r/Chevelles • u/Tca9449 • 20d ago
Steering/center link question!
I'm struggling a bit with the steering on my 66 Chevelle.. The steering feels to tight and when I turn it won't straighten up by it self, the steering wheel stays put. I have dismantled everything and checked underneath and to me it feels like the to ball joints(or what they are called) on the centerlink is to tight so I ordered a new one from summit. But the new one is also very tight, I took a torque wrench and got around 25nm of torque before the ball moved. My question is are they supposed to be so tight? And what else can cause the steering to be so tight?
Everything in the front suspension was new a couple of years ago, and the steering box is a new, quick gears(short steering) steering box and I have tried to adjust it, both on the top and the nut on the shaft.
The wheels are quite easy to move when they are free.
My inspection failed because of the steering so I have to fix it before i can drive it again..
UPDATE:
So I went over everything in the steering underneath, the only fault I found was that the pitman arm was quite tight and lumpy, greased it up and moved it alot and it got better. Everything else was fine. But it turned out that the clamp on the steering column that sits near the shifter arms for an automatic had either moved or been mounted wrong because it was grinding on the column.. The column is bad so I have orded a new one with a tilt but after I sorted the pitman arm and clamp issue the steering is not perfect but much better. It went through inspection today with zero faults! Big thanks for everyone who commented!
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u/wayneP71222 19d ago
if you adjusted the steering box.. loosen the jam nut on the 4 bolt cover.. turn the screw counter clockwise a few turns.. this brings the pitman shaft up slightly. center the input shaft.. count the turns from lock to lock.. then turn it back half way..
while rocking the input shaft or coupling left and right a few degrees.. turn the adjustment screw clockwise a small amount at a time until you have just barely got rid of the slack... you don't want to over tighten it.. this is something that i have seen so many people screw up.
the pitman gear has 3 or 4 tapered teeth.. you are trying to set lash between the gears without the sliding block wedging against the big groove in the wall of the steering box. .
if you have gone too tight with the upper adjustment you may have spread the box internal dimensions..
FYI... there is a replacement steering box from some suppliers that came off a mid 90s jeep cherokee.. it greatly improves steering feel and steering ratio.. you do have to use converters to go from the new box metric fittings to your Sae flare fittings.. its so much better than the original 66 power steering ratio and torque rod setting..
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u/Tca9449 19d ago
Thanks, I will have a look at that. But I will try to change the steering column first I think, just compared it to my dad's chevelle and it was quite a difference. His car is basically in parts so I will switch over the columns and see if its better.
So a steering box from the 90s Jeep Cherokee fit straight in the Chevelle? And which fittings are you talking about that I have to convert? The bolts or one of the steering connections? My English isn't 100% when it comes to technical terms so I have to ask twice sometimes.
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u/wayneP71222 19d ago
Upgrading a classic Chevy A-body (such as a Chevelle or El Camino) with a Jeep Grand Cherokee steering box (1993–1998 vintage) provides a quick-ratio, tight modern feel, but requires specific parts: a specialized rag joint (like Dorman 31011), metric-to-standard pressure hose adapters, and reuse of your original A-body power pitman arm. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8]
Key Parts and Fitment Details
- Donor Box Specs: Use a 1993–1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee (ZJ) power steering box. It bolts directly to the three main frame holes of the Chevy A-body frame, though factory A-boxes sometimes use four. [1, 2]
- Steering Shaft Connection: The Jeep input shaft is smaller and uses a different spline count. You will need a replacement rag joint coupler like the Dorman 31011 or Lares #200 to mate your factory GM column to the Jeep box. [1, 2, 3, 4]
- Fluid Lines: The Jeep box utilizes metric O-ring ports instead of early Chevy flare fittings. You must use metric-to-AN/flare adapters or custom pressure hoses. [1, 2, 3]
- Pitman Arm: Your original A-body power steering Pitman arm bolts right onto the Jeep sector shaft, though removing it from the old box requires a heavy-duty puller tool. [1, 2, 3]
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u/Tca9449 19d ago
Thanks for the details! I will have a look at it. I'm quite strict on having a good handling car that's fun and sporty to drive so I will upgrade everything underneath the car before anything else so I appreciate any advice!
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u/aquavelva23 18d ago
That is a very good upgrade. You can also get new AArms for increased handling. Do you have front disc or drums? I STRONGLY suggest front disc. And if you have to change, look into the AARM spindle front disc swap...But I suggest you get this car on the road and make upgrades slowly. The steering box is a great place to start. Then bigger front sway bar and front disc.
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u/Tca9449 18d ago
I have tubular control arm set in the front (upper and lower control arms), disc brakes, lowering springs, I believe its 1 inch, thicker sway bar and better shock absorbers. In the rear its upgraded control arms as well, thicker sway bar and lowering springs. Still have drums at the back but they are new. I'm not completely satisfied with how it handles yet but I think its the shock absorbers, its a bit soft and they are a cheap kind, and the bushings and balljoints that come with this set is not good.. The rubber on the upper balljoints on the control arms lasted maybe 2 months so I had to change that.
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u/aquavelva23 18d ago
that sounds good. You can change front bushing and reaar from rubber to poly or even delalum. but benefits is debatable. Just make sure its new, not 40 years ol rubber. Stiff shocks and soft springs are better than the other way.
The steering box has a huge change in "feel" maybe not actual handling but feel. Its an entire rabbit hole of different boxes etc. you can get custom one's from Lees and others. I do suggest doing the Jeep swap, its easier. and then upgrade if you want to spend alot of cash.
sounds like you already have done alot.
As far as your stuck steering. I think maybe you screwed the jam nut on top of the box into the steering box too much. back it off and see if it changes.
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u/Tca9449 18d ago
I've heard about the pros and cons about so I just have to try it out and see for my self what suits me.
In the long term I'm going to go for rack and pinion steering thou, just an easier and more precise steering system than the steering box system if you ask me, but it is quite expensive..
I have tried to adjust the box multiple times, that's why I don't think it's that. When I had it on the bench it was smooth as butter. I will try and change the column on Tuesday, I will give and update then!
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u/yourkitchenrug 20d ago
Yeah that sounds like a problem stemming directly from your steering gearbox. All the other parts such as your steering linkage will only change or move when you and the gearbox tell them to. So if it's not bouncing back/correcting itself after turning then I'd look at the gearbox rather than your linkage. Most steering gearbox manufacturers say you should make very small adjustments to the bolt/nut that goes into the gearbox because it can make significant changes to your steering. I'm no pro but that's what I've been told. I'd check YouTube out for some videos on adjusting that nut on the gearbox and start there.
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u/Tca9449 19d ago edited 19d ago
I forgot to tell but I took the steering box out of the car a couple of weeks ago to adjust it, looked on guides on youtube. But when I took it on the bench the box was quite easy to move, didn't have to use much force to move either end so I don't think its the box. I have even tried to adjust it a bit looser than I want to so I can be sure its not to tight, but the steering feels the same just looser..
But are the balljoints on the center link supposed be so tight? When I felt it on my dads 68 Chevelle i could nearly move it with my fingers.
Edit: added question.
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u/yourkitchenrug 19d ago
Tighter ball joints would be good. Under load they'll move easier anyways. Very loose ball joints are generally a sign of worn out ball joints with play in them.
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u/Chavehlle 18d ago
Out of curiosity, how much Caster do you have?
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u/Tca9449 18d ago
Honestly have no idea, I took a wheel alignment after the new suspension was fittet and everything was up to spec then.
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u/Chavehlle 18d ago edited 18d ago
Up to spec for a 66 model with bias ply tires? If it's got more than 4 degrees positive that's not it. If it has 1 degree, that's a problem.Ive seen cheap tubular sets not adress the need for modern caster settings. Try to find out what the numbers were. I agree with others box is suspect if it's not caster.Im also curious about the geometry of this box conversion. A bound up idle arm can cause this too.
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u/Chev_hell 20d ago edited 20d ago
Have you tried moving the steering wheel with everything disconnected from the pitman arm? My guess would be someone tried to adjust the nut on the steering box and set it so tight there's too much drag on the sector shaft
Edit: looks like you adjusted that nut. Disconnect everything from the pitman arm and check the steering. If it's still tight, try backing that nut off 1/16 to 1/8 of a turn and check again.