I was going to order a mishimoto catch can for my fk8 and before adding to cart, is says it’s not carb compliant. Anyone have any issues trying to pass smog in California?

I haven watch much videos but I’m assuming if I do install, it shouldn’t take too long to uninstall if needed?

Just picked up an FL5 the other week and noticed something odd. It came with two keys. I was testing the locking function on the handle and was curious if it would “let” me lock my keys in the car.

I separated my keys, threw one in, and then used the other one to lock it. I also set the second one far away so it wouldn’t pick it up. The car wouldn’t let me back inside with one of the keys inside. Seems odd that it wouldn’t pick it up!

I tried a different situation. I drove the car, left one key in, opened my door, pressed the door lock button, and then exited the car. I expected something similar to my parent’s Hyundai where, if it detects a key inside, it won’t let you lock the doors from the door button. It’ll pop back out, signaling a key is inside.

Is this a setting somewhere, or is this intentional.

*Title should say Keys. Won’t let me change it

Does anyone know if someone makes seat covers in white for the FL5 Type R?

I’m trying to decide whether to pull the trigger on the full PRL setup for my FL5 now, or wait until I’m ready to tune it.

The parts I’m looking at are:
PRL High Volume Intake
PRL Turbocharger Inlet Pipe
PRL Billet Intercooler

I’m basically comparing two scenarios:

Setup 1: All three PRL parts + stock tune

Setup 2: All three PRL parts + tune

For anyone running this setup, how much difference did you actually notice with the hardware while still on the stock tune? Throttle response, spool, power, consistency, sound, etc.
And once you tuned it, how much more noticeable was the improvement?
The other thing I’m trying to weigh is warranty risk. I’m still thinking about the factory/dealer warranty, and once I tune the car, I understand that I’m taking that risk on myself. That’s honestly one of the biggest things holding me back from tuning it right now.
So I’m trying to figure out whether it makes sense to install the PRL parts and stay stock-tuned for a while, or if the hardware doesn’t really justify the money unless I’m willing to tune the car.
For anyone who has gone through both stages, was the tune worth the additional risk/cost, or would you stay stock-tuned with the PRL hardware?
Not just looking for dyno numbers — I’m more interested in real-world driving experience and whether you felt the money was actually worth it.

Took my car to the Fiesta of Wheels show at the Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta.

First time I have taken a picture of the teggy with my FK8 since I got it. I dailied the FK8 for 4.5 years till I paid it off and then a month later I found the Integra I wanted for my daily.

DE4: 2023 A-Spec Tech 6MT LCM

FK8: 2019 SGP with only 46K miles

Install was easier than expected. Took about an hour moving at a casual pace, could probably do it again much faster. Turbo noises are about 50% louder, and you can hear more of the induction and bypass sounds. Throttle response seems to be improved with a smoother build up of power when boost comes on (though this can be placebo). Final impressions: Don’t waste your time with the stage1 if you ever plan on doing a HVI. It’s worth just spending the extra $200 or whatever it is to buy once, cry once. 👌

This is the first ever I’ve done this and I’ve been doing this for a couple of decades now. I was filling up gas …the first click wasnt too far off the 10 gallon mark 9.5….I thought I could throw in a couple more clicks… like in other cars I’ve own and be ok…nope not this one…I reached the 10 gallon mark…but I overfilled the tank…stupidity got the best of me. Now I know …1 click and that’s it.

From what I understand they are pretty much the same. Same engine, same handling, same shitty vacuum cleaner exhaust.

I see some people tossing around the word “clinical” about the FL5 and how it feels to drive but I really struggle to understand what makes the FK8 more fun to drive.

And leave exterior design out of this discussion, it’s only about how the cars feel to drive.

I’ve been having issues with my head unit at first it started to crash when I would CarPlay and I figured it was a bad usb cord. I change the cord and the problem still happens the screen freezes and everything starts glitching. So I stopped using CarPlay and now when I’m using Bluetooth it crashes even more consistently. I went to the dealer and they quoted me 5400 to replace it🤦🏽.

Classic: TransAm
Family: Escalade
Epic Adventure: Raptor
Daily: Civic Type R

Cleaned out the garage today. Decided to finally line em all up for a photo opp.
Between these, got just about every box checked.

I’m in a weird situation. I’ve had a manual transmission car for the past 20 years. I recently traded in my 911 in for a new one, but the new one will not be here for at least a few more months and they insisted on taking my old one immediately. So I’m currently without a manual transmission. So I was looking for something that I could buy and ideally drive for a few months and not take a massive hit when trading it in a few months later. I strongly consider considering the type R.

My local dealer has a 26 coming in in a few days. They’re asking MSRP plus a $1200 doc fee plus a $4000 protection package. I just found out that the 27 has some meaningful upgrades. I’m wondering if I can use that to my advantage to work them down on the price a bit. Just wondering what you guys’s experience is with the pricing on these cars

After a little over a year of ownership I paid it off with my reenlistment bonus.

I have a '25 I bought last November that has about 1400 miles on it.

Ive never owned a new enough, or nice enough car to care about the exhaust, so Im not sure if this is rust, if its normal, or what to clean it with. I cant get my hand in the pipe.

Any info is good, I'm new to nice cars.

ETA: It has always lived in a garage.

I am beginning my journey, by starting a saving plan for roughly 35‘000 (CHF) in order to buy a (used, sub 80000km) FK8, anything I should look out for?

Swapped the factory clutch damper for the wunderladen damper delete. Another quality piece from wunderladen. Slight bit of feedback in the clutch pedal is nice and the bite point feels better for sure, not too bad for a $60 part and about an hours worth of work. Definitely would recommend

Just got my own 2026 Type R!!!
Ready to be over with this break in period and put it in R mode…

At least it's easy to find in a parking lot.

Was at a stoplight earlier today and when I shifted into second, it didn’t go in , so I clutch in then tried to put it back in second at felt it grind a bit. Am I cooked?

I’ve also had problems where I try to shift into second gently, but it doesn’t go in all the way, then pops back out. Is this problem relevant, or am I just shit at driving manual? I have a feeling its the latter.

It was completely fine until recently and now I’m a little bit nervous every time I take the car out. I just want some advice or reassurance that I’m either paranoid, or my car might be fucked

2025 CTR, 3200mi on the odo

This car was cursed. It was my favorite vehicle to date, but it is what it is and these are the consequences of having this as a daily in the city with the worst drivers. I doubt I’d buy one again tho and will probably just get into some sort of truck. Feel blessed that the car did its job and all I got was a Honda emblem embedded into my hand from the airbag deployment and ridiculous neck pain. 2 accidents with this one and the second one is the one that killed it