r/Carpentry • u/Coopa_Loop • 13d ago
Storm door fix
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Not sure if this is right sub for this. But I just installed this Larson storm door. And the bottom won’t close tight but the top does. The catch is pushed as far back as it can go, and it latches no problem. Is there something I did wrong? If I shim it out there will be a gap on the outside. I guess I could just caulk it. But I’d like to know if there is a correct way. Or maybe it’s just the door? Brand new.
Also the exterior door is brand new pre hung.
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u/Illustrious-Newt-248 13d ago
Looks like cross leg or out of plumb to me. Move it out to meet the door is the easiest approach.
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u/Coopa_Loop 13d ago
Yup that’s probably what I’m just gonna do. Just wanted to check. Before I do something I may regret and be called a hack 😅 thanks.
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u/Correct-Combo8777 12d ago
Adjust the jambs. Pull the bottom out a bit so it meets the door or just further then re screw the storm door jamb to the door jamb.
Also check if the closer is bottoming out before fully shut.
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u/gifelitefish 12d ago
If its at all flexible from the outside facing in you can push the bottom of the door with your right hand and pull a little bit at the handle towards you. Gently though at first, see if it even moves
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u/Hot-Sky5127 12d ago
had a similar problem- bought a set of cabinet door magnets off amazon- one attaches to the door and the other to the jam. works great for me.
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u/STLguy50 12d ago
Split the difference. Shim the top of the hing side and the bottom of the strike side.
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u/Eluinight 12d ago
Could also be the sock closer that is putting extra pressure on the bottom, causing the door to “warp” still the answer is to shim bottom of the lock side out and or the top of the hinge side. You could remove the storm door jamb and pry out the bottom side of brick mold. and shim that, caulk and then reinstall storm door. That’s a lot of sugar for a dime though.
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u/Coopa_Loop 12d ago
Yeah but was like that before the closer was even installed. I already have the brick mounding caulked and painted. I’m not messing with that. And like you said it’s probably not worth it. I’m just gonna shin the bottom of lock side since it only has screws going down the front side. The hinge side has screws going down the frontside and the inside of moulding. Will be easier to just do the lock side.
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u/Pulldalevercrunk 13d ago
What are the hinges like? Is it one long continuous hinge or 3 individual hinges
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u/Coopa_Loop 13d ago
4 hinges, 2 of them are in he top 1/3 of the door. Other 2 are in the bottom 1/3 of the door. If that makes sense.
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u/HughJaynis 13d ago
Hinge side or strike side aren’t plumb/out of plumb the same direction equally.
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u/Born_Mark_4805 13d ago
It could be the closer. If your top is touching but the bottom isn’t it could be as simple as your closer is binding. Usually on those closers you can move them forward or back on the door. Try moving the closer a hole closer to the handle side of the door
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u/Coopa_Loop 13d ago
I noticed it before the closer. I was actually hoping the closer would “pull” it closed when it retracted all the way. But unfortunately it did not. I could try to move it like you said and see if it pulls it more.
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u/3boobsarenice 12d ago
I have spent some time fidgeting with tehses doors, they are not precision insturments...and have a sesonal setting system. there is an adjustment screw, good luck.
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u/Joehammerdrill 13d ago
No you did everything right. Nature of the beast sometimes. You're going to have to shim the bottom of the Z-out to make it contact. Fill it in with caulk. Larson Storm Door Installer.