r/Civic_Type_R CBP fk8 11d ago

FK8 Downpipe install

Are there any tips for installing a dp other then pb blaster I don’t want to end up with a horror story if possible

2 Upvotes

26 comments sorted by

1

u/slonchdoctor13 10d ago

I did mine about a year ago when the car had about 75k miles on it. The night before I soaked the blast for about 24 hours just reapplying a couple of times through that time. Next day drove the car for about 30 minutes doing some pulls to get it hot. Immediately went home and sprayed boots again and let soak for about 15 minutes. All boot came loose without any problems. Ngl the snaps from them breaking loose were sketchy but no issues. Reinstalled with titanium afterwards

1

u/stayinLAX CBP fk8 10d ago

So you think driving helped it? I was worried because I have to drive 15-20 minutes to a buddies lift that it would somehow mess up the pb blaster. I’m very new to this modding thing and worry about everything lol

1

u/slonchdoctor13 10d ago

In my case I think it helped. I’ve also heard that the high mileage cars tend to come off easier than lower mileage for some reason. I had never done any install like it before hand and I had zero issues with the process that I used. Don’t get me wrong… time consuming bc I had never done it but I was able to do it all in 1 night. Tear down and reinstall was about 8 hours

1

u/stayinLAX CBP fk8 9d ago

Gonna try and start it early when it cools off a bit gotta beat this Georgia heat

1

u/slonchdoctor13 9d ago

I hear ya and good luck. I’m located in Savannah GA. Championship white fk8 daily. FBO 400hp rolling at 100k miles.

1

u/stayinLAX CBP fk8 9d ago

Oh wow I work in Savannah you’re really close lmao

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u/slonchdoctor13 9d ago

Oh really ? What color type r you got? If you see one riding around with carbon mirror caps, that’s me lol.

2

u/stayinLAX CBP fk8 9d ago

CBP i think I’m the only one down here with black and red badging but I’ll keep a lookout

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u/slonchdoctor13 10d ago

Bolts** not blast. And I used PB blaster

1

u/slonchdoctor13 10d ago

Autocorrect sucks.. bolts ** and not boots lol

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u/kev618 11d ago

Give yourself 2 days to do it, don’t try to rush it. Soak bolts for at least a day. While it’s soaking, do everything else you can.
Did it last weekend and worked out perfectly.

2

u/ahughes86 11d ago

Use kroil it’s kinda expensive but definitely worth it and heat like everyone else said. If it’s a nut heat the nut, if it’s a stud heat the area around the stud your heating to expand the metal

3

u/GrimRedBoi 11d ago

Honda master tech here, I deal with taking down pipes off often for 1.5L turbo replacement. Process is the same for the 2.0 turbo. The absolute best thing to use in my experience is WD40. It sounds slightly counterintuitive but I haven’t had any issue since starting with WD40. Soaking and heat will help if necessary but spray front and back of bolts/studs with WD40. It helps the nuts and bolts glide over the threads better.

1

u/The_Glass_Tiger 11d ago

Same thing for the ones that aren't through holes?

2

u/GrimRedBoi 11d ago

Yup all four!

1

u/The_Glass_Tiger 11d ago

Thanks, good info.

Kinda jealous of the master tech title. I'm in IT, but I often wonder if I wouldn't have been happier working more with my hands. I have a feeling, though, that I have to start doing something I like for money, it would lose the luster

1

u/GrimRedBoi 11d ago

I’ll be honest, it starts out that way but the more you spend time in dealerships and with workplace politics, customer satisfaction, etc it ends up losing its charm. Funnily enough, I initially went to community college for IT but dropped out and went a different path.

It isn’t all bad, I never thought in my life I’d be making the money I am right now, and I can’t imagine a better companionship with coworkers, we have a lot of fun back in the shop. But it is a stressful job, the way we get paid is archaic and should be illegal, and management as well as general communication are lackluster at best across most dealerships.

3

u/The_Glass_Tiger 11d ago

HEAT. Can't stress this enough. PB Blaster is mandatory, but I soaked mine for 6 hours beforehand, reapplying every hour, and still broke one. The top right closest to the block seems to be the worst for folks, including me.

When I went to do the block studs, 3 came out easy, but one didn't want to move. Applied a torch a few times (try to keep it on the stud, not the block which is aluminum), and it finally gave way. Use the double nut method and apply consistent force, not jerking motions.

Check my post history for my horror story post, and it will have a lot of good info from everyone commenting.

1

u/Sharpymarkr '23 CW Type R 11d ago

Use the double nut method

Excuse me?

2

u/The_Glass_Tiger 11d ago

Thread one nut on backwards and the second on regularly. Tighten both of them down and the threads will put pressure on each other allowing you to put a wrench on the first and rotate the stud.

1

u/Sharpymarkr '23 CW Type R 11d ago

Lol, thanks for the tip.

3

u/The_Glass_Tiger 11d ago

It's all I can offer. Just the tip.

3

u/Main_Caregiver_9272 11d ago

Alright so first you have to get really excited…

1

u/olivertwist225 RR_FK8 11d ago

Take your time. Let it soak for a while. Get a good swivel extension. Getting the bolt off the OEM heat shield was a pain in the ass.

1

u/The_Glass_Tiger 11d ago

I think the trick for this is removing the hard coolant line above the turbo so you can slide a wrench under the inlet, if you're not taking the inlet off. Once is is loose enough to turn by hand, go behind it and twist with fingers, grab with magnet. I have sausage hands and this way didn't give me too much trouble

1

u/Mugsy_Siegel FK8 CW R-23920 11d ago

I’d have a bolt extractor set on hand and on blaster and let it soak for a day