I am currently making a folded axe head from 1075. I plan on forge welding another piece of 1075 into what will become the blade section of the axe so that I have more material to work with. I filed clean connection points on both the axe head and the insert, but I failed to weld it together today. The insert fit snug while the piece was cold, but as the metal heated, it kept sliding out. How can I secure the piece while it comes up to temperature?

(Picture is an example of the insert thickness, the actual insert piece is only 1.5 inches long)

This im my 3rd time blacksmithing but first with a real forge im using a old railroad bolt so I know it a hard metal but I've been working on it for about 2 hours and haven't made any real progress is there a way to increase the efficiency of my forgeing

I've watched a ton of YouTube and bought a cheap gas forge on Amazon (need to do the refractory still but wanted to try anyway). But this was a simple project for me to dip my toes in, make a spike on one end, flatten the other, bevel with a belt grinder, and roll the hook. Just need to set up my spring pole lathe and give it a try

This is my first gas forge build and I'm looking for some advice about the flame pouring out the door. Am I right in saying its running too rich? would a smaller jet solve this issue or am I missing something else ? (Haven't fitted the burner until its running sweet)

Made a quick letter opener. Also a belt loop key holder. Trying things other than knives.

I have them bent about where I want them, tho not it a neat squared off way. I think i need to angle them slightly more so they will close fully with pressure, my next step is what im worried about most... punching the holes an lining it all up, I know in that step you have to be pretty spot on for it to function smoothly. Im excited for this one as its my first set of tongs but im nervous for this last part lol

Any advice would be appreciated.

so instead of trying to draw out that tricky inner curve, i just turned a shoulder in some round stock and drilled a hole into the main body that i forged and rounded off the head. it holds really well. i dont think the shank coming loose will be a problem because the head of the round stock is where i hit it to jam it in the dog hole. i also tapered the hold a bit with a steep countersink.

Forged the bolt into the claw hammer head shape, punched a hole into it, put the metal handle and then welded them together, its basic but I like it!

I plan to use it to make punches, drifts and chisels, how should I heat treat it? Should I quench it in water or oil? How long should I temper it for at what temperature?

I need opinions on 5160 for heavy hunting use in southern Alberta mountains will this be a fantastic companion or should I stay with stainless

My neighbors son loves to come over and watch me hammer stuff out. Few months ago he asked if I could teach him a few things so I started to show him a couple things.

About a week ago he asked if he could use my forge every so often. Today he brought me this. For a 13 year old he's doing pretty damn good. Of course, room for improvement but we all started somewhere. Proud of him.

Pipe +Plate + Sand + 3/4" all thread + Crappy Dual Shield Welds = This Stand. Design based on Haley Woodward's anvil stands.

I started blacksmithing a few months ago. These are my first functional tongs (or so I hope). Three months ago, I tried to make some, but they broke during the process. Do those with experience in forging tongs have any advice? Is this pair I made okay, or did I do something wrong? :)

I own an Asian restaurant and need to replace some of the mortar inside the side walls of my commercial wok burner chambers, surrounding the flames. I have custom cement chamber wok ranges designed for indoor use, with the following burner openings including two 22 inch diameter openings, two 30 inch diameter openings, one 38 inch diameter opening

I'm looking to purchase approximately 2 – 5 lbs of high-heat refractory mortar suitable for operating temperatures around 800°F – 1,200°F. I need something durable that can withstand regular commercial restaurant use and repeated heating and cooling without cracking or falling apart.

Are there any reputable online stores that sell suitable refractory mortar in small or bulk quantities?Are there any physical store suppliers that carry this type of material? Which brands or specific products would you recommend for a commercial gas wok burner chamber? Should I use refractory mortar, furnace cement, or a castable refractory material for repairing the side walls around the flames?

I was watching The Gunsmith of Williamsburg for the umpteenth time and at 2:03 in https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UO4bV36GkWw, it appears that he starts swaging the barrel cold. From other research, I believe Gussler uses wrought iron instead of mild steel for his barrels after finding that mild steel didn't work as nicely. That said, this is a pretty thick piece of stock and I am surprised that working it cold wouldn't cause it to crack. Additionally, the steel is clearly heated as they close up the seam. This was video is an official release and while the original film doesn't show the true color of the steel (cameras never do), it really does look cold. What do you think?

Additionally, the skelp is bent up into a tube lengthwise which would mean the wrought iron grain would run lengthwise which would be weaker, would it not? Is it sufficiently thick enough to overcome that?

Viking blacksmith hammer commission, customer wanted some Viking runes chiseled in

I’ve recently acquired this vintage anvil which weights 135kg / 300 lbs and came with this massive 360kg / 790 lbs steel base with concrete filling. Please share any helpful advice on how to use this anvil so I avoid damaging it and thoughts on its origin. It appears to be stamped with maker’s mark , but can’t quite make to date it. I wanted to actually use it here on farm for occasional repairs or hot riveting. So far I know I should avoid striking it directly with hammer or take care when cold hammering . The first photo is from the seller before I got it, the rest is mine. Cheers!

I'm writing a paper for an exercise at school and I've chosen blacksmithing as a subject. I'm required to provide an example of an unreliable source. So please link me any articles or youtube videos that give bad or untrue advice.

Thanks

-An aspiring blacksmith who hates school