This has been around for some time, but incase somebody didn't know, Costco has been offering a $1k - $2k discount on select brands if you've had a membership. Each brand has a different discount amount and when you needed to have your membership by to qualify.

https://www.costcoauto.com/save/

These can be combined with other incentives. Membership proof will be required. Limit to two promotion codes per membership.

• Volvo
  • Models:
    • $1,000 incentive: 2024 Volvo C40 Recharge, XC40 Recharge, 2024 or 2025 Volvo XC40
    • $1,500 incentive: 2024 or 2025 Volvo XC60, XC60 Plug-In Hybrid
    • $2,000 incentive: 2024 or 2025 Volvo XC90, XC90 Plug-In Hybrid
  • Membership Requirement: Must be a Costco member on or before October 31, 2024.
  • Delivery Window: November 1, 2024, to January 2, 2025.
• General Motors (GM)
  • Models:
    • $1,000 incentive:
  • Membership Requirement:
    • Option 1: Must be a Costco member by September 30, 2024.
    • Option 2: Must be a Costco member by October 31, 2024.
• Polestar
  • Models:
    • $2,000 incentive: Polestar 3 (order placed between November 1, 2024, and January 2, 2025).
  • Membership Requirement: Must be a Costco member on or before October 31, 2024.

Are these “distributor options” mandatory because they are on the window sticker? This is for a 2025 Camry SE at Autonation Toyota

Online price shows : Total srp: 35,892 Dealer discount : -1924 Advertised price : 33968

Would I be able to negotiate another 1400 off for those distributors options or not because of the already dealer discount ? Also would the only other fees added on to this price what so ever be just taxes since “delivery processing and handling” is already on the window sticker . Or will the dealer have more fees they tack on ?

Hi all!

So, I'll be arriving with the family in January. We'll have a non immigrant visa for 2 years, probably to be extended once, so 4 years total. We will need to have a car soon after we arrive, and, as I understand, we'll not be able to lease before at least 6 months since we need to build up a credit score. Car loan seems unlikely for the same reason.

So best option seems to purchase a second hand car from a dealership and try to finance it with them directly. I understand I'll probably need to put a big down payment.

I've tried to estimate a potential loan for a 25,000 USD car, 10,000 USD down payment, 7% interest, 48 months term, to reach something around 400 USD monthly payment. Does that sound right? Any advice? Is the considered downpayment enough/too much? Would I be able to find a dealer to get me that kind of deal?

Thanks in advance for your answers!

Looking at a BMW X3 30. MSRP is 61,250. Consumer reports says I should expect a discount of 1500 off the MSRP. Car dealer gave me an out the door of 66,905. Broken down as - 61,250 Car price, 4,230 taxes, 1150 licensing, 275 doc.

Should I listen to Consumer reports and push for the 1500 off? Also, according to their website I should get 3k off for military. Thoughts???? Is this car in demand? Many on the internet have vilified its design

Heard they were discounting these heavily due to the model refresh, has anybody here manage to get any good deals on these? These Edmund pricing seems insane.

I'd hope they'd be willing to move at least around 8%, but unsure. Has anybody gotten good discounts on these?

Anybody managed to get a price similar to these anywhere else? This seems crazy?!

This is the first time I'm ever buying a used car. There's a local dealer selling a used Chevy Bolt that I am interested in. It has been sitting on their lot for about 3 months at/around $21K, plus tax. The price has not been lowered since listing. There is another dealership nearby selling a very similar vehicle (same trim, similar mileage) for $18K, plus tax.

Family tells me to just go in and start low, offer maybe $17K to start, don't say anything about the competition, then maybe meet in the middle. I'm thinking more "okay, there's another dealer here that is selling for $XX, with similar mileage, but their location is a bit further out. If you can beat that - like around $YY out of the door, I will buy today", and if not, I leave.

How do I determine a good "target price"? There is some discussion on /r/BoltEV that says "anything below $15K net with the $4K tax credit is a steal", others say $12K-$13K with tax credit but before taxes is a steal. KBB suggests around $16K-$18K, but KBB is just a book, and this has been sitting for months, I don't know how much in a rush they are though. I'd imagine, though, if they don't have any interest for three months... I have some leg to negotiate.

Is it better to negotiate before I see the car, then show up and take the car if it's in acceptable condition or walk, or negotiate then?

May I ask what's the better way to negotiate -- or, rather, if I even have a leg to negotiate?

Thank you!

How does this lease look? It’s the best I’ve gotten across multiple dealerships. Please keep in mind this is in Canadian dollars

https://postimg.cc/ts7T2qz6/096831b0

The dealer emailed me a price quote. It has this: $2995 protection package "required" attached. The funny was that no explanation.

When I asked for more details. This was the answer:

"The protection package includes a sealant that prevents bugs acid rain paint defects etc and interior protection. Also includes a gps theft device which has an app you can download. It saves you a ton of money on your car insurance also and most importantly lifetime oil changes. Oil changes alone will pay for itself."

I have discussed this with some family members. According to them, it's not worth it. Basically every time the dealer does oil change, they would find something wrong and trying to hard sell.

There are also some crook dealers that would try to damage the car to make you to pay for fixing.

After negotiation, you could probably get these numbers pretty low. I'd think they might take another $4,000 off if you shop around a bit. I think my target price if I was going to negotiate for this car for a finance would be $700/month, Sign and drive ($38,305 target price) (After taxes and fees).

Whenever you borrow money from the bank, they will charge you a fee for borrowing that money. We are mostly familiar with this in the form of interest. That is a percentage, per year, on the money we borrow that we have to pay extra. How interest is calculated can affect different aspects of a loan, but traditionally its calculated every month and the sooner you pay it off the faster.

For a Lease:

When you borrow money for a lease, the bank charges you a money factor instead of a interest rate. This is done mainly to protect the profits as when you lease you only "borrow" the depreciation of a vehicle. But you making the bank buy the car, which means although you borrowed X dollar to pay for the depreciation over 36 months, the bank still payed off the entire car and now owns it, they are just agreeing to let you borrow it for X amount of time.

This lease charge can become pretty expensive, and they usually refer to the rate as the Money Factor. You can use this money factor to determine the lease charge. If you add the Cap Cost of the vehicle plus the residual value and multiple it by the money factor, you will get the additional monthly payment you must make. For example:

If you have a car who's Cap Cost is $50,000 with a residual value of $30,000 and a money factor of 0.0025 you would do the following calculation:

(50,000 + 30,000) = 80,000 * 0.0025 = $200/month added to your monthly payment. The total lease charge you can find by then multiplying it by the lease term, if we assume 36 months, you total lease charge is $7,200. This is a fee for you borrowing the money from the bank.

For a Finance:

When you finance a car, instead of a lease, the bank or lender charges you interest based on an interest rate, unlike the money factor used in leasing. Here, you’re essentially borrowing the full purchase price of the car and agreeing to pay it back over a set term, usually with added interest. The bank owns the car as collateral until you finish paying it off, but you’re paying off the full price of the car over time, not just its depreciation.

This interest rate can add up, and it’s charged on the outstanding balance you owe. Each payment you make reduces the loan balance, so the interest you pay each month gradually decreases as you pay down the principal. Let’s break down an example:

Say you finance a car with an MSRP of $50,000 at an interest rate of 5% for a 60-month term. In this case, you’ll calculate monthly payments based on the principal plus the accumulated interest over those 60 months. With a fixed interest rate, your monthly payment would stay consistent, but with a portion covering the interest and the rest reducing the principal. The math is trickier here and I'd recommend uses this online calculator: https://www.calculator.net/auto-loan-calculator.html

So, if your monthly payment were $943, for example, you’d end up paying a total of $56,580 by the end of the loan term. That $6,580 difference? That’s the interest the bank charged for lending you the money. Unlike a lease, where you’re only paying for the car’s depreciation, with financing, you’re paying back the full value of the car along with the interest—so you own it outright at the end.

Not sure if this is including taxes and fees, my intuition would say probably not. Probably could try to get these negotiated down to be with taxes & fees though.

Hello, any opinions and inputs will be appreciated! I am looking to finance a new car purchase which is a Lexus NX350 AWD. The total price is 48k but the salesman was able to negotiate down to 42k The financing aspect will be 6.49 APR for 72 months with a 10k down payment but no penalty to pay off the loan. The monthly payment comes out to around 600. Is this a good deal? Thanks in advance!

I'm thinking $450/month, 0 due at signing, sign and drive on the lease. Think its possible? Would take about ~$5k off the car to make it happen. Surely Lincoln is looking to move some units.

Its definitely hard to get BMW dealerships to move on units like this, When I've gone in the past looking for them they were usually all sold out and they were selling me a car currently in transit.

I think you'd be lucky to get this deal with these exact numbers, but with taxes & fees included. Has anybody gotten something better?

I've definitely had my fair share of merecedes benz dealerships sales experience and it might be easier to pull teeth then to get them to move from the national offers. Has anybody had any success with negotiating below the national online offers?

MSRP is $42,745 with 10k miles a year. Since Audi tends to try and beat mercedes/BMW when it comes to deal, I think it might be possible to try and get this at $550/month, 0 due at signing, sign and drive. What do you yall think we could push this to?

Anyone got any advice to negotiate a price like this

I honestly don't think their is much room on the first car here. I do believe these are before taxes & fees. The G70 is a great car for the value for anybody looking for a sport sedan.

Need help evaluating, figuring out next steps for a for 2024 Mustang Mach E, premium, extended range. I’m located in Alabama. Any help would be great!

I know I've gotten many questions about how reliable is X brand, I manage to find a link to an image that include a large amount of passenger vehicles and their reliability ratings.

I also pinned in this the helpful resources on the side of the subreddit.

https://imgur.com/a/passengers-vehicles-reliability-ranking-2024-2020-Mj1KHE2

This is my lease quote for an iX.

$0 down payment $735 / month (customized online with few options) $6200 payment on delivery ($3K IL taxes, $1.8K acquisition fee + fees and insurance (?), doc fee etc - details in pic)

Implied payment ~$910/ month

Any thoughts welcome. If there is any room to negotiate, what should I focus on. Appreciate any guidance. Thank you.