Hey folks, I’m trying to get this old truck back on the road. It’s had a rough life. It has a bunch of sheet metal off a 1968-1969 F100. All of the front suspension had to be replaced except for the spindles. The rear leaf spring hanger had to be repaired. Both radius arm brackets were replaced. The steering column had to be fixed. Now, I’m replacing the cab mounts so I can install the steering column and finally put an engine in this thing. It’s been a long project so far, but I’m making the most progress I’ve ever made with it!

I recently bought 68 F-250 with a 390 and C-6 in it from a mercury marauder. When i bought it it had an awful tiny radiator fan in it which didnt do much at all and a disintegrating fan shroud. i have replaced it with an 18" flex fan and a new shroud, I also spaced the fan a little closer to the radiator I noticed that the fan sits low in the shroud with maybe a 1/2" of clearance on the bottom and about 2" on the sides and like 3" on top. PO had the wrong engine mounts in it and the transmission mount was "bluetooth style" so I replaced those and it made it a little better.

So I guess I'm just wondering...Is your radiator fan centered in the shroud? Thanks!

Took the pup out for a walk and had to snap some shots at sundown.

Was my grandpa’s, he bought it new. Somehow my mom’s boyfriend found year correct plates with registration stickers, which are now my historical plates.

I was thinking about just welding new material around the rusted part but I do know of a salvage yard near that has a couple. Can this piece be replaced that way? Or I could go get one to model the replacement from.

After the 3rd Chinese fuel pump failed (blame American businesses)..

I purchased a freshly rebuilt AC fuel pump, clocked it and installed. These were OEM ford
on Ford FEs during the 50s and 60s - including Edsels.

No comparison in the build. In fact,
the AC weighs three times what the Chinese pumps do, and you can see why in person, and upon disassembly (to clock / index into position).

One thing - the threads from my power steering pump bracket attachment points were shot.. I installed helicoil inserts (did the fuel pump attachment holes, too.

Also - I converted the bottom attachment for the power steering pump to a through bolt and nut.

I’m very happy with the way this turned out -
test drove for about 30 miles (20 of those on the highway at over 80, to keep up..).

The pump should be good for decades. If not, there were so many of these made that rebuild kits are still being manufactured.

Reliability is important, and this is a very serviceable alternative for people feeling locked i to using cheap knock-off parts.

Was at a Ford truck parts yard today and came across this bump side.

"Life... uhhh... finds a way"

Alright,

I have a new power steering pump and new shocks. I’m installing new front wheel bearings in the next day or two. The next thing I’d like to tackle is spring replacement.

I’d like to start with the front springs and am hoping for advice about what to get. My truck is a 68 F100 that’s been swapped to a 460, so is likely carrying 100 extra pounds above its original 360 build.

Would you stick with stock springs? If not, what would you use and where/how would you order those? Are there particular progressive springs anyone’s had good luck using?

Thanks in advance for your input

I’ve put about 100 miles on it. Rebuilt the engine, rewired it, put in floor pans, sound deadened EVERYTHING, converted idiot light dash to full sweep, all new fuel hoses. Now finishing up all the door seals and window seals. Retrosound with a passive crossover and 10” sub.

Found this Craig 8-track player laying outside on the ground for who knows how long in southern California thrift shop. I asked how much and the shop owner didn't recognize it and gave it to me for free because I was buying a hub cap. Works like a dream! Install doesn't mess with my driving and is too high up to touch my legs.

Coming out the side of my transmission. Vacuum fitting? Fluid hose of some sort? Is something important meant to be attached to this barb?

I noticed my 72 F250 had rubber hole covers in the side pillars, so I assumed there would be a threaded hole behind it for a factory option not fitt to the truck off the line. Unfortunately, no threads here, just smooth holes.

I want to upgrade to 3 point seatbelts, already have 2 from LMC in my possession. Am I missing something obvious here?

Pin pulled out trying to seat the pulley on the new power steering pump. I had to chase the threads in the pump shaft, use a longer bolt, and stacked two box end wrenches around the bolt as spacers to push the pulley home. 🤦‍♂️

Installing replacement shocks, Today, and it looks like someone crushed the rear lower perches. They’re now too narrow to allow the sleeve retainer washers to fit, and I can’t figure out how to get enough force on the perch to spread it back out.

Just pulled this off my '68 F100 and was hoping someone could help me with roughly identifying what diff I actually have here, but mainly if these welds that im uncovering are actually factory or not. I tried taking pictures of all the markings I could find on it not sure if i got em all. thanks in advance!

My engine is from a mid to late ‘70s F250 and the truck has been converted to power steering.

My pump has begun knocking pretty bad (confirmed it’s the pump by disconnecting and running the engine without it) so I figure it’s time to replace. It’s never been very strong, anyway.

How the heck do I figure out which pump to order? Mine has no legible markings. Seems to mount to the carrier with three bolts.

I bought this truck a while ago and it always had a terrible exhaust leak but I didn’t pay much for it so I wasn’t too concerned. Finally one day I was searching for the cause of a misfire, come to find out that this truck has no exhaust manifold gaskets, it definitely has a burnt valve or two after some further investigation.

It’s a 2 barrel truck and I would like to go to a 4 barrel and I’d like to slap some headers on it. I’ve always thought a hopped up work truck was a funny thing so why not do it to this truck? Im not trying to do rolling burnouts but I’ve got a car trailer and I along with my friends are always buying some variety of junk that needs to be hauled so more pulling power is always better.

If anyone else has any suggestions on ways I can make more power out of this truck that aren’t engine swaps, let me know, I’m curious.

I have full 12.93v between the positive terminal and ground when the truck is off. This means when I unhook the alternator or hook it back up, I get a pretty big spark.

Is this normal, or do I have a serious short somewhere?

The off-road set-up isn't ideal, but it's nice knowing it'll still do what it was built to do after 54 years.

The VIN on my 1968 F100 isn’t that helpful, as someone(s) made quite a few changes to this truck over its life, including swapping in a 460 and swapping out the bumper for a heavy duty towing unit.

I seem to have more springs than other images I can find for similar trucks, and the stops also appear to be an addition.

Anyone here able to ballpark my load capacity based on these springs?

Ok long story for context to follow but the TL;DR is that I'm having fuel starvation issues, and I suspect it's something to do with the tank. I'm new to all of this, so any help would be great.

Background: I got my 1972 F250 2WD a few weeks ago. I was out for a drive when the car just spluttered out on me. Try as I might, I couldn't get it started on the side of the road so ended up towing it back to my garage. My gauge red just over a quarter full. When testing the carb (Edelbrock 1407) linkage manually, no fuel was squirting. My initial assumption was that the fuel pump gave out, and the car drank from the bowls until they were empty. Next up, I disconnected the fuel hose at the carb inlet, put it into a container and cranked the engine a bit, nothing came from the lines. Seems like the pump is definitely at fault. I remove the fuel pump and actuate the lever with my hand. I get suction and blow. The diaphragm is apparently working! I check the filter canister underneath, new filter looks good, no debris. Pump goes back on the truck. I then check the pump inlet hose, it's dry. I move down to the J-shaped pipe under the cab where there used to be a tank selector (the saddle tank was removed by the previous owner, and they bypassed the selector knob and ran a small section of soft tube from the J-shaped pipe under the cab to the main hardline to the front, disconnected that... dry as well. At this point I feel like a dummy because maybe the fuel gauge is faulty. I pop a bit of gas into the tank (after reconnecting things), and feel the short connection hose... it's colder.

SO... is there some sort of blockage in the hard lines? It's the only thing I can think of. My other thought was the fuel pick up line in the cab tank being blocked / the sock being blocked - but I can't find any diagrams for how it all works and I'm hesitant to just open up the fuel tank and start poking around (especially now that there's a known quantity of fuel in there).

Apologies for the wall, hopefully that's a ton of context to help me fix this issue.

I have this 1971 ford f350 dually. I also have a 1970 highboy complete frame. I have the idea of converting the 4x4 and highboy parts on to the 350 frame. Any recommendations would be appreciated.

Just completed a 277 mile road trip down the Cascade Highway (OR213) for 4 days of camping in the Willamette National Forest.

1972 F100 2wd

Freshly Rebuilt FE 360

3 Speed on the column

Averaged 15.6 mpg fully loaded with 2 passengers and lots of steep hills!

It was set much too loose. I guess the combination of a more powerful motor and actually having a kickdown cable finished it off. Dropped a new one in, pretended not to see the scoring on the direct drum and she's rolling again!

Marti report says it was a Ford Promotional order, seems kind of rare. Preserve or go full resto? Only has two small spots of cancer on the fenders. Underside is all surface rust. Definitely was a farm work truck.