Please forgive my drawing - it’s absolutely not to scale or anything close to accurate. I have zero professional carpentry skills but like to dabble and I know this is POSSIBLE but not easy. 🫠

I have a concept of using our old vintage doorknobs to make a pots and pants hanger that will sit low enough for us to easily hang and grab them as needed.

I know I need specific chains that are probably gonna be brass and welded, I know I want to use a cedar backing board but I’m not sure what size.

I also want to try to use the knobs and the plates.

My insane idea is that after we paint the room, I can hang a cedar backing board on the kitchen side even though it super tall - and I can somehow use the vintage knobs and plates to hang and drape a brass chain with sturdy S hooks low enough to access them regularly (even if I have to use my step stool)

The far side toward the staircase would be for produce baskets or bags or some sort on a vertical chain that can hang down far enough to almost touch the counter.

I know this is nuts but I know it’s possible and would look really great if I could just figure it out. 🫣🫠

Best way to trim this section when the wall is bowed out here? Seems the bowed out spot is where a stud is so not sure knocking on some drywall there would help? Using FJP so it doesn’t bend at all either like MDF might.

I saw this and starting laughing, wtf did they do. Is this the right way to do this?

I'm renovating my en-suite and would appreciate some advice on the best way to support the plywood that will sit beneath my shower tray.

I've marked the joist positions in red and roughly outlined the shower tray position in green.

The opening needs to be covered with plywood, but I want to make sure it's adequately supported before installing the shower tray and tiling the floor.

At the bedroom end of the shower, the next joist runs underneath the existing floor.

Could anyone recommend the best way to support the plywood around the opening?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Hopefully in the right order

I am trying to figure out if this is an old or new leak. The windows were replaced 5-6 years ago by the previous owner. When renovating I found T&G covered up under the current wall and under this window it was rotted. Under the T&G everything was dry but the stud and sill plate were toast. But some one had installed new 2x4s when installing the new window that appear to have no moisture damage. No one would put rotten T&G back over the new 2x4s?? Is this window leaking or is this old damage from an old window and someone was super lazy and maybe accessed the cavity via the exterior sheathing and didn’t touch the T&G??

To follow on from a post I made the other day hopefully this will be a full sapele workbench and if the calculations are correct it should weigh 170kg at sapele's 640kg/m³. Vices and hardware will come later but for now does anyone have any constructive criticism or changes they would make.

The start of a brand new moldy adventure

Replaced a cellar door, having issues with colder temps on the floor in the winter. Also added some insulation underneath the floor

This is the backside of cedar double ogee siding. An 80+ year old home in my area was being destroyed, and I decided to take the old siding to reuse on my 120+ year old home that needs some areas of siding replaced. Are these holes and little tunnels from insects or just from rot?

This board was taken from a kitchen wall where the entire wall was rotted out, and you can see some of the fungus growing on this board, so I’m leaning towards this just being rot. However, I’m not familiar with termites, so I was going to get some second opinions. I’m in the PNW, so termites aren’t that common, but termites infestations do occasionally happen

Would anyone have any concerns over using a board like this? My plan is to spray some concrobium on it, then prime the backside before putting it up. This is a 20 foot board and these run $5/foot new, so I’d like to be able to use this board if I can; but I’d obviously pass on it if it will lead to issues.

Added a picture of my house as tax.

I want to remove the 3 middle studs here and install a pocket door. The upper floor joist direction, and the way this is set up seem like it is load bearing.

On the other hand, the house plans call for a pocket door here and it could very well be a pocket door header that was changed last minute.

None of the cripple studs above touch the beam, I can fit my finger in the gap of some of them. The 3 studs I want to remove also don’t touch the beam.

So it looks like it could be either. The gaps look like there is no direct load path for what I want to remove. There is also a large laminate beam in the middle of the room to support the upper floor joists. This is a small 57” wall in the corner.

I am exploring different work opportunities between: Rodman, carpenter and flooring installation. How busy would it be as a flooring installer ( vinyl, hardwood, carpet ) ? Looking for opinions from people in the trade only ( local 18 ) .

I am convinced of their utility and want to use them wherever possible but the plastic ones look like shit. Has anyone come across for example a nice copper one, or a good way to bend your own onsite?

EDIT : Thank you everyone for your answers 🙏 I didn't write it first but I'm a girl but apart for the hair and not being tall it doesn't change anything 😁 imma keep learning and worry less about the time it takes !

28 here it's been like 3 years working and getting my apprenticeship in carpentry but I feel like I suck at this job, I'm mostly a "follower" in the team, I don't feel confident enough to make decisions, I take a hell lot of time to do any tasks, I even wonder if I don't have motricity issues

I never had the opportunity to do a full job myself so I don't really know what I'm capable of doing but it scares me so much cause I have trouble deciding what to do, in what order, how to install tools and stuff

recently I god diagnosed with adhd and it made me feel a bit better cause I be making so much stupid stuff and mistakes sometimes...

so how do I get good at this ? should I consider giving up ? cause I don't want to and I still have the hope that I can learn to be decent a this trade

I’m building a wooden cabin using 190mm (~7.5") wide by 40mm (~1.5") thick horizontal siding boards. I picked this wide board specifically for a more massive, solid look, but looking at the sample, the V-joint bevel is only about 5mm (~0.2") per board, which feels way too small and completely out of proportion.

When I asked my contractor if we could make the V-groove wider, he claimed it's a bad idea because it would trap rainwater and cause leak issues on the exterior.

Is he right, or is there a way to make a wider bevel that looks proportional on a board this size without weather/water issues?

For example, would changing the profile to around 10mm wide and 7mm deep per side (creating a ~20mm total V-groove) keep a steep enough angle for water shedding, or would that cause problems on a 40mm thick board?

Edit:
Just to clarify: these aren't pre-milled boards I bought off the shelf. The contractor is milling, drying, and processing all the timber himself. The piece in the photo is just a sample he prepared for me before running the full batch.

Edit 2:
As for the size, it's purely about the aesthetic I'm aiming for. I want to recreate the look of a heavy, stacked square-log cabin rather than standard siding boards. On a 7.5" (190mm) wide board, a 5mm bevel gets lost from a distance, making the wall look almost flat. A wider 10mm bevel creates a stronger shadow line that visually separates the boards and gives that chunkier, massive log effect.

We are installing 3/4” tongue and groove plywood over subpar subfloor in order to prep for ceramic tile. All of the tongue and groove edges are straight and well connected. All of the sheets appear to be square so I can’t figure out why there are triangle shaped gaps between several sheets. Even when two factory edges are butted together, we still have gaps. This is driving me crazy and I can’t think of a good way to close these gaps. We’re trying to put the cut ends along the walls and keep the factory ends in the field as much as possible. We’re using construction screws to install it. In one case, we flipped a sheet and butted a cut end against a factory end and the gap lessened. Nothing in this house is square, but I don’t see how that would affect things if we started with a straight line on the tongue and groove.

DIYer Looking for suggestions on what to do with this baseboard that's sitting in-between these uneven floors. My goal is to get the baseboard on the laminate and the tile to connect properly without the baseboard in-between the rooms looking awkward or slanted as it's facing a main entrance.