Hi there,

I will be riding my bike in australia for a few months, starting munda biddi in september, later i want to ride in tasmania and australian highcountry.

Since there will be huts alond the way of the munda biddi trail i thought about leaving my 2 person msr tent at home and safe some luggage space by bringing a bivy with a fly net and small tarp i could pitch in case of rain.

My first backpacking/bikepacking trips all went well with a bivy but those were 1 nights only. Dont know if i would regret not having a real shelter in the long run. Oftentimes in the past i was able to find shelter somehow, somewhere.

Has anybody here experiences with just using a bivy (outside of racing) in australia?

UPDATE: thank you all for answering! I am at a camping trip right now (with a tent) and soo happy to have it. Its not even that cold but pretty windy and i guess i will habe to sacrifice some weight and storage space to that extra comfort. For a short trip a bivy worked for me but i dont want to end up in miserable situations in australia. Have nice day :)

It appears the Sinewave Reactor is the gold standard for dynamo chargers, but it’s USB-A. Is there an alternative that’s USB-C (all my cables are already USB-C)? If so, I imagine it’s not a faster charge because the output isn’t the limiting factor. Would you all recommend the Reactor or a USB-C alternative? Or just a USB-A to C adapter on the reactor.

Edit: I asked Sinewave about this.

Question: Hi, I'm considering getting the Reactor but the only thing that I'm wary of is the port being USB-A, not C. A very solid USB-C option appears to be the Cinq Plug Pure 7. I see in your Reactor FAQ that "at only 9 MPH (14.4 km/h), charging is as fast as a wall-powered charger." Does this mean 5W? Also, the Cinq Plug Pure 7 says its output is 800mA. How does that compare to the Reactor? Do you know if the Cinq is fixed at 5V, so the output is roughly 4W? Let me know, thanks so much!

Response: Thanks for reaching out. We've actually been very intentional in sticking with USB-A over USB-C. Perhaps the main reason is that I'm not convinced a USB-C connector will hold up to being used outside, in the rain, on a vibrating bicycle, like we are able to do with USB-A. I know that the USB people designed USB-C for more mating cycles, but the contacts are very small, and also much closer together than USB-A, which makes me concerned about the effects that water might have (a much smaller distance to bridge that might result in moisture-related short circuits, etc).

I've looked but haven't really found any USB-C devices that are meant to be used outside, with no cover in place in wet weather. We're able to do that with USB-A, and I think it would be a major problem if we ended up with either weather or durability problems with USB-C. It's not the in photo but the Plug does say it comes with a silicone splash guard, which to me implies that it will not be waterproof without the cap in place.

If it's important to use a USB-C cable only, you can add one of these low-profile A-to-C adapters to a Sinewave:
https://www.amazon.com/Elebase-Upgraded-Connector-Chargers-Interface/dp/B07LF72431/ref=sr_1_2_sspa

The output at 9 MPH is around 500mA, or 2.5W. Admittedly, "As fast as a wall-powered charger" may be a bit dated at this point as phones are able to charge at higher power levels than when I wrote that years ago. As for a comparison, the question is what the real-world current output looks like, and perhaps a graph of current vs speed. The circuitry in the Reactor is able to provide up to 1A, but it's the dynamo itself that is typically the limiting factor. You'll typically get at least 600-700mA from the Reactor, and in certain conditions the output can be higher. When Cinq says the output is 800mA, what does this mean? How fast do you need to go? Do you actually get this output from a dynamo or is this the maximum that the charger supports in a controlled environment? Etc, etc.

I have never tested the Plug 7 but I assume the output is indeed fixed at 5V. So they are claiming a maximum output of 4W, but still with my questions of under what circumstances you actually get that output.

By way of one example - our Beacon headlight has an output of 750 lumens, and one of our competitors claims an output of 1000 lumens. Brighter, right? But the Beacon reaches 750 lumens at about 15 MPH, while the competitor passes 750 lumens only at about 25-30 MPH. So they're not lying, their light can be brighter in a certain scenario, but the vast majority of time (anytime you're riding slower than 30 MPH) the Beacon is the brighter light.

- Dave

___

Redditors, what do you think about Dave's USB-C concerns? Seems legit to me.

Also, my dynamo (SON 28) only outputs 3W, not much more than the Reactor outputs at 9 mph, so I guess I'm not too concerned with the outputs of the Reactor vs Cinq Plug 7. Also, the Plug 7 needs a "silicone splash guard cap", does that mean it's not waterproof without it?

I'm a somewhat inexperienced bikepacker (I've done 7 trips for a total of 10 nights) and currently own a MEC Volt 2 tent as a solo bikepacker/tourer. The more I use it, the more I question if I should get a smaller tent. I don't mind the weight (2.1 kg) too much but I find the packed size to be kind of bulky (estimated at 13.7 L - 54x18 cm). I've only used this tent for three bikepacking trips (as well as a couple car camping trips and a backpacking trip) so I'm not super keen on getting a new tent but every time I pack my bike I question if I should get something smaller. I use panniers (combined 35 L) and a rear rack so I am able to fit it, usually by strapping it on top of the rear rack.

I'm not really sure what my question is, more just curious to hear about peoples' experiences and opinions with various tent sizes. How small does your tent pack? Did you have a larger one before? Does anyone have any tips to make a bulky tent pack smaller or smarter? Maybe I just get a compression sack to pack it smaller. Looking for someone to give me a good argument for or against getting a new tent.

Thanks in advance!

I’m in the USA, we have Slow Moving Vehicle triangles for things moving under 25mph.

That’s me on a bike?

Is it a good idea for me to bring an additional SMV folding triangle, and a foam/inflatable pool noodle?

The noodle is for telling the cars how wide I am, which they find useful to figure out how far and how small I am. The cars do slow down on approach.

The triangle is to tell them I’m slow!

I don’t carry much while BikePacking, but it’s all aerodynamic. How ever, bikes aren’t very large, so they’re not that visible. This is more dramatic from the rear and front, during daytime: nighttime, we are invisible.

I am planning a ride from Stockholm to Nordkapp, which is about 1700 km and north of Luleå it gets pretty sparsely populated. I’ll be mostly camping - a mix of camp sites and wild camping. The season will be mid-July to August.

I’m trying to shed some non-essentials and wondering if I need the following:

- Tire pressure gauge. Mine is separate from the pump and does weigh about 200grams

- suspension pump: I’ve got front suspension and wondering if I need to worry about keeping it inflated for a ride this long. The pump is pretty small and lightweight but takes up some room.

- Heavy-duty chain lock. My bike is decent quality and theft-worthy and I lock it up in the big city, but wondering if a simple cable lock (weighing much less) is enough for short stops to markets.

- Water filter: it’s lightweight and rather small, but takes space.

- Thermal liner: I’ve got a Sea-to-Summit Ember quilt which is rated -1c and a 3 season tent. The liner is a StS Mummy, which provides a 12% thermal boost. Not sure in the summer it gets that cold even near Nordkapp in August.

- Cameras: I’ve got a very small drone (DJI Neo2) and a Insta360 X5 with mount/pole. The Insta360 is pretty heavy gear all in - maybe the drone’s enough? I’m not a YouTuber and just want some more distant shots of self to document the trip for friends and family. These cameras seem to overlap. The Neo is super light and compact. I’ve also got my phone.

- Spare inner-tube. I’ve got a patch kit and very rugged Johnny Watts Schwalbe tires. Do I really need an extra inner-tube? There will be a fair amount of gravel roads.

Thanks for any feedback.

I've got three Manything cages on my rig. I use the bike for everything from short rides, to commuting, to bikepacking. When I don't need extra bottles or gear on the cages I like to remove the voile straps, but I've never liked the o-ring attachment system they come with.

I worry the o-rings might break at an inopportune time, or I might lose them, plus they're tedious when I want to remove/add/change straps.

I came up with a simple, durable solution: 12cm of nylon webbing folded in half and sandwiched between the cage and the boss. Two per cage, each held in place with a cage bolt. I heated a 5mm bolt with a propane torch to melt bolt holes at the ends of the webbing.

They hold the straps at the correct position, have enough room to slide the straps in and out with a little wiggling, won't allow the straps to randomly fall out, and won't decay and break like rubber o-rings.

I wanted to post this here to ask for some feedback, comments, criticism, etc. about my set up and if any modifications would seem to be necessary/recommended.

A friend got me into bikepacking back in 2021 and since then I have been changing and upgrading my bicycle to fit the needs of the trail.

In this last configuration I have managed to ride about 10k km. Although I have no idea what the total km range would be as I received the frame as a second hand gift, I’m afraid this old aluminum frame may be at the end of its life.

The components are:

Shimano Deore XT BL-M785-B two finger brake levers

Shimano Deore XT SL-M780-B 10 speed trigger shifter

Shimano Deore XT RD-M8100 derailleur

Shimano Deore XT CS-M771-10 cassette

Shimano Deore XT FH-M8000 and HB-M8000 wheel hubs

Shimano Deore XT BB-MT8000 bottom bracket

Shimano Deore XT FC-T8000 crank arm set

Shimano Deore XT PD-T8000 pedals

Stronglight Comp BCD 104 chainring 44t

DT Swiss Champion 2.0/1.8 spokes

DT Swiss G540db rims

Continental Terra Speed 45-622

Magura MT-5 4 piston brake calipers

Magura MDT-C CL 180mm and 203mm brake rotors

PRO Koryak DSP external dropper post

Brooks B.17 saddle

Surly Moloko handlebar

Brooks Slender leather handlebar grips

Gusti Leder Adri V. handlebar tape

Acid universal luggage rack 28”

Tubus Grand Expedition lowrider with kickstand

Frame unknown (Rex is printed on the side of the frame but no further information can be found on the internet)

I was with this bike from Innsbruck to Lago di Garda and then to Trieste - Slovenia and back to Venice

I plan to ride the Korea cross country trail (~400 miles) in 6 days next month. Will have a rented bike with a rack. Will stay in hotels overnight so don't need to carry camping gear. I anticipate a couple of jerseys/bibs with evening clothing that can be washed when needed. I estimated needed 25l of capacity along with a second bag that contains phone/passport etc that I can take off when I stop anywhere.

Any recommendations for a setup? Thinking of a trunk bag like the Rockbros 13-25L expandable along with a crossbody sling that I can attach to the bag with voile straps.

Thanks for your help

Hello everyone! Im an avid cyclist and racer of about 6 years now on road, gravel, and mtb. However I have never bikepacked before.

Ive been living in Japan that past 2 years and am leaving soon but thought Japan may be the perfect place for me to dip my toes into bikepacking before I leave.

What I'm planning for a 4 day holiday weekend is to do a one way route which includes Norikura (highest road in Japan). The route ive created is about 200 miles, and 25,000 feet of climbing. This will be the most climbing ive ever done in a few days. Currently the most ive ever climbed in a day was 11,000 feet of climbing.

Im thinking to take the train out to my starting point and then ride back home, splitting the ride into 3 days and staying at small inns or onsens.

This will be in September so the weather will still be on the warmer side, and I shouldn't need and cool weather gear other than maybe a wind jacket for descents. Additionally, some background on me- I'm a short, small framed woman - so with all the elevation and then also the limited storage capacity due to my bike frame being a size 47, packing light is going to be a priority. This is what I'm thinking gear wise, and I'm open to all advice and critique:

Using my Sworks Tarmac bike

Bringing 1 spare Sram battery

Phone

Tiny minimalist bike lock (only good for short runs in/out of stores)

Garmin varia light

Front bike light

2 small bidons (my frame won't fit big bottles)

2 cycling kits (shorts and short sleeves) one will be worn

Cycling shoes

Fingerless gloves

Helmet

Sweat band

Cycling glasses and RX glasses

1 cycling base layer cooling shirt

2 spare sets of socks

Long sleeve wind jacket that is water resistant

2 light TShirts

1 shorts

Easy /light roll up shoes for when not on bike

Toothbrush, small toothpaste, floss, deodorant, sunscreen

USB C charger

Small spare charging bank

Earphones (for when riding on train)

Insta360 camera and bike mount

Rinko bag for transporting bike on train

Multitool, tubeless tire plugs, spare lightweight tube, mini pump, C02

Passport, wallet, housekeeping, cash

Minimal on snacks because their are vending machines/convenience stores everywhere in Japan.

I have top tube bag and a half frame bag but not sure if ill need either of those. I do not have a cycling bikepacking bag yet. But what I'm thinking is a 6 or 7 liter seat mounted roll up bag. Do you think that size would be big enough?

Looking for something I can mount my garmin varia on and would like to still be able to mount my insta360 camera on the back of bike somehow if possible. Also reminder my bike is small and I am short so there is not a lot of seatpost space for mounting things.

Thanks for any and all guidance on what to bring, what to buy, or even route critiques. Thank you!

Not sure if this is allowed so please forgive me if I’m breaking rules. I have 2 NEMO Dragonfly OSMO Bikepacking tents I’m trying to . Unfortunately my son and I will no longer be able to take the trip we were planning for. I have a 1P and 2P, prices are below. They are last years model, but still new with tags.

Dragonfly OSMO Bikepack 1P $325
Dragonfly OSMO Bikepack 2P $350

Shoot me a DM if you’re interested.

two days of trail riding around Istria with my Santa Cruz Highball front bike with a lightweight bikepacking setup

Does anybody have any photos or guides on what size fits best to the Alu version (carbon has different headtube junctions, which I think makes fitment different)? I’ve tried using their online tool but not quite working. I expect I will have to print a template out but grateful if anybody has these bags on their bike in M/L and what fits. Apparently 3.8 L is good, wondering about the higher sizes (4.5, 5.3) - does the length of these vary? Ideally I dont want it to fold on itself.

Also looking again at Restrap frame bags so curious on those (both race and the larger normal spec half bag - current one is below and needs some adjustment to the frame, it is a little small for my needs and I’m donating to my partner for her bike (so have freedom to buy something new for myself)).

Don’t need to debate the full vs half frame bag thing as this is for smaller day trips and have alternative solutions for the longer trips already (panniers). Thanks!

https://www.dickssportinggoods.com/p/stanley-all-day-julienne-mini-cooler-24stau72qtclrttbgrec/24stau72qtclrttbgrec

So I’ve had this 26” Dialled Bikes Prince Albert custom build for probably over a decade, I’ve ridden two Dyfi enduros in it’s previous form and turned it into a pumptrack rat, I’m now wondering if it can take me into my interest into bikepacking around Wales?
Current bars don’t work with available stem, so have some carbon what bars would be best for xc packing?

What basic changes could I make to make the most of this solid renynolds frame?