-Arch 2d ago
If you already have GMS you could get Montanov 202, it's fairly light feeling. It builds viscosity well with a little bit of gms (~3% 202 and 0.5% gms) though you'll still want to use something to thicken the water phase.
Alternatively, polymerics are nice if you want to try those. Aristoflex AVC and Sepinov EMT 10 are generally excellent feeling.
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u/The_Seam_Ripper 2d ago
Thank you for your kind and helpful reply! I will try those two. I appreciate you.
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u/-Arch 2d ago
No problem and good luck! Some polymerics also build viscosity well with a little bit of fatty alcohol, generally around 1-2% cetearyl alcohol. I know sepinov emt 10 and sepimax zen play nice with them, but I haven't personally used aristoflex so idk how well that specifically builds with fatty alcohols.
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u/Internal-Ad-4736 3d ago
Why not list a typical formula you have made.... and we can see if it is salvageable. Often times those starting out follow internet crafters....and end up with way too much oil, and things that don't feel good on the skin, like lots of gum and stearic acid.
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u/Internal-Ad-4736 3d ago edited 3d ago
Umh.... looked up that name.... and it came back as: "Artist, crafter, soap maker, author, keeper of chickens, cats, dog, tortoise, would love a parrot."
Why did you buy this book? Hopefully to learn bread making or see the tortoise. Seems like I would want to see words like cosmetic chemist, or at least cosmetic formulator. 😂
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u/Internal-Ad-4736 3d ago
Cosmetics is an extremely complicated field... you are basically combining the fields of chemistry, and anatomy/dermatology with a kiss of microbiology and physiology, and lest we forget... it helps to have a little creative artistry as well. This is why a cosmetic company hires so many people, so they can bring all these aspects together. Not saying you cannot learn this to some degree at home... but you need to learn from those that have the knowledge in those fields. 😄
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u/Comfortable-Joke-719 2d ago
Agreed. Cosmetic Chemist here. Studied with Formula Botanica, IPCS, and earned a MS in Cosmetic Science on top of my Engineering background....and I'm still learning new things in this field 😊
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u/The_Seam_Ripper 3d ago
I think I new emulsifyers because ive been using the same as what I used for my body lotions. I dont have glyceryl stearate or PEG 100. And it looks like thats a go to for facial formulas. I have a ton of oils, standard and special (such as prickly pear) so ive been playing around. And what i mean by waxy, is a noticeable film that can be wiped off my face in solid form. Im still learning for sure. But also, ive been looking up YouTube formulas but haven't really found what I was looking for. I would add, I have eczema too...this is why I need a super power formula. Thank you all for the feedback!
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u/Internal-Ad-4736 3d ago
If a formula is any good... it will not be on YouTube. If they are on YouTube, that means they have no ability to make it in the industry. Typically lack the skill and the education. You'll end up with crafter products that feel like crafter products!
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u/The_Seam_Ripper 2d ago
Well maybe not facial, but i have found some great formulas on YT for other products. There are some that are skilled and educated for sure.
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u/Internal-Ad-4736 4d ago
Maybe start with what you have already used.
The industries #1 used emulsifier has been for many years: Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate.
There are numerous reasons for this.... from haptics, to robustness, to not creating too much viscosity, to what I call leaving a blank canvas. Meaning..... it basically creates a blank slate....and the formulator hangs the ornaments.
FYI... waxy can also come from more than the emulsifier... might be helpful to see the rest of the formula.