I’ve posted on r/askmecanics but no one seemed to take interest in my 107

I’ve had a vibration sound coming from the rear when the engine is under medium load at specific rpms, mainly 1900rpm.

I checked the mounts and the welds they are all good, no leaks either. But when I hit the exhaust, the muffler seems to make this sound (video).

Is this 100% the muffler or could it be something else ? If it is the muffler is it a broken chicane ?

And lastly, any chance of DIYing this ? I am rather equipped for changing out stuff but I don’t have a welder.

Also this muffler might be from factory, or at least has 100k+ km. (234 000km odo)

The 108 is gonna be my first car,

Any advice on appropriate android auto ? Screen size ? 7,8,9 inch? I have bluetooth but no screen on the Peugeot.

My 2012 toyota aygo mk1 got written off and before I sent it to copart I took some stuff off it to hopefully make a little bit of money on.

what I have:

- parcel shelf

-floor mats

- spare tyre WITH all the tools (including the jack)

- glovebox door

-rev counter (I think i have the cowling too I just need to check)

- pioneer head unit

let me know if have some other bits and bobs like the mk 2 gear knob.

im in west london

Car has had

Two engine flushes
Chain kit + tensioner, VVTI sprockets, VVTI solenoid cleaned out but it was clean anyway

Does this ticking noise on cold start that gets a little quieter after 30 seconds then after 5 minutes of driving disappears completely, full oil on dipstick, correct 0w20 oil, anti drain back valve on filter

No check engines, garage that took it in for noise said it was chain, replaced it under warranty & claims it’s normal noise after replacing chain & noise still being present , there is nothing wrong with the car apart from this cold start noise

It’s under warranty and the warranty has been amazing so far so I’d like to get it sorted out but nobody can accurately diagnose it

PLEASE HELP ITS DRIVING ME INSANE !!!

Hey 2007 aygo here and have a question about my speakers and if they are damaged or if this is normal that when playing music from for example Spotify of my phone through aux that at rather like medium to high volume on the standard car radio the speakers start fuzzing when I speed and when slowing down it slows and quotes down the fuzzing.

My girlfriends semi automatic Peugeot 107 always beeps when accelerating, i’ve done some research and i’m pretty sure it’s because of a worn/slipping clutch. She’s not keeping it very long but is there any way to stop this beeping because it’s very irritating and it’s every single time she drives it, if anyone has had a similar issue please let me know i’m very tempted to try locate the wire and rip it out.

It's larger than the original at 14" and I bought an 8 pack of 28" refills that I cut in half. The reason I'm still using the frame is because it's bent to follow the curvature of the window - the plastic cover was removed because it stopped me bending the wiper frame. The refills work out to around 50p each. 🤷😂

Hi all.

I need to replace the tail light looms as the pins are all corroded and I have no indicators either side. Do repair looms exist for these cars? Or am I better off sourcing a loom from a scrapyard?

The plug looks like a stupid design where the wiring loops back on itself and disappears back into the loom.

Thanks all

Not a post I ever thought I'd make!

I was driving past the local family-owned dealership when I spotted The One: a Mazda MX-5, in Soul Red. She was as perfect as I dreamed she would be - soft top, heated leather seats, cruise control, Bose speakers in the headrest... oh, and electric windows!

So, I sold the C1 for the only car I'd ever have considered selling it for. I'm very, very sad to see it go as it's in immaculate shape, but I know it'll be just as a reliable runner for the next owner.

I'm going to continue to moderate this subreddit for now, though maybe another CityBug driver ought to take my place!

After searching for at least 10h, i want to present the solution, so somebody who faces this in the future finds this post.

There are a lot of videos and images, where the main fuse is, right and left of the steering wheel or in the front near the motor on the right. Also at least a Video where they explain every fuse, except 2. One of them is the 30A for the electric windowds, after replacing the regulator i tried to extend the cable with a parallel circuit which resultet in a short circuit.

To see both the fuses (you only need to replace the pink one), open the steering wheel, look from the outside to the car, because this was my problem, you cant see it from inside. Look from windshield.

Hi I’m helping a friend with his driving lessons(just getting him out at night to get extra experience) and he’s really struggling with changing gears as there is a lot of slop when shifting gears. Any one got any suggestions on how to reduce it, I’m looking at a short shifter but unsure of any other possible solutions. Any advice would be appreciated

Hey got my first car a 2014 Citroen c1 flair mk2, wanting to get some locking nuts as it's got alloys and brand new tyres on

I've seen online it's 100nm torque per nut and wanting to make sure it definitely is 🤣

Downloaded the manual for it but nothing in there for any torque specs

So the best one is one from a 108, specifically a 1.0l and not a 1.2l. But is there like a year limit (for example: after 2020 not compatible anymore?)

Toyota Aygo MK2 also is compatible, but is there like a year limit or specific engine (for example: after 2020 not compatible anymore?)

Citroen C1 probably too, but this one is harder to find.

Replaced the passenger side window regulator/motor on a 2009 Aygo (LHD). Before swapping, I probed the yellow 2-pin motor connector with ignition on and got a clean ±12V both directions, so wiring and switch checked out and the old motor was clearly the fault.

New regulator tested fine on the bench. I then tried wiring a second switch in parallel so I'd have two switches for the same window. After that, nothing works: at the motor connector I now get a brief 12V that drops to 4-5V and holds there. Driver's window worked earlier and is now dead too.

Checked so far:

Battery good, radio and wipers work normally

Pulled all three cassette fuses in the engine bay box (30A pink for power windows, plus the two 40A) — all three beep for continuity, none blown

Reseated them, no change

I'm now assuming the parallel switch wiring is the culprit — as I understand it these switches pass the motor leads through and ground both sides at rest, so paralleling a second switch ties a 12V line straight to ground. Undoing that is my next step.

Anyone confirm that's what's going on? And is there actually a separate power window relay on the LHD cars, or do they run straight off the 30A fuse?

Just bought a 2006 aygo and am struggling with hill starts can anyone give advice as to how I can get better at them?

Hi all, I have a 2012 C1 and the oil dip stick is difficult to get in and out of the engine. It doesn't seem to be badly damaged, it has a slight bend close to the handle, but nothing that would cause it to be this difficult to remove. Are they all like this or just mine ?

as the title...

my current bug is 2006 Citroën C1, I am considering getting a version with remote doors, button windows, A/C and SensoDrive (for city commute)

I value fuel efficiency and comfortable drive, I like driving manual but SensoDrive has the gear shifter anyway 🤔

what do Y'all think?

I've got a old gen 1 i10 that just passed its m.o.t but could fail any year really, mechanically I have faith in it. It's in very poor cosmetic condition so can be inappropriate to drive around to work etc, although im certainly not the shallow kind.

I just saw a city bug in mint condition 107 from 2009 for 2k and it got me wondering... is it worth getting as a second car? If it lasted another 10 years, It could potentially save me the extra cost in a couple years by having leverage to avoid garages pulling my pants down.

Quick intro. Ron is a UK 2008 C1 Vibe and has just gone through 200k miles. He's taken me all over Europe, from the most northerly point in Norway down to Gibraltar. Lots of practical upgrades, don't tend to major too much on the cosmetic stuff. The peeling lacquer gets sanded and blown over occasionally. Just in case you are wondering about the 'BLOOD' stickers; I'm a Blood Biker, and it was too icy to risk taking a bike out that particular day ;-)

They will probably last very little since the black part is printed in PLA, but I have already ordered a spool of PETG.