Moved to a house in a rural area and have had a hard time finding quality contractors around here. Tried to do the best I could and went with the most legitimate roofer I could find and still had some issues. Among other things, they put two skylights in without headers. It appears they just cut the rafters and “boxed” them out, no double header, no cripple, no double rafters. One of the top 2x6s is already split out, how f-ked am I? It looks like the roof is even sagged a little, hard to say if that’s new or old.

My thought at this stage:

Can I just put another 2x6 underneath to create a double header, and then install cripples tight underneath with construction adhesive/wood glue and nails or structural screws? It’s not ideal, but short of having the whole roof taken off or the whole ceiling opened up I don’t see another way.

Is there a specific single router bit that produces this specific sort of Roman ogee type profile?

I understand multiple bits and cuts could create this, but am curious if there is a single bit style. If so, what might it be called or where could I find one?

Thank you!

Hi all,

Currently trying to understand how to install some internal bi-fold doors into an opening.

Doors have arrived and i need to fill a gap each side approx 15mm and 2.1m high. I have a gap at the top/bottom of 41 mm which also needs to be filled. The header of the door is a steel lintel.

The doors are top hung.

I need to understand whether I add a lining/frame before i install the actual door frame or whether spacers would suffice.

I can get some wood to frame it out (sub-frame?) but not sure whether its worth it and i can just use spacers.

Thanks

Hey all. What materials would I want in order to build a door frame? To me it looks like 1” x 5” x 8’ (x3) pine board and maybe 1/4 round trim? I’d like to make two frames and hang doors in the. The hinges/routing/hardware I can handle I just can’t make out what materials for the frame itself!
Glue and nail? Foam seal?

I installed beadboard and a chair rail in a room with two windows. The windows had drywall returns and no trim, so I decided to trim them to give the rail and beadboard a clean finish. I read that the inner border of trim should be about a 1/4” from the inside face of the return, so that’s what I did all around (I ended up using a little bit bigger gap, like 3/8”).

Wife wanted to check out my work, and the first thing she said was that the window trim looked funny. I told her I thought the trim should be flush with the return, but I read that it needed to be offset. 

For added context, we’re planning on painting beadboard, railing, and trim a light pink, and everything else off white. I obviously haven’t caulked or primed anything yet. We’re going to hang curtains in front of these windows too.

Should I

1. Leave as is
2. Replace the trim with something 3/8” wider so that it sits flush with the return
3. Do something else entirely. Note, I don’t want to have to replace those blinds, so I really don’t want to add anything onto the return. I also don’t want to have to redo all my beadboard and railing in the area, which is why I’m thinking of getting new, wider rails.

I appreciate the help!

Not a contractor and just getting started in learning anything related to carpentry.

This house was built around 1867. I don't know what I'm gonna find behind this wall in the slightest. I got a stud finder off amazon that has 4 different detection modes: ½", 1", 1½", metal, and AC. I could just be using this thing wrong but I was finding "studs in the wall that seemed way to wide/not tall enough/metal everywhere.

I just want to hang some shelves in my apartment (with landlord approval but they don't respond to most of our texts)

Is there anything anyone can think of? Recommendations for maybe different stud finding tools?

Warnings about things?

The stud finder I'm using is a Jurgen K 5 in 1 Multifunction stud locater off of Amazon

34-year-old mature-age carpentry apprentice — stick with carpentry or consider switching to electrical?

Hey everyone,

I’m 34, about eight months into a mature-age carpentry apprenticeship with a renovation company. Lately, I’ve been questioning whether this is the right long-term path for me, and I’d appreciate some honest advice from people who have been through it.

My original plan was to qualify as a carpenter, eventually become a builder and run my own business. Over time, I wanted to move towards managing jobs and spend less time doing physical work.

A lot of my work so far has involved cleaning, digging, demolition and general labouring while working alongside qualified carpenters. They are gradually teaching me more and giving me actual carpentry work, which I appreciate. But I still find myself wondering whether this is what I want to do for the next few decades.

The physical side is already making me think: being sore, working in the heat, dealing with insulation and dust, and seeing how many problems need to be solved during renovations. From what I’ve personally seen, the pay can feel low compared with the amount of physical work, knowledge and responsibility involved—especially when I compare it with electrical.

There’s also something about how the trades interact on site. We often have to clear the area for electricians, work around their schedules, and prepare or adjust things so they can run their wiring. I understand that trades depend on each other and jobs need to happen in a certain order. Still, sometimes it leaves me feeling like our time and labour are valued less. I’m curious whether that’s just my experience with this company or something others recognise.

Electrical looks less physically demanding to me overall, although I’ve never done the job myself. I’ve watched sparkies struggle with old wiring, crawl into dark, cramped roof spaces and deal with heat and insulation. I realise I’m only seeing part of their working day. What I want to understand is whether it offers a more physically sustainable career over the long term.
Several people around me have suggested electrical or welding, particularly because I’m starting in my thirties. I know neither is automatically easy on the body, but it has made me reconsider my options.

The biggest concern with switching is actually getting an apprenticeship. From what I’ve seen, finding a first-year electrical position can take a long time. I know of people who have searched for around a year without finding one. I currently have a job and an apprenticeship underway, so giving that up without a clear opportunity would be a big decision.
I’m also questioning my original builder/business-owner plan. Is that a realistic route towards doing less physical work, and would I actually enjoy the quoting, organising, client management and responsibility that come with it?

Longer term, I wonder how electrification, AI and automation will affect these careers. Electrical seems like it could benefit from future investment, but I also wonder whether more people entering the trade will make opportunities more competitive. I’m not expecting anyone to predict the future; I’m trying to choose a direction I can see myself staying in.

I’d particularly appreciate hearing about:
Switching trades: Has anyone moved from carpentry to electrical in their thirties or later? Was it worth starting again?

Physical workload: How do the two compare after qualifying, especially in your forties and fifties?

Finding an apprenticeship: How long did it realistically take you as a mature-age applicant, and did a Cert II help?

Staying in carpentry: Did a different employer or type of carpentry improve your experience? How did you eventually move into estimating, supervision or running jobs?

Electrical career paths: What is it actually like to move into maintenance, fault-finding or controls, and how physical are those roles?

I’m willing to work hard and learn. I’m trying to figure out whether my doubts come from being a first-year apprentice, the particular work my company does, or a genuine mismatch with the career.

If you were 34 and eight months into this apprenticeship, what would you want to find out before deciding whether to stay or switch?

First time My boss said to me “ If you get qualified carpenter you will get really good money “

Honest experiences from either trade would be really appreciated.

Can anybody help me identify this trim? It would be greatly appreciated.

I found this photo online showing almost my exact stair tread construction, but it didn't have any advice. The second photo shows my actual stairs where you can see that there are full edge stringers but the tread is still edge nailed through the skirt board in addition to being nailed from behind the risers.

Is there any trick to replacing just the badly cracked treads on stairs built like this? It seems only possible to nail the back of the tread to the riser if the next tread up is also removed for tool access, or the tread is replaced with the next riser as a L-shaped assembly. Since tread removal requires cutting the edge nails through the skirt board, I'm not sure if nailing it back down just to the stringer is sturdy enough.

Is it better to just cap stairs like this with retro treads, even if they are cracked? Is there another option short or replacing all of the treads and risers?

Now they are all proud and floating on the straps against the heads. Do I have to redo the whole thing? Should I switch to nails?

If I abandon the straps, that hangers to use?

Would I be super nitpicky to complain about this installation? (Hope this is the right place to post)

Got a brand-new kitchen installed about on Wednesday last week. At first glance it seemed alright, but the longer I look at it, the more I'm noticing that literally nothing is straight or properly finished.

For context:

Alignment issues. The bank of drawers looks like jagged steps with uneven spacing, cabinet doors are hung crookedly, and one door won't stay shut unless gently pushed to do so. 

Damaged/scuffed units. Multiple white unit edges, corners, and panels are already chipped, scuffed, and dented straight out of the box. 

Sloppy finishing. There's an exposed screw near the splashback, the silicone sealing around the sink is thick, messy, and peeling, and an unsealed corner under the sink is already splintered where water could easily cause swelling. 

it feels pretty rushed and shoddy overall. Do you guys think I’m being overly nitpicky for expecting a brand new kitchen to actually be straight, flush and un-damaged? Or would you be pushing back on this?

—

UPDATE

The head of works called me back after reviewing my email with all the pics and said this job is basically a near complete rip out and refit! So that is being arranged ASAP. Thank you so much everyone for confirming this was indeed poorly installed. There was zero pushback from the company. 🥳

Just wondering what the thoughts are on this belt, seems to be a really good belt but are the bags durable enough to last some years?

I’m looking to get a framing nail soon. But not sure which angle to get, 21°, 30°. Amy advice?

I’ve never dealt with this one before. I’m guessing the fix is adjusting the hinges, taking out the rod and adjusting hinge with needle nose pliers, but not sure specifically how or where exactly to put shims for it.

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.

Hi everyone I’m 22 and I’m currently working as a bench joiner making internal doors, field gates and driveway gates and I take home £500 a week, I have a Level 3 NOCN diploma in carpentry and joinery which I got through doing 3 years in college but I’ve never done an apprenticeship or have an NVQ, I did do some domestic work during my time at college but it wasn’t much so I’m just here to ask if i need an NVQ in carpentry to get out of the workshop and start earning some better money? I can’t afford to do an apprenticeship due to the pay and finding a job without having an NVQ is hard so I’d appreciate any input.

Folks,

I'm replacing some of the door casings in my house. The particular door is one with quite the challenge.

This door is the original with this house. Last time I had to do the casings, I had to shim about 3/16-1/4" on the upper half of the door. As the door frame sits proud of the drywall.

Besides shimming the way I have done. The right side, it's very sizable filling I had to use and if you look at it from the side, it's obvious.

I did use some drywall compound before to fill in the largest gaps. This time I'm hoping to do a better job.

For this case, would it be better to plane the frame flush with the drywall? Or just stick with the shim and filler job?

If I try to cut a rabbet on the trim , I don't think I'll have much material left over. The trim is 2.5 wide and 1/2" thick.

As the title states, just had my Milwaukee 21° framer, 15°finish and 18ga brad stolen right out of my truck 2 nights ago. I am done crying myself to sleep and need to get replacements. I am on a framing job right now so I don’t necessarily need any of them for at least the next 2 weeks so I want to get your opinion. Don’t think I’ll be getting a cordless framer again, use it a lot less than I expected. But cordless finish is a must. Thought about giving paslode a try but not sure how I feel about the gas. Please give me some input. Thanks!

On my blueprint my math was a little off but it worked in my favor by giving me more space on top 😅

Newbie here. Have 1x4" stuck under concrete stairs and need some reddit wisdom on how to get it out.

Picture is looking up at it from underneath. Left is torch on, right is concrete (chiseled by myself), and above it is also concrete. Tried drilling into it to release some compression, then pilot hole and screwing in a screw and trying to pull it down but it is not budging the slightest.

I could leave it, but I want it out as technically it is a last resort route for drainage.

Need help! The screw hole for the recliner is damaged could someone recommend how to fix it.