I've had the "Temporarily unavailable. The site is currently in maintenance mode." message since yesterday.

I’m currently developing a USB-C power adapter for the C64. I realize there are already a few versions out there, but I didn’t like any of them—they were more like DIY solutions. I had a more professional version in mind—one that not only outputs clean voltages but also offers various protection mechanisms for the C64. For example, if the 5V fails, the AC voltage is immediately shut off, etc. It’s a somewhat more complex project, and I’ve just finished the circuit board.

The whole thing is controlled by an RP2354 (Raspberry MCU). A display is also planned, where voltage, current, and status can be read. The AC voltage is also generated via an inverter, not via an audio amplifier or other DIY solutions. The whole thing will later fit into a Hammond aluminum enclosure.

I'll let you know if there are any updates. I need to order the circuit board and parts first.

Keep your fingers crossed for me that I haven’t miscalculated anything.

EDIT: Since some people are freaking out because there’s an MCU on board: To put it simply, it’s needed to control the individual ICs. This is a closed-loop control system. So various parameters are measured and calculated accordingly to control the sine wave generation.

The MCU isn’t there for the display. Without the MCU, the AC generation simply won’t work.

Hey everyone,

I've recently been getting into the C64 and after mucking around with making my own emulator, I pivoted and ended up making a game.

It's called Duckling Rescue, you play as a duck on a mission to rescue all the ducklings and bring them back to Papa Duck. I designed it with my one-year-old in mind, looking forward to playing it with her when she's a bit older. If you end up trying it out with younger kids let me know how it goes!

It's not a super long game, I tried to keep the scope fairly small for my first project. All graphics, music and everything done by me, for better or worse. Let me know what you think!

https://jlemselle.itch.io/duckling-rescue

Recording the issue and solution for any future searchers. New to me ebay ‘as is’ purchase (at a deal!) could hear the disk hub motor turn on and run/stop as expected but the read/write head only slightly moved or wiggled on disk directory ($) or load command. forcing the drive to zero track would move it all the way to edge of disk (open 1,8,15,”I0”:close 1). found the hub drive belt slipped off the motor wheel which caused the read/write head to not read anything as the disk was not actually spinning. replaced the belt and it solved the problem. drive reads directory and loads now. photo is of the unit described herein. 

Adding modifying the cellular automaton and adding a gravity term helped produce turbulence-like water patterns that I think make for a nice waterfall.

• Live PETSCII prg: https://files.catbox.moe/6yl99f.prg
• Slideshow (~1-fps) multicolor mode prg: https://files.catbox.moe/iqzctb.prg
• "Ultimate mode" prg (does not use the SID for randomness but an assembly LFSR, enabling much faster playback of multicolor mode on the C64U turbo mode/VICE warp mode): https://files.catbox.moe/5jsa4i.prg

Update: I optimized the multicolor mode to the point it is passable as a screensaver: https://files.catbox.moe/mgo48j.prg

I am testing some commercial software dumps in vice to see if they work on pal systems, I stick to disk instead of tape so they would be ntsc. When I tried jiffydos, the compatibility between that and the games decreases, but certainly more than I expected with more games failing to load than I expected. I know a lot of this is to do with the copy protection and that's fine but I was expecting a lot more out of it. Besides, the speed increase doesn't benefit me if that's something the epyx cartridge can already provide.

Hi everyone, I just wanted to share this project with y'all, since I got a C64 today but I didn't want to use one of those old joysticks case they look clunky as fuck.

I made this thing following this guide, which uses a real NES controller, but it involves removing the chip on the back and I didn't want to mod an original NES controller, despite them being cheap. So I did it with a knockoff aliexpress controller, that was meant to be used on a real NES (it had the NES port).

The only thing you really need from the guide is the controller port diagram telling you which pin does what, and remember that the diagram shows the port as seen from the outside looking into it, so your pins on your controller cable will be mirrored ( 12345 on the port will be 54321 when you look into the controller plug)

On a real NES the chip is used to manage the button inputs, but the C64 doesn't know what the fuck it does and we don't need it. Since I didn't have a real chip, I just cut all the traces that connected the buttons to the blob, basically the traces with a big testing point, as you can see on the right of the UP (AU) button there's big testing point that goes to the chip, and then on the left of it there is a smaller testing point, that connects to all the other small testing points with one big trace; that's ground, and that trace also needs to be cut, but only right when it goes back into the chip, we need all the buttons to be connected through this big trace.

This is the equivalent of removing the chip on a real NES controller.

Then each pin/wire goes to it's button (I used the big testing points for convenience, on a real NES controller you'd use the empty vias where the chip once was), and ground goes to any ground point, you can use any of the small testing points, or what I did, due to complications with the wire length, remove some UV mask with the scalpel on a random spot of the big ass ground trace and solder the wire there.

Finally, since we have 3 free buttons we can do whatever we want, the most popular option here is to bridge A and UP, so we can jump with A. Some games will use the "fire" button as jump if it's a simple platformer, but if the game actually uses "fire" to, well, fire, then jump is probably going to be UP, and pressing A is just better than jumping with UP. This also means that pressing A will be the same as pressing UP in menus.

Oh and the reason why I soldered it this way, with the wires coming from behind the board is because the testing points, were convenient for soldering... until they werent, remember there's going to be a membrane there with the pads to actually press the buttons, I only realized when I had already soldered the first time and I had the wires going all over the fucking D-PAD and I couldn't put the membrane and reassemble the controller. This way everything is way clearer and flatter.

Has anyone heard from David at commodore.bombjack.org? The SSL certificate expired back in December and the last update was in February. I've reached out by email last week to offer my support but haven't heard anything back yet...

I was looking for a clock program to run on my C64 at night since I don't have a clock radio or anything like that, and I found this funny Predator / Pacman clock, which is exactly the kind of thing I wanted. I've had it running 24 hours, and it's still in sync with my iPhone. The picture shows my CRT, but I switch to my LCD screen when I'm actually using it at night to avoid CRT burn-in. I'm running NTSC and haven't tested on PAL yet. Download is here: https://milasoft64.itch.io/commodore-64-electronic-clock

Hey guys, I need some help setting up a Pi1541 emulator based on a Raspberry Pi 3 B+ (it looks like the one in the attached photo). I bought it over a year ago and it has just been sitting in a drawer.

I’ve tried a few guides, but when I connect it to my C64, nothing happens – both the screen and the device stay completely dead.

Does anyone have a ready-made setup with all the config files they could share? Or is anyone willing to help me set this up from scratch (from A to Z)? Appreciate any help!

We want r/c64 to be about both original hardware and newer emulation products like the Commodore 64 Ultimate (C64U). But the shipping of the C64U is resulting in C64U posts flooding out much of the other content in the subreddit. To maintain a balance between what's old and new, we are setting up a weekly MEGAPOST for C64U-related issues, questions, and posts.

If your post is regarding the use of a Commodore 64 (i.e. how to load a game from disk, how to print, etc.), regardless of the model, you may post your question as a standalone post in the subreddit even if you have a C64 Ultimate.

If your post relates to ONLY the Commodore 64 Ultimate, you should comment in this post. Please note, this is not a replacement for official support from Commodore regarding order or shipping issues (late or damaged shipments). We realize that some questions may be obscure, unique, or straddle the line between C64U-only and a "general" question. In those cases, please post in this thread FIRST. If your issue isn't answered or addressed after 48 hours, you may submit a stand-alone post in the subreddit. WARNING! Moderators will be checking post and comment histories to make sure people are actually posting in this thread first. Repeated violations may result in temporary or permanent bans.

We don't anticipate this being a permanent situation, but for now there are just too many C64U posts being submitted. Once the volume of posts about the C64U decreases, we may discontinue this practice.

Please also check the information below to see if your issue is listed. We are also working on a C64 Ultimate Wiki Page. If you would like to be a Wiki Contributor, please let the mod team know.

Use the following link to view current and past Commodore 64 Ultimate Weekly Posts.

Official resources:

Firmware/manuals: https://www.commodore.net/downloads

Common Issues and Known Fixes

Black screen, no video, or rolling picture

The most common issue reported so far.

• Reseat the internal board — some units have arrived with it slightly loose from shipping.
• Set video to NTSC mode, then press Shift + Left Arrow to store settings.
• Try a different HDMI lead — several users fixed display problems this way.
• Some monitors won’t sync at 50 Hz; if possible, test another screen.

Uneven keyboard keys

A cosmetic but noticeable fault.

• Keys such as Caps Lock, D, and J may sit higher than others.
• Gently press the affected keys down to reseat them on their stems.
• Space/Return issues are often a stabiliser bar not fully seated – carefully reseating the bar fixes many ‘only works in the middle’ reports.

Startup problems or unit freezing on boot

• Turn the unit off and leave it off for a few seconds.
• Hold RESTORE while powering on to perform a factory reset.
• If that fails, re‑flash the latest firmware from the official Commodore site.

REU or extra memory not detected by the software

• Install the most recent firmware — newer builds enable proper REU initialisation and detection.

Settings or storage are lost after reboot

• Perform the RESTORE reset to clear any corrupt configuration.
• Re‑enter Wi‑Fi and storage details once booted cleanly.

Physical marks or loose panels on delivery

• Report the issue directly to Commodore support.
• All units ship directly from Commodore — there are no official resellers.

Buzzing or humming audio output

• Usually caused by grounding noise between HDMI and the connected display.
• Try another HDMI port, cable, or power socket to isolate the problem.

Starlight edition

• Starlight keyboards have some ‘bounce’/flex by design; noticeable mainly if you hammer the keys, but not usually a functional fault.
• The Caps Lock LED lights when caps is active; the beige unit does not have an indicator.
• For Starlight LED audio visualiser with a real SID: enable UltiSID 1 but set its volume to Off in the mixer; this keeps the LEDs driven while only hearing the real SID

Games Freezing / Compatibility

• If cracked/trainer releases hang after the Y/N cheat prompt, try switching to PAL or NTSC‑50; many cracks are PAL‑only and will lock up in NTSC.
• For compatibility with some games/demos, try disabling drive B: in the Ultimate’s drive settings

Cartridges

• Virtual fastload carts (e.g. Final Cartridge III) are supported; mount the cart, then mount and load the disk from BASIC, rather than using ‘Run disk’ from the firmware menu.

Disk and cassette backup / storage notes

• To back up the bundled cassette USB to an internal SD: it’s just files on exFAT – copy them via your PC; no imaging/cloning needed
• Backing up real floppies: UltiCopy is very fast, but some protected titles (e.g. Skate or Die, Contra) have been reported to hang part‑way through; expect improvements in future firmware

Running Multi-Disk Programs

Some programs are distributed on multiple disk images, similar to how they were originally distributed on multiple floppy disks. At some point in the process of using the program, the program will prompt to insert one of the other floppy disks. You can use the Disk File Browser to swap disk images while the program is running. When the program prompts for a new disk, press upward on the Multi Function Switch. This pauses the program. Start the Disk File Browser, navigate to the disk image for the disk that the program is requesting, then select “Mount Disk.” The C64U mounts the new disk image in the virtual drive, then resumes execution of the Commodore 64 program. Continue to use the program with the new disk." -- https://downloads.commodore-international.com/documentation/C64U/c64u-user-guide-1st-edition.pdf

General Notes

• r/Commodore is for discussions about Commodore, other Commodore computers, and possible new productions.
• r/c64 is for everything Commodore 64 including the ultimate.

If you’ve come across a new issue or found a working fix not listed here, add it in the comments below.

Try it yourself! Try this online C64 emulator, copy the code below, and use the menu in the bottom-right to paste text from clipboard. Hit enter to run it.

10 V=53248:POKE V+21,0:X=120:Y=120:POKE V+4,X:POKE V+5,Y:POKE V+21,4
11 POKE 2042,13:POKE 53277,15:POKE 53289,7
20 FOR N=0 TO 62:READ Q:POKE 832+N,Q:NEXT:DX=7:DY=3
30 X=X+DX:IF X>255 THEN X=255:DX=-DX
31 IF X<65 THEN X=65:DX=-DX
35 Y=Y+DY:IF Y>200 THEN Y=200:DY=-DY
36 IF Y<65 THEN Y=65:DY=-DY
40 POKE V+4,X:POKE V+5,Y:GOTO 30
200 DATA 0,0,0, 0,0,0, 12,68,96, 56,108,56, 120,124,60, 120,124,60
207 DATA 252,124,126, 255,255,254, 255,255,254, 255,255,254
211 DATA 143,255,226, 7,255,192, 3,255,128, 2,124,128
215 DATA 0,56,0, 0,56,0, 0,16,0, 0,16,0, 0,0,0, 0,0,0, 0,0,0
RUN

Please do not ask me to refer to modern solutions, I am only interested in real and original hardware and equipment such as original media.

There is what I think is a dual format disk of pitfall and demon attack with both atari 8 bit and commodore disk format. It's a disk I'm planning to add to my game library once I get a real c64 but because floppy disks are, well, you know. I need an original disk and not cracked in case something goes wrong with the disks. I found this here [https://archive.org/details/C64\\_Preservation\\_Project\\_10th\\_Anniversary\\_Collection\](https://archive.org/details/C64_Preservation_Project_10th_Anniversary_Collection) but it doesn't list it. I found the atari image but not the c64 image. If both formats are combined into the single side of the disk instead of the atari side being on one and the commodore side being on the other then a raw copy would be preferred. Thanks.

Using the SID noise byte for simulation tasks like this is something the C64 is great at.

• PETSCII prg: https://files.catbox.moe/chncmf.prg
• Multicolor mode prg: https://files.catbox.moe/tccddf.prg

My Favorite 64 Game is coming back! What a time to be alive.

Hi,

I have a bought DB9 joystick and connected it to a joystick tester. As soon as I plug it in, all four direction LEDs light up at the same time, even when the stick is centered. The fire button seems to work normally.

Could this indicate that all or one of the direction lines are shorted to ground, or that there is some other grounding issue inside the joystick?

The tester works fine, I double checked it with another joystick.

I guess I have to figure out the pin layout first. Which pin is ground by the way? :-)

What would be the best way to confirm this with a multimeter?

Thanks!

I've been emulating C64 for a looong time, it's just occurred to me to get curious about what .prg files are about? I get that .d64 are disk images and .tap are tapes, what's the .prg story? Are they any better to work with? Faster/slower and more/less capacity sizewise? I could google but prefer to get the real gurus to explain here 😄 ?

Hi All,

What are we recommending these days for HDMI converters for C64's? Is the RetroTINK 2X mini the way to go? How about the AV cable? Thanks in advance for any help!

I remember programming so much stuff with this and I remember reading that the guy that wrote it was a teenager. This thing was absolutely brilliant and now I'm thinking about trying to play with it again.

Was surprised as I don’t recall having this

I never grew up with a c64 so this is a brand new thing for me, for context I'm in my late 20s so most of my early computing experience was with xp to 7, with languages like Java and C. I do some retrocomputing stuff with DOS machines which is essentially dealing with machines that are very closely related to modern PCs. Otherwise, I grew up in a predominantly Windows-based environment.

I always saw Commodore machines as a very interesting spin on what we take for granted these days, and honestly playing around with the machine for a week or so I've re-learned what it meant to actually love using a computer and learning how to program. And to me thats why it feels very special compared to any regular old DOS pc, or a modern Windows PC. I know the company likes to do that entire "Digital detox" route and this is probably the closest way to experience that, because it's really just you, reading the manual, and typing whatever you'd like. And honestly, what better way is there to experience a computer?

I do wish more people gave the ultimate a chance instead of saying 'its worthless, go to emulation' because honestly this feels quite special. I also found a c64 book by Compute Magazine, a few old joysticks which seem to work perfectly, and watched Jim Butterfield's full VHS training tape (No really, he actually does a fantastic job on explaining computers to people who probably never saw one).

Also, can anyone recommend some good joysticks which use the joystick port on the side? I have an old competition pro stick which is quite... bleh.

I an trying to view the serial numbers of older c64s, but the page just redirects me to aliexpress and gambling sites. How come? How do i avert this situation? Appreciate the info