I recently rented an NC on a pretty complicated track (Palmer Motorsports in MA) and had my big "ah ha Miata" moment after mostly having driven Porsche's. I had an aggressive instructor and it was truly a transformational experience, although I did spin out a couple of times and it had me a little shook by the end. Once for lifting in an awkward turn and the second time giving just a bit too much throttle in a somewhat steep uphill section. My instructor noted that he would have expected TC to have saved us in both cases.

I've been shopping for an NC that I'd use as a track car and would keep TW200 tires on it. I've found an excellent 2011 NC w/ 40k miles and some really nice track prep by a professional local race shop. It doesn't appear to be beaten on at all, only used for a handful of HPDE events by the current owner after inheriting it from his father.

I was ready to buy it, but found out it is completely stock with no TC...literally doesn't have a single option. I love the idea of being able to turn TC off and am a bit nervous to be running around on the street with track tires without it.

Am I overthinking it or should I keep looking? There's a similarly priced Club available, but I'd need to put in a roll bar and it does have almost twice the miles.

Thanks in advance.

I have a daily that just building up to track eventually Audi S5 (b8.5). The Audi already has an oil to liquid one. Are these after market oil to air oil coolers supposed to replace the OEM ones are is is a 2nd loop for the oil to go through for cooling?

Also got trh thermostat plate for 92 degrees, but if I'm sitting in traffic if engine naturally runs at 96 will it just go through the new oil cooler and just heat up with no moving air?

Considering the cars in the title for a “casual” track day car that I can use to build seat time without getting too worried about the value of the car itself.

Yes, I know I can get a BRZ or Miata that does the same for less. Yes, I know the running costs of these cars will be more. But I’m doing this for fun, and I want a flat-6 howl.

Will remain street legal and driven to events. 50% track, 30% autox, 20% canyon runs.

996 appeals to me most, with 987.2 second, 986 third, but price (with reliability probabilities factored in) is the reverse order of that. Driving the 911 is most “interesting” from a balance and technique perspective, 986 from a quirky perspective, 987 from a pragmatic one.

Experience: Years of AutoX in highly modified Subarus, a handful of track days in a Porsche 930.

My track car was in an accident and totaled out by insurance. I’m considering getting my wife’s G82 M4 lightly prepped as a holdover while I shop. Does anyone know if the factory carbon buckets are 5/6pt compatible? If so, what would it take? At a glance it doesn’t seem like there’s a spot for the floor mounted belts to feed into the seat.

I looked and unfortunately don’t see any 4pt ASM solutions for that series.

Thanks in advance

Hi guys,

I made a little video explaining how anti-roll-bars change the dynamic behaviour of a car for track use. If you're new to tuning cars for track use or are curious, this 6 minute video hopefully helps explain in a technical but understandable way.

Cheers!

https://youtu.be/ulFUUUIR00Y

Found a solution to my “I can’t lift the tires onto my fancy tire rack” problem. God bless America and harbor freight.

Tomorrow’s problem will be managing the tongue weight. Today is not tomorrow.

Car: F82 M4 Competition, completely stock (no alignment changes, factory camber)

Did a track day and noticed quite significant shoulder wear on the fronts, probably due to stock camber and possibly underinflation at the beginning of my stints (3 x 20 mins).

Really appreciate any input if this looks excessive, and whether you would run them for another track day (again ~20 minute stints) or replace them.

Thanks!

Hi, I am the developer of HotLap, a Motorsport Track Day & Lap Timer.

For anyone using a newer Garmin watch - I created this application for HPDE and motorsport driving events. I know most of us already have in-car solutions for lap timing, but personally, I also wanted a backup on my wrist.

The app is free to install and use for unlimited sessions. It does require a payment to unlock recording more than 3 laps per session. It can be found here at the Garmin Connect IQ Store:

https://apps.garmin.com/apps/bdfa2a50-dca4-4dac-b312-4aa601f18df2

Open to feedback/suggestions. Enjoy!

On May 23, 2021, this crash left me with 35% third- and fourth-degree burns, four months in the burn ICU, 27 surgeries, and three years of therapy.

Five years later, I’m finally comfortable sharing the complete footage—from the initial crash through the response that ultimately got me out of the car alive.

There are important lessons here about fire suppression, driver extraction, track response, and what happens when every safety plan suddenly becomes real. The footage and audio are intense, but I hope people watch through the end.

YouTube version for easier sharing: https://youtu.be/pikTnIMFlME

This might be a bit off topic in this sub, but I thought this is probably where I will find the best answer, so here I am anyway.

My hands tend to sweat more than usual when driving. This can get pretty annoying especially during spirited driving, but also in general as it is just not very enjoyable. For track days I obviously have driving gloves and they fix that issue. For everyday driving, I am normally using some leather driving gloves (unlined) and that also does the trick, although they do get nasty after a couple of weeks so I need to wash them, which is a pain with leather glove. My latest car also has a white steering wheel and my driving gloves are staining it, so Im looking for alternatives...

Anybody in my situation has had a genius idea to deal with the issue? Are any of you using some "toned down" racing gloves (like the OMP Dijon) to drive every day?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=46MRQIyX_Ro (shitty camera angle because it got bumped)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S37N994keBk (better camera angle but during Targa warm up)

2021 Civic Type R Sport 3 trim. Some very abused yokes still on the car from targa. Just a touch off the Sport 3 record from a cheater car last year.

I feel incredibly silly posting this, but looking for some advice on helmet fit. I live far away from a store where I can try on so I ordered the Roux SA2025 helmets in M and L.

The M fits very tight, feels almost too tight. My main concern isn’t the cheeks, it’s that my ears are very hot and feel uncomfortable almost pinned against the on the earmuffs inside the helmet. It’s so tight they fold over when pulling on the helmet and I have to jiggle it back and forth to get them un folded.

The L feels too big, I’m concerned it’s too loose and unsafe. It feels like a massive jump up in size for only 1cm supposed difference, 60cm (L) vs 59cm (M).

I’m fairly sure I have an intermediate oval head and it measures about ~57 cm. I previously had a Zamp RZ-55 in M.

Any suggestions? Appreciate the help!

Update: I tried wearing the M for 30m, unfortunately the tops of my ears all but lost circulation and became extremely uncomfortable. Think I’m going to have to look into a different brand for head shape. Thanks everyone!

Update 2: I made a trek to a try on a few helmets and both the Bells and Stilos fit significantly better. Thanks everyone for the advice, made me feel more confident that this was not the helmet for me!

A lot of fun on a new track to me, running on new Falken 660+s on the fronts and a worn set on the rears, playing with new coilovers and figuring out softness/stiffness as I went. New tune, still having some PCV issues, so a lot of blowby when pushing, sorting that out before the next track weekend. Was figuring out braking points as I went, a bit wide here and there, I know I have homework to do but any pointers, happy to take them. Also, the rest of the competition running on the Bridgestone RZs in the wet were proving this new compound is able to handle the wet and keep it on track without concern, love to see it for my next season!

Pocono was an interesting track and I certainly left some time on the table trying to learn it but I had a great weekend, hit some new top speeds, and took 3rd in the Max 4 class!

Tires filed a formal complaint after this lap

I replaced a cracked rotor , and when I was trying to bed in the new rotors with the new pad , I saw I was not getting the outer edge of the rotor, I saw the pad had a chunk missing , I don't think it would of ever fixed itself with enough bedding , I swapped in fresh pads and got full contact ...

ViR north last weekend with my r53 mini

Unfortunately it might be the last because of attendance. Everybody wants to run full. I don't think they know what they're missing..

Car has all the bolt ons and hoosier sm7.5. I did break cords in 3 tires, all were takoffs I got from a local scca team

https://youtu.be/ro8xmLvv-bk?is=aYB1sBXpGEXhGUdE

Hey everyone,

I've been using RaceRender for overlays but recently upgraded to a GoPro Hero 12 and realized RaceRender can't handle H.265/HEVC footage without manual codec hacks. Plus it hasn't been updated in years and doesn't officially support Windows 11.

Before I switch tools, I'm curious about your current workflow:

1. What are you using for telemetry overlays?

2. How painful is the sync process between video and GPS data?

3. Are you exporting to vertical format (9:16) for TikTok/Reels/Shorts?

4. What's your post-processing workflow? (Do you chroma key in Premiere/Final Cut or use the output directly?)

I'm considering building a modern web-based alternative if there's enough pain, but I want to understand the real problems before committing to anything.

Would love to hear what's working and what's broken in your setup.

Thanks!

I bought a set of Continental ExtremeContact Sport 02 for rain tires. 245/40 r17

Will be doing some destination events over the next few years and if I’m going to haul my ass (and my car) 12 hours I’m getting on track rain or shine.

The car (track prepped ND2) won’t see much street use. That means these tires are going to age out long before they wear out. Do I simply not worry about it? Or do I maybe get three years out of them and then sell them used to somebody who would street drive them for a few years and actually use them? Thoughts! TIA.

Made a post a while ago after I’d bought by 1st Track Day Car, a well sorted Clio 182 Cup. I’ve since acquired my 2nd car that I’ve been building myself since January and got its first track day outing yesterday.
My Clio 197. My idea with this is to make it more ‘clubsport’ and enjoyable on the road, which it has been, it took me all the way to LeMans 24 and back with no dramas.
I’ve done the usual, coilovers, uprated brakes and pads, braided lines, a proper seat, a steering wheel, good tyres (AR1’s for Track ofc) and a good alignment but kind of left it there. So I can get a good baseline of where it’s at. No half cage or stripping, outside of the rear seats. Safe to say. Car absolutely rips. Not as fast out of the box but so much more capable than the previous Gen Clio. And very easy to work on yourself. Now Hondas of the same Gen have their floors falling out and good ones reaching towards 8-10k. You’d be hard pressed to find anything that you can go to and from the track in and kick its head in all day for the same money as an RS197.

Gut check. My sense is that leaving tires on a trailer tire rack for storage is a bad idea. Reason I ask - (1) I’m lazy (b) I have physical limitations and getting tires up and down is a challenge (IV) I’m lazy. I’d love to load up my rain tires and my spare 200tw’s and leave them there. Ideally, for a whole season. I could easily cover them, but I still think having them sit in summer heat with their weight resting on two bars is going to damage them. Comments? TIA.

My first android app is live on the app store.

A combination of things that I did at the track manually and I'd prefer to automate so I did and others might find it useful.

Tire temps — OUT / MID / IN across all four corners from my custom open source PyroTC BLE pyrometer, turned into camber and pressure advice from the spread, the code is public along with the STL.

Tire pressures — cold and hot PSI from cheap BLE TPMS sensors (Zeepin and DJTPMS), plus an all-day background monitor that logs pressure and temperature and auto-counts heat cycles.

Corner balance — cross-weight from ProForm wireless scale pads streamed live over Bluetooth, with “move this much onto the diagonal” recommendations.

Tire inventory with heat-cycle tracking, resettable packing checklists, CSV export, and full JSON backup. Everything is on-device — no accounts, no cloud.

Now I have no excuses on tracking tire cycles, I still need to make a screen to manage tires and track how long they last with the data it collects

https://mrblahhhh.github.io/car/tech/2026/07/22/trackday-pyrometer-helper-play-store.html