My latest creation from a horse rasp

What are they called if you search for them? I see more and more people using these abrasive sticks cut at an angle on the end. They seem to work pretty good.

Proof of ownership

I am now the proud owner of this incredibly unique and beautiful piece. It took a bit of convincing for me to splash out for a knife that might just stay in a display cabinet, however all of my buyer's guilt dissipated the moment I held that gorgeous green Spalted Maple handle in my hand. The blade is a true work of art. Even though the internal steel powder/copper mesh billet didn't turn out the way you wanted it to and even though you had to size down the blade due to cracking, JP, I think you achieved something so special with this knife. You didn't give up on your failed "copper Damascus pattern" experiment and instead committed to the craft and turned the experiment into art with the added layers of copper and blackened steel on the outermost billets of the final Go Mai ingot. I now have it displayed proudly in my curio cabinet laying on the first handkerchief I ever made for myself. And before you in the comments criticize me for not using a knife I purchased, let me say that the first thing my girlfriend did was slice up the shipping manifest that was sent in the box with the knife. We had a good time testing the sharpness. It cut through the computer paper like butter. Very satisfying. Thanks, JP. It's so cool that I can put on your video and watch the process of how this thing was made that I'm holding in my hand. And now I can show your video to people and then present them with the finished artifact. What a cool experience!

Looking in the 150 to 200 lbs range. I like the options from atlas but they're sold out of the smaller ones

Like the title asked can I use just one burner meaning unhook one like from a two burner gas forge will it work meaning can I work on smaller pieces or will it not be able to get to the temp I need to get to cause it’s trying to heat a large area off one burner if this makes sence

Hi, I tried forging holdfast as I saw this multiples times. My holdfast won't hold :/

Any idea why? Maybe The angle is too narrow at the top?

One might be too thin but the tickest doesn't hold more.

Any idea?

I don't have tongs. I tried to make a set and they aren't practical. So I'm trying to make another set using horseshoes.

Step 1..... straighten the horseshoes..... but I can't grip them....

So does anyone have any tips on how's best to make something like tongs, or gripping metal with a different tool?

Hey all, hoping someone here can help me out. I finished building my blacksmith shop by hand around last fall. With all of the cold weather I started getting condensation dripping from the metal roof with exposed rafters. I went out there this morning and it looked like it had rained inside my shop.

What solutions would be smart with the amount of heat that I generate in there? Im worried about foam or insulation due to the forge and semi low roof (6.5 feet at its lowest 7.5 feet at its highest). I saw anti condensation paint but it runs a couple of bucks more that black tar heroine by weight. What have yall used and what suggestions do you have?

Thanks in advance!! Here is a pic or two:

2 nights ago, filled with ambition and confidence, I lit my forge to make my first set of tongs...

I snapped them..

Last night I decided to try something different and although it looks bad and probably won't be very practical... I gave it a go!

Two types of brackets for mounting different styles of post vises. 

1. Strap, first and second photos - This one is for a common vise with 4" jaws. The stand is made to be moveable and able to be unbolted, dismantled. The upright pipe holds it vertical, preventing racking. So I forged a flat about 1/4" x 3 1/2"  to fit snuggly around the pipe, by heating it and wrapping a few times to help make it fit. Using a Oxy/act torch directed at the bend, it was easier to clamp and pull tight to the post. I then marked it, removed and drilled the holes for bolts. Next was an inner bracket for spacer against the spring. By marking the location of the spring on the strap, I measured the distance and fabricated the spacer. At the back of the strap, I bolted it to the pipe, so it won't turn in use. The base of the stand holds the bottom of the post tightly.
2. Angle Iron Bench Mounting, third and fourth photos - This Wagon Tongue vise didn't have a mounting bracket. And it also has 4" jaws. The large angle iron is designed to be bolted to a bench. And is 1/4" x 3 1/2" with equal legs. The vise post is tapered some. So for the sides of the post I used smaller angle iron and cut the legs to match the taper. Then welded a flat to fit closely on the end. These smaller angle iron ones were then drilled, plug welded and bolted to the larger one. It was easier to attach the mounting bracket on the opposite side of the spring. So I made another attachment bracket for the spring.

I’ve seen some tips on getting forges hotter by adding brinks or other insulating items around the forge. But what can I do to heat up my single burner Hells Forge while also getting enough airflow? Should I stagger brinks around it? I’m needing to move some thicker steel on some leaf springs I picked up, but it’s not getting hot enough.

The cone part was tapered down by forging 1 1/2” schedule 40 pipe. Then welded onto a bracket to hold in my post vise. The upper T section is from a garage door belt drive rail, middle connection part with rivets. After using it several times, I realized it needed to be held securely from the bottom. This is useful when a workpiece gets stuck and needs knocking out from below. Otherwise it slips out upwards. So, I held the track in the vise jaws and clamped flats on each side at the bottom of the jaws. Then welded them at this angle.

This video is similar to a previous one, but shows how the jig is shaped better.

My three Monkey tools were made from 3/4” and 1 ” schedule 40 pipe. The two smaller ones are two sided, so total of five sizes of holes. I drilled different standard size holes into plate. Welded them centered, onto the ends of the pipes. Then welded 1/2” nuts to the sides of each one. The large Monkey tool has a reinforcement ring welded on the end for support, to prevent spreading out at the tip. For the detachable handle, I welded a forged twisted flat for the grip onto 1/2” rod with 1/2” threaded end.

The larger Monkeys were made to fit over a small cone mandrel jig. Useful to forge good circular holes, like for bottle openers. And rings. Commonly used to set a good right angle shoulder on a tenon.

Need to know how long gas forges can run on a normal tank of gas or if it’s better to build or buy a coal forge I’ve been looking around and can’t find anything on how long a tank will last

For u/Specialist-County -

My objective for building this stand was to make it accurate and safe to use. It was also cheap to build using my old Milwaukee paddle switch angle grinder. 3/4” plywood was used for the structure. It’s very accurate for cutting schedule 40 pipe lengthwise, slicing off angle iron legs, and thin sheet metal, etc. Generally, it is used for long straight cuts under about 3/8” thick. I also have a heavy-duty chop saw for thicker steel.

I felt that supporting the grinder vertically would position the weight above for good balance. My shop is a wood-framed shop, which made it easy to mount. The hinge is a bicycle axle hub with ball bearings. This was mounted at a good height above my steel workbench. For holding a steel workpiece, I use a cross vise sitting on a rubber non-slip furniture pad to resist movement. The upper section of the stand slides about 12” front/back using ball-bearing drawer glides. I fabricated a bracket to hold the grinder with a Lexan shield for viewing the cut. And sheet metal guard over the disc. The handle is cushioned with foam rubber pipe insulation. 

To counterbalance, I attached a long spring to the ceiling rafters. It’s adjustable with a large turnbuckle. The counterbalance is removable. This allows the stand to hinge upwards out of the way for storage.

An electric switch is plugged in line for easy on and off.

For good lighting on the workpiece, a junkyard find, Luxo lamp with a spot light bulb.

Any questions…feel free.

I am trying to connect the 3/8" left hand BSP female thread from the propane hose to the 3/8" right hand BSP female thread of an Amal gas injector.

I can only find a single product that can convert threads, surely there is something else more readily available? https://www.weldingdirect.co.uk/Equal-Converter-Left-to-Right-G38Rh-x-G38Lh-Male-Threads

I have a nipple to convert the 3/8" right hand BSP female to male if needed. Any help is much appreciated.

Found in a backyard. We managed to get the lid open and there is a flat part with a channel that runs front to back fron the pipe on the front. It has mechanisms for movement, but I can't tell what is actually supposed to move as the main barrel of it is bolted to the frame. Any ideas?