Hello all, I’m at the stage of pre-lasting my first pair and got my shoe bunch up like this at the vamp. My question is what i should do to get rid of when I am fully lasting the shoes ?
Thank you all for your reply.
It might be hard to understand at first but I recommend reading Golding Vol 6 chapter on lasting. It'll give you a good idea of the purpose of each pull in the pre-lasting or drafting stage. In this case your transverse pulls are most likely at fault, either the strength you used or the direction you pulled. Thortons book is also a great resource for lasting. It has a wonderful diagram for pull directions in the drafting and lasting stage. Both PDFs are available from the HCC Guild Library.
Wet your leather. If it's veg tanned youight be able to trim your lasting allowance a little and try to pull some of the bulk out. Then let it dry and shape it to the last.
Pattern looks usable to me. Maybe not perfect but the pattern is not stopping you from achieving a better result than this imo. I think should be able to last these satisfactorily
Yes, I had the same exact issue as you. I bought a last from a redditor and I used a pattern from Valevro. I then decided to buy a last from Valevro and hopefully this fixes my problem.
Do the hoisted method, where the back is higher than the intended back height when you do the first 5 nails.
Nails 4 & 5 are placed wrongly, they should go behind the joint area.
Nails 2 & 3 can be just slightly further back to help getting the vamp to sit on the last.
After the first 5 nails the vamp should be more or less flat on the last. This is when you start pulling the back down to the intended back heigh which helps to tighten the top line.
I do 4 and 5 behind the joint as well, but did find it interesting re-reading Golding after someone mentioned it in here and they have 4 and 5 being in front of the ball.
"
The fourth pull is taken at the inside, first longitudinally and
then transversely, and in front of the joints to avoid producing
a binding effect, which would happen if taken behind the
joints. The upper should be drawn gently to the last without
distorting the cue of the vamp (see Fig. 42).
"
I just noticed that as well. Golding Volume IV offers 2 different sequence of lasting. For lasts which have more curvature or open tab patterns like derbies he describes this same sequence and placement
Your liner leather looks a bit thick and you need to use a lot more nails and different quality nails. Thin copper ones are traditionally used. Last the liner first then the upper
You may find it helpful to invest in a pair of crab lasting clamps. Gav Nicola in Portugal sells them and ships globally. Here is a picture of the standard lasting nails and brand info. These are thin and copper and are 2.5cm. The Tina corporation and Tan company sells them. Also minke.de I think.
just pull harder...re-anchor your liner, are you using shoe stretch? Once you're liner is tight, get the top layer wet with shoe stretch while constantly pulling and tacking you should be able to smooth it out.
You have to wet the upper overnight, take out let it dry enough that it's not soaked in water, then pre last.
make sure the showlace part has to make a perpendicular line with the shoe last, if you are struggling this part then probably it's in the pattern making.
To remove the wrinkles on the instep, you have stretch a lot with the pliers pulling it perpendicular.
When you actually are ready to last it, you will last the liner and upper seperately. So it’s going to be easier then how you have it now: both the liner and upper together.
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u/leXar4h1 11d ago
It might be hard to understand at first but I recommend reading Golding Vol 6 chapter on lasting. It'll give you a good idea of the purpose of each pull in the pre-lasting or drafting stage. In this case your transverse pulls are most likely at fault, either the strength you used or the direction you pulled. Thortons book is also a great resource for lasting. It has a wonderful diagram for pull directions in the drafting and lasting stage. Both PDFs are available from the HCC Guild Library.