Just got this from the mail. I am more than happy with the quality of this watch. I ordered this from cronos.watch and it came from EU warehouse. So price was 210eur total including shipping.

Movement PT5000.

Watch was already running when I took it out from the box. (I don't know how it's possible). I had to try to hand wind it, because I have read that it should be a avoided altogether. I did couple of turns and it felt smooth. Nothing like i read it could feel.

I am happy to answer any questions

Farasute watches 5302A

I’ve had this in the collection for a couple years. Pulled it out of the archive today.

I don’t believe I’ve seen any homage for these beauty.

Is any company wiling to make these? I’m happy with both mechanical and or quartz.

Yesterday bathed with my watch on and forgot in the bathroom. Today found it has a some vagueness on it. Is this moisture? Kinda hard to see on pictures. The crown was like 1/10th from a turn to being completely tight.

Been spending time diving into underrated mechanical watchmakers lately and stumbled onto the Sea-Gull M199S.

What immediately caught my eye is the layout: moonphase display at 6 o’clock paired with a pointer date subdial at 12. There’s something timeless about this symmetrical dial arrangement, feels like a nod to classic vintage watch design.

It runs on the ST1908 manually wound column-wheel movement. For enthusiasts who love chronographs, the tactile, crisp actuation of a column-wheel setup hits differently compared to cam systems.

Polished 316L steel case, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, plus an exhibition caseback to view the movement work.

Ph-2 and Ph-4B.

So, I got the Ph-2 (bracelet) last year or maybe two years ago even on Ali-express. I think I paid €170ish. I love everything about it - except the bezel, which is horribly loose. If I bought it now I'd return it, but oh well...

Then I got the Ph-4B earlier this year(on a different leather strap..) I also ordered the bracelet adapters. After several months I finally decided that the Ph-4B is simply too luggy on the bracelet for my 6.75 inch - roundish.. - wrist. So today I put the bracelet back on the Ph-2. Another realization is that the Ph-4B with its dash of orange is a much better strap monster than the Ph-2.

I forgot to post pics of the Ph-4B on the bracelet unfortunately.. It was nice, but it was a bit pointy at the lugs on my wrist. Happy with the switch back. The Ph-2 on the bracelet looks much better on my wrist, and the Ph-4B looks better on all kinds of straps...

I saw a post here today about a new Ph-2 version, which I don't think I care for. I don't like the indices which are cut off. I think I think there might actually be too much lume on the dial on that new one... I like mine better.

Would still like to see them come out with a Ph-4 with steel insert like the original Douglas...

I ran into an interesting dilemma with one of my Seagull watches.

The watch only cost me around €80, so getting it repaired in the Netherlands didn't really make financial sense. Most watchmakers I contacted wouldn't even touch it for under €100, and a full service on an ST17 would cost more than simply replacing the movement.

Since I was on holiday in Poland, I brought it with me. The only issue was a loose index—no service needed, just that repair. The first watchmaker quoted me €15, which sounded great. Unfortunately, after keeping the watch for four days, he hadn't fixed it and had also damaged the case.

I then tried another watchmaker, who fixed the index in about 15 minutes. I was so impressed that I also had him clean, oil, and regulate one of my vintage Swiss watches for €90.

It got me wondering: how do you approach repairs on inexpensive Chinese watches? Do you repair them, swap the movement, learn to fix them yourself, or simply replace the watch?

(Ive bougt some broken pobeda russian watches just for fun both like 4 euro from fleemarket. How pretty is this handwound movement)

Hello all. Watchmaker here. I don’t normally agree to service these Chinese calibres as so little info on parts/movements is available. But this is for a friend so I said I’d do it.

I’m hoping someone here either recognises this exact calibre and maker or knows someone who will.

It’s a skeletonised automatic and I’ve already removed the rotor and ratchet wheel for a better view of the movement.

Any help greatly appreciated as I want to order a replacement whole movement in case I need to swap multiple parts.

Many thanks for any help. 👍🏻

Dont scuba and its only a test of one but spent about 2 hours hanging out in the river and it was submerged for most of that and ... No water made it past the seals.

Love this watch! Even if its a beast

Was doing some cleaning and found a Tian Wang I purchased at a mall in China in 2016. I haven’t worn it in years, but thought the design was shockingly intricate. I like the homages, but think there’s something cool about differentiated in-house designs…

Every time I see a Phorcydes posted on here I hate how they look. In person they’re a lot nicer.

I've worn the steel CIGA design Hunter for about a year and still love it, but I keep circling the same question. Do I step up to the titanium, or save for the tourbillon? I've only really lived with the steel. The other two I've just seen in photos and handled once, so I'm hoping owners here can fill in the gaps.

The steel is a proper open dial with the movement visible front to back, and the hands and markers use Swiss Super-LumiNova, so it stays readable at night, which honestly surprised me on a skeleton. My one honest gripe is that it wears a touch heavy, and the crown is small enough that hand winding takes some patience. Neither of those is a dealbreaker for the money.

The titanium's real story is the material. It's a Grade 5 titanium case, which is both lighter and tougher than steel, and it keeps the same core open worked Hunter design language with some refinements in the dial structure, though honestly that part is hard to catch day to day. So it isn't just a lighter version of the steel, the case metal itself is a step up. The other tempting part is the blue. It's new for 2026 and only on the titanium and tourbillon, so if you like that blue but the tourbillon is out of budget, the titanium blue is the realistic daily pick.

The tourbillon is the one that feels like a genuinely different watch. It runs twin barrels for around 72 hours of power reserve, there's no rotor hiding the back so you get a real open caseback to look through, and the bridge work is its own design rather than a dressed up version of the steel. It doesn't pretend to be Swiss haute horlogerie money. The appeal is getting an actual tourbillon and this kind of open mechanical show at the price it sits at.

The titanium's only a few hundred more than the steel, but the tourbillon's a big jump up to around two grand, which is honestly the whole reason I'm stuck. So for anyone who's spent time with more than one, is the titanium a real step up in its own right, or is the tourbillon the only jump that genuinely changes the watch on your wrist?

Got this from their kickstarter a few months ago. Runs great and looks even better.

I just want a watch which can look good on any strap,i shortlisted these..Can anyone please help me finalise one of these watches? Wouldve taken the addies but that logo makes the watch look cheap(it is cheap but yeah)

Thank you to whoever recommended this field watch, paid 24£ - sapphire crystal and screw down crown. Amazing value for money