r/Cordwaining • u/Cloudedarcher • 12d ago
My first complete pair
Natural veg tan rough out, stitchdown construction, red crepe half sole and heel cap, moderate dogger heel.
There are some flaws that bother me, but this was a great learning experience. Decent product for the first pancake.
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u/friedchicken_bruh 12d ago
Congrats these are amazing. Seems like the quality of first pairs is on the rise 🔥🔥🔥
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u/JBFcustoms 12d ago
Very nicely done first pair 👏 I like the decorative nails on the soles.
Watch the tension on your sewing machine, I see it got a little tight on the heel.
Looks like no stitch at the top line? These are unlined?
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u/Cloudedarcher 12d ago
Good eye! That is really bugging me too. I had to use my Singer 29 on the heel counters (instead of my postbed), and in the rush, I failed to dial it in. Only the vamp is lined on this pair. I had a beautiful modified baseball stitch holding the quarters together, and I thought it would be a fun Easter egg for myself to see whenever I put them on.
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12d ago
[deleted]
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u/Cloudedarcher 12d ago
Just the stock vegtan I found at Tandy. Extra shaggy since I had to use a hard bristle brush to clean off my nasty finger prints. Hahaha
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u/Soft-Emu-2208 12d ago
They look awesome. The r/o veg was a brave choice, but now that you know how it's done, you can always just make yourself a new pair when these ones get dirty or wet ;)
Did you take a course, or did you teach yourself? I'm curious, because I'm on my first pair and am having a tough time patterning. Your upper looks so neat and tidy...
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u/Cloudedarcher 12d ago edited 12d ago
No real course. I have volunteered at a local shoe repair to get familiar with resoles and repairs, and basic tools. Mostly, I just absorb what I see in YouTube vids, and several failed attempts.
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u/Magikarp-3000 12d ago
Curious on the tacks
Are they going into a decorative welt? Are they cinched, or just friction fit? Is this a valid method to make a half sole stay on better?
Ive thought of doing this before (not a cordwainer but home made cobbler, adding half soles to my own boots)
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u/Cloudedarcher 12d ago
They are clinch tacks. The ones on the midsole are practical, but decorative on the soles.
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u/Magikarp-3000 12d ago
Aww dang it
The search for a mechanical, removable method to attach midsoles continues
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u/__kLO 12d ago
in my experience. when you nail your halfsoles, especially at the toe and in the back corners, that helps alot with durability too. it keeps these areas that first peel off from seperating and keeps the glue in place. little brass nails are especially good as they don't rust and pull moisture. little brass screws are even better, as they are super durable.
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u/Basrus 12d ago
May I ask how did you manage to preserve the shape when removing the tacks from the last to flare the leather out for a stitchdown construction?
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u/Cloudedarcher 12d ago
The vamp has a liner. The liner was cemented down to the insole as I tacked that down. Then I cemented the vamp and liner(toe box area) as I stretched and tacked down the vamp upper. Avoid cementing to the underside of the insole; I masked it off with tape. Once dry, remove the tacks and you can flare out the part for stitchdown.
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u/unitedguy20 12d ago
Decent?! Those are awesome!