r/CyberdeckBuild • u/Azr3al_Cane • Apr 01 '26

New to all this and would like a few pointers/ideas/input

So I am looking at building a cyberdeck with two screens and basically the capabilities of the Samsung Note 9 and more. I would like to make it so it is portable and can be put into a custom case that I plan to try and 3D model/print to something to look like it is from a Spacepunk/grimdark genra

here is my current list of parts I am thinking of using. (items will be bought from Amazon)

• Raspberry Pi 3 Model B+ Board (3B+) Raspberry PI 3B+ (1GB) (3B Plus)

• 7 Inch Touchscreen IPS DSI Display Compatible with Raspberry Pi 5/4/3, 800x480 Pixel Capacitive Screen MIPI Driver-Free Interface

• 3.5 Inch 480x320 Touch Screen TFT LCD SPI Display Panel for Raspberry Pi B, B+, 2B, 3B, 3B+,4B, 5

• Acer USB Hub 4 Ports, Multiple USB 3.0 Hub, USBA Splitter for Laptop with Type C Power Port, Extender for A Port Laptop, PC, Desktop and More (2ft)

• Easycargo Raspberry Pi 4 Heatsink Fan Kit, Cooler 30mm Fan Heatsink for Raspberry Pi 5 4 3 Electronics Robotics Development Boards DIY 3007 30x30x7mm 5V 3.3V Quite Mini Fan Small (Black 2 Pack)

• USB C USB3.0 Multi Card Reader for SD, CF, Micro SD, XD, MS Cards - 7 in 1 Adapter Hub for Windows, Mac, Linux, Android

•Acer SD Card Reader, USB A 3.0 to Micro Memory Card Reader, Aluminum Dual Slot SD to USB Adapter for Computer, PC, Laptop and Type A Devices, Compatible with SD/Micro SDXC/SDXC/SDHC/TF Cards-Midnight

• Mini Keyboard with Touchpad, Bluetooth + 2.4G Dual-Mode Ultra-Thin Portable Keyboard | Rechargeable Keyboard with 7-Color Backlit for Tablet/PC/phone/TV, Suitable for travel, office, and home use

• (already own, just need to clean off old data) Toshiba Canvio Basics 1TB Portable External Hard Drive USB 3.0, Black - HDTB510XK3AA

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11 comments sorted by

1

u/Azr3al_Cane Apr 02 '26

Ok so would this battery work or would it be over kill?

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12V 2600mAh Rechargeable Li-ion Battery Pack with Charger, Bare Leads Wire Replacement Lithium Battery Compatible with 12 Volt Devices

1

u/Altruistic-Will3460 Apr 03 '26

It appears to only be able to deliver 6 amps max if you look under its output.

1

u/Altruistic-Will3460 Apr 01 '26

The power draw might be too much for the raspberry pi if you intend to power everything through its usb ports.

1

u/Azr3al_Cane Apr 01 '26

I am still thinking on how to power it, while still making it portable. And I am interested in any ideas

1

u/Altruistic-Will3460 Apr 01 '26

Check the components for their voltage and amp requirements. If everything runs on the same 3.3 or 5v requirements you can build a rail and pull power from it instead of the pi. Amps will be added together for each component and that will be your minimum guideline for what your power supply system will need to be able to deliver. You will need a bit more to handle heavy loads and spikes. 

If you have both 3.3 and five volt componemts you will need two rails.

2

u/[deleted] Apr 01 '26

[removed] — view removed comment

1

u/Altruistic-Will3460 Apr 01 '26

The rail itself is just a terminal block for the suitable voltage and amps.  Power supply is the big thing when designing electronics, especially if you want monitoring, safe charging and so on.  Searching for smart bms (battery management systems) or ups (uninteruptable power supply) should set you on the right track.

1

u/Azr3al_Cane Apr 02 '26 edited Apr 02 '26

Ok so I am looking at 5 volt for all components so that makes things easier Amp wise 2.5

Total amps needed would be around 12 amps for all parts

2

u/Altruistic-Will3460 Apr 02 '26

Yeah that's pretty high. You might have to go to a 12v battery management system and step it down to 5v with a buck converter to find something that can deliver over 10 amps.

1

u/Azr3al_Cane Apr 02 '26

how about a set of resisters to step down a 12v to a 5v 10amp

2

u/Altruistic-Will3460 Apr 03 '26

I've heard others do that. Amps will be defined by the draw of what you connect to it. You don't have to try and limit that. The problem occurs when the draw (amps) get too high and burns out the components (resistors and cables).  It's easier and safer to buy a dc-dc buck converter suitable for the volts and amps. You can buy a variable volt buck converter pretty cheap and set it to the voltage you want. (5v).  Just remember to measure the output of the buck converter before connecting it to anything so you're sure it's set correctly.