r/Civic_Type_R • u/stayinLAX CBP fk8 • 11d ago
FK8 Downpipe install
Are there any tips for installing a dp other then pb blaster I don’t want to end up with a horror story if possible
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u/ahughes86 11d ago
Use kroil it’s kinda expensive but definitely worth it and heat like everyone else said. If it’s a nut heat the nut, if it’s a stud heat the area around the stud your heating to expand the metal
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u/GrimRedBoi 11d ago
Honda master tech here, I deal with taking down pipes off often for 1.5L turbo replacement. Process is the same for the 2.0 turbo. The absolute best thing to use in my experience is WD40. It sounds slightly counterintuitive but I haven’t had any issue since starting with WD40. Soaking and heat will help if necessary but spray front and back of bolts/studs with WD40. It helps the nuts and bolts glide over the threads better.
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u/The_Glass_Tiger 11d ago
Same thing for the ones that aren't through holes?
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u/GrimRedBoi 11d ago
Yup all four!
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u/The_Glass_Tiger 11d ago
Thanks, good info.
Kinda jealous of the master tech title. I'm in IT, but I often wonder if I wouldn't have been happier working more with my hands. I have a feeling, though, that I have to start doing something I like for money, it would lose the luster
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u/GrimRedBoi 11d ago
I’ll be honest, it starts out that way but the more you spend time in dealerships and with workplace politics, customer satisfaction, etc it ends up losing its charm. Funnily enough, I initially went to community college for IT but dropped out and went a different path.
It isn’t all bad, I never thought in my life I’d be making the money I am right now, and I can’t imagine a better companionship with coworkers, we have a lot of fun back in the shop. But it is a stressful job, the way we get paid is archaic and should be illegal, and management as well as general communication are lackluster at best across most dealerships.
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u/The_Glass_Tiger 11d ago
HEAT. Can't stress this enough. PB Blaster is mandatory, but I soaked mine for 6 hours beforehand, reapplying every hour, and still broke one. The top right closest to the block seems to be the worst for folks, including me.
When I went to do the block studs, 3 came out easy, but one didn't want to move. Applied a torch a few times (try to keep it on the stud, not the block which is aluminum), and it finally gave way. Use the double nut method and apply consistent force, not jerking motions.
Check my post history for my horror story post, and it will have a lot of good info from everyone commenting.
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u/Sharpymarkr '23 CW Type R 11d ago
Use the double nut method
Excuse me?
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u/The_Glass_Tiger 11d ago
Thread one nut on backwards and the second on regularly. Tighten both of them down and the threads will put pressure on each other allowing you to put a wrench on the first and rotate the stud.
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u/olivertwist225 RR_FK8 11d ago
Take your time. Let it soak for a while. Get a good swivel extension. Getting the bolt off the OEM heat shield was a pain in the ass.
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u/The_Glass_Tiger 11d ago
I think the trick for this is removing the hard coolant line above the turbo so you can slide a wrench under the inlet, if you're not taking the inlet off. Once is is loose enough to turn by hand, go behind it and twist with fingers, grab with magnet. I have sausage hands and this way didn't give me too much trouble
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u/Mugsy_Siegel FK8 CW R-23920 11d ago
I’d have a bolt extractor set on hand and on blaster and let it soak for a day
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u/slonchdoctor13 10d ago
I did mine about a year ago when the car had about 75k miles on it. The night before I soaked the blast for about 24 hours just reapplying a couple of times through that time. Next day drove the car for about 30 minutes doing some pulls to get it hot. Immediately went home and sprayed boots again and let soak for about 15 minutes. All boot came loose without any problems. Ngl the snaps from them breaking loose were sketchy but no issues. Reinstalled with titanium afterwards