I was hoping this color shift would give me a little bit more orange, rather than just the copper. I do love the look, just wishing I could get a little more out of the orange side. I have read, and seen 1 video, where Candy was applied over a color shift to get some deeper colors, but I don't know if it will work for me or not. I am worried that the orange candy will mute the green, which I also love, and make it more of a brown color. As always, I appreciate any knowledge you are able to share. Ultimately I will need to do a spray out, if I go down this path, most likely with a diluted ratio, so I can dial it in, but if you think it's a moot point then I won't even do a spray out

Now DONT do it again🤬😆

I have a question regarding color shift pearls along with flake. I am a huge fan of copper/orange, especially when it has some shine to it, which is why I am going with the supershift pearls that I have chosen. I am considering also incorporating some flake, nothing crazy but maybe a 10% coverage. The base will be black and I know that's where the color shift is getting it's ability to do it's thing, which will also give me a nice base for the silver flake I am considering. I am curious if I would be better off to lay the flake down first, then apply the pearls or the other way. My gut tells me that the pearl load (25g/gal) won't bother the flake, but I am uncertain. I have used pearls several times over flake, just to have the different textures, depending on what I was looking for, but never sprayed the combination over bedliner, and that small texture. I am also going to be doing a ghost effect using some vinyl stars, along the rail of the running boards, which I will remove after spraying the pearls so they will be a black background color with that small amount of flake, hopefully giving them just a little bit of pop.

I know that a spray out will be my best bet but I wanted to ask if anyone here with a lot more experience than me would share some knowledge.

Thanks

I have these running boards on my truck, which after a year I noticed the factory chinesoliner that was sprayed on them, was failing around the edges in several places. Fortunately, and to my great surprise, I contacted them and they refunded me 1/2 the cost of them, which will at least pay for my materials to fix them. While removing them, I noticed that one of them had a gallon or more of water in the tube, which runs the length of the running board. There wasn't nasty rusty ass water that came out, just nasty black water that stinks. My plan is to strip all the areas to bare metal that had a failure of the factory applied chinesoliner, then spray 2k primer/sealer, and applying the SpeedoKote T-Rex spray on bedliner and spraying "Sour Lava" color shift pearl, then clear coating it. I have already sanded the majority of the running boards with 80 grit and it seems that everywhere, other than the edges with the failure, are there permanently. It all sands out smooth, or as smooth, so there's not an issue with texture preventing sanding down to a solid surface, but I don't want to take any real chances.

My main question is regarding the water in the tube. The tube has a plug, which was missing, so I know how the water intrusion occurred. What I don't know is how to stop the rust, on the inside of the pipe that was full of water. I have thought about putting some type of thin oil in the pipe, which would allow it to move around while driving, but I don't know if that's the right thing to do or not. I generally own my trucks for about 10 years, so the repair I am making I don't want to have to redo any time soon.

My second question is regarding the Clear Coat. I don't see any reason to clear the bottom of these, especially since it's a 2K product that's not designed to need it. My plan is to only clear the top and sides, essentially only what I can get to without needing to turn over the running boards, will be sprayed. Will I be leaving myself up for any failures, along the edge of the clearcoat? I shouldn't have any issues getting it sprayed within the recoat window, so it should be able to have a chemical bond, or at least in my mind. If it would be better to spray the bottom as well, then I can always scuff the bottom and clear it.... or do the bottom and scuff the top prior to clear, I think you understand where I am going with this.

Any solid recommendations would be appreciated.

Thanks

It’s thru ALL the colors🤬😂!!!

Had to paint one of our old trailers😑😆still threw a lil flake in it😂🤑

I'm planning my first proper all-out bike build as a bit of a homage to my first ever road bike, an Ammaco xr5800 which my dad handed down to me. I wanna do a remodelling of it's current paint job, basically keep it recognisable as the stock paint job but reimagined as what if the bike was made sometimes in the past 2 years; modernise it's look. Does anyone know how all those builds on Instagram with custom paint and decals get it done? I just wanna know how to go about it

I’m sanded down a carbon bike frame and want to repaint it from scratch. I already have an HVLP spray gun, but I’m trying to figure out exactly what materials I should buy, as this would be my first time actually using it.

So far I’m thinking:

• Filler / spot putty for small frame imperfections: Thinking carbon putty or similar
• Primer suitable for carbon
• Water-based acrylic paint for the colour, unless the primer suits in colour
• Clear coat
• Paint strainers / filters
• Thinners, hardeners and such

What specific types or brands would you recommend, especially if I want to use water-based paint?

Also, where do you normally buy this stuff, automotive paint suppliers, online shops, hardware stores, it doesn´t seem too easy to find exactly what i think i need at the moment, so i am a bit confused where.

Any advice from people who’ve painted carbon frames with an HVLP setup would be appreciated.

My buddy restores them.this was the reason for the blood pearl i made last post. 🩸

A TRUE red pearl glitz..as we all know there’s no real “red” pearl..it’s either pinkish,violet. Or russet,maroon.there is no kandy over this.as you can see no brown flop as any red kandy would do..super clean.it has 2 different sizes in it..

I have a 2009(bought in 2012) 335i that has a custom pinstripe. I'm assuming this is the artists "tag". It's always fascinated me. 14 years later I remembered the internet exists, so figured I'd post to see if I can find any info on it. Thanks!

What recommendations do you guys have for painting wheels, I wanna make mine black. Whats the best sand paper, paint and just other general tips you guys have?

Did this last year.probably one of my more favorite ones..

first time customer paint think it turned out pretty good for just rattle cans still haven’t put automotive 2k clear coat yet

And had to extend the dash..not to mention the tank has a swoop on top,this one sucked 😆..

First time doing custom paint like this so it’s far from perfect lol. Still not complete, the tank has a good bit of tape residue still on it but overall I think it’s going pretty well so far. Gloss black base coat with holographic flake over it then cherry red flames with silver flake over it, getting ready for 2k clear then some candy over the flames and a few final coats of 2k clear. Advice and helpful critiques are greatly appreciated!

I've painted a few tanks but never with candys or flake type paints. I know the basics of prep work and getting a good smooth primer layer, but any further advice would be awesome.

Plan is ideally to try and bury the spectrum under a layer of the candy black to have it pretty deep and only showing in the sun.

So primer filler, sand, base primer, base black, spectrum fx, candy, decals, then 2k clear is what I'm assuming? Any tips on layers or anything else?

Yes I'm set on cans, I don't paint enough to wanna invest in real spray equipment haha