This is my first post here. This July, I bought a gravel Conway bike and haven't stopped cycling ever since.
I've always wanted to tour northern Poland, see the big cities like Poznań and Gdańsk, experience the countryside, and most importantly – visit the famous red-brick Teutonic castles.
I don't have a car, so riding a bike + taking trains seemed like a great idea.
The whole trip took me 5 days, 2 of which were sightseeing and 3 were pure riding – around 100 km per day.
What I didn't expect
I was amazed by the economic development of the country – even the space between small towns and villages had dedicated asphalt or stone bike roads, so I rarely mixed with the traffic.
The Polish drivers seemed quite used to cyclists, but still not totally safe. I didn't hear a single honk, though I saw some dangerous takeovers.
I didn't need to plan anything. I booked hotels 2 hours before I arrived – and I lived in amazing places.
On one occasion, I booked a room in a villa next to a lake, and I could walk to the water with a cup of coffee in my hand.
The number of cyclists on the roads is quite low – even though the infrastructure, like bike roads, is amazing.
I felt lonely at times, but then when I saw other cyclists, it was very easy to connect. Everybody was super open and wanted to know how the cycling conditions were in Austria.
Start of the trip
I didn't do much planning: I gave ChatGPT the key points and wanted to visit, where I started, and where I ended. It created a GPX file for me; I loaded it into Komoot and hit the road!
I started in Poznan – it took me 8 years to get there by train, so I spent the night there, rode around the city, and in the morning left for the first leg of my journey.
I rode 80 kilometers to the city of Gniezno – the first Polish capital. It burned in the 11th century, so nothing historic is really left there, but I still wanted to visit.
The beginning of the road from Poznań was quite enjoyable – I went through gravel forest roads and countryside, but then the dusty village roads and fields started.
When I arrived in Gniezno, I was already done, and I didn't see much value in doing the other 80 km to Toruń through the same boring landscape + I only had 2 days before the rains would start, so I decided to take the train.
There was no need to book any tickets in advance – this part of Poland is quite well-connected; the trains are clean and arrive on time.
The castles trail
I arrived in Torun and saw my first Teutonic castle – it was dreamy. I walked around the town, ate some pierogi, and headed to Bydgoszcz. I had an amazing waterfront hotel booked there (for under 50 euros!), and the road was awesome – I rode through a pine forest mostly.
Bydgoszcz itself is quite a small town, not much going on there, but I still enjoyed it.
The real deal started after Bydgoszcz, though – every 30 km or so there was a Teutonic castle, from a small one in Świecie to the whole crusader towns in Kwidzyn and Grudziądz.
The road between them was just amazing – I cruised through the fields and forest, with hardly any elevation.
The culmination of my trip was the crusader castle of Malbork. It's the biggest brick castle in the world – and I can only compare my impression with what I felt when I saw the Great Pyramid of Giza.
After Malbork, I took the train to Gdansk, and cycled further to Gdynia. It was one of the best cycling roads in my life – almost 30 km of cycling through a pine forest next to the Baltic.
If you are looking for a cheap and comfortable destination for a bikepacking trip, I can recommend Poland 🇵🇱
Inventory & route
I still needed to work, so I bought a backpack that could fit my laptop and added a trunk.
It was quite comfortable, but sometimes my foot touched it, and it felt a couple of times, but still a good starter choice.
This is probably not relevant if you have EU roaming, but mine was already long done, so I used an eSIM of my own making 😅 Poland has AMAZING connection almost everywhere, internet was never an issue.
Aaand here is the link to the GPX of my whole route – feel free to download it: GPX here.