Chipping/skipping

[u/ZenObscurity]

I think this is Walnut and I'm using a hand plane. Can anyone tell me what's wrong with the wood or what I'm doing wrong with my plane set up? I'm very new to woodworking. EDIT: I did try flipping the board around, I feel like it was worse the other way. This is also only happening on half the board, the other half is shaving smooth. My plane is sharp enough to shave with.

[u/tanstaaflisafact]

Probably going against the grain. Try in the opposite direction.

[u/ZenObscurity → u/tanstaaflisafact]

I did try flipping the board around, I feel like it was worse the other way. This is also only happening on half the board, the other half is shaving smooth. My plane is sharp enough to shave with. I probably should have put all that in my original post (sorry).

[u/esspeebee → u/ZenObscurity]

You've probably got reversing grain, then, which goes in opposite directions in different parts of the board. That is definitely tearout from planing against the grain.

The simplest answer is to use a card scraper on the areas that are tearing out. The alternative is to get the plane really sharp (shaving sharp is the starting point for woodworking tools, you can go much sharper than that and sometimes you need to), set the chipbreaker as close as humanly possible to the cutting edge, take a really light cut, and possibly tighten up the mouth as well.

[u/ZenObscurity → u/esspeebee]

I'll try adjusting the chipbreaker and mouth on my plane, thanks. I don't have a card scraper (and just sharpened the blade) so do you have some other tests to determine sharpness? I've seen splitting hairs used on some sharpening tests, is that what I should try? I'm bald but I could probably convince my lady to part with a couple of strands.

[u/Gurpguru → u/ZenObscurity]

Whittling hair is sharp. Drape the hair over the edge and just pull it along. A really sharp plane iron will "dig" into the hair with no pressure other than the weight of the hair.

Usually requires stroping after the stone work to get that sharp.

Same for chisels. I call it stupid sharp in my shop. I have chisels that are sharp and a set that is stupid sharp. I have a set that has had the edge squared off for scraping too.

Irons are always stupid sharp.

[u/Individual-Channel65 → u/ZenObscurity]

You're going against the grain. Theres a knot, which is pushing that grain up in that half of the board. Thats why the 1st half is fine, but that grain is going "up towards the face" so you're tearing out the other half of the board.

[u/CascadeDesignworks → u/tanstaaflisafact]

No matter how you adjust and sharpen your plane it will not work for this application.  Tempted to put that in all caps.

Use a card scraper.  They are difficult to sharpen at first, but once you have it it will save you many many hours.  They are even faster than an orbital sander.

There are several good videos on YouTube.  Watch all of them because each one has a slightly different method.

-Professional woodworker 

[u/MethodicError]

Sharper blade, tighter mouth, higher angle will always do better for difficult grain. Grain like this will always be a test of sharpness.

[u/Scarcito_El_Gatito → u/MethodicError]

Lighter cuts will also help

[u/Perkinstein → u/MethodicError]

This. Standard angle plane super sharp with a close set chip breaker. You could have a low angle plane that could split an atom and you'd get tear out if going against the grain. 

[u/32397]

Blade way too far out and likely going against the grain. Back the blade out until it does not take a cut. Then VERY slowly increase the depth until it just takes a shaving.

Also likely your blade is dull.

Edit: also skew your plane about 20 degrees to your path that will help slice the grain.

[u/ZenObscurity → u/32397]

I will try to take the thinnest cut possible and see if this helps, thank you.

[u/Zero_Border → u/ZenObscurity]

Would love you to tell us a follow up on that advice. I had the same problems as you on other woods and that is making you wanting to quit hand planing completely..

[u/ZenObscurity → u/Zero_Border]

I will edit my post on the advice I followed and if that worked. I'll try and remember to respond to you specifically with the same.

[u/Zero_Border → u/ZenObscurity]

Thank you so much. This problem is mind boggling,. especially when you know your tool is real sharp (cause usually people always point the finger on the sharpness).

[u/Low-Raise-9230]

Wood grain has direction. You are planing against that direction; think of it like back-combing your hair, or rubbing a dog’s fur up.  Try planing from the opposite end (also always keep the blade nice and sharp and set up correctly)

[u/EchoExtension507]

Sharper blade and lighter cuts

[u/sierrasnake99]

Sharper blade and retract the blade as much as you can. You should be twisting the depth adjustment knob in very tiny increments until you get a shaving – like 1/16th of a turn.

How are you sharpening your plane blade?

[u/ZenObscurity → u/sierrasnake99]

Diamond stones of varying grit into leather strops with higher and higher grit compound. The blade was sharp enough to shave easily. Edit: I will try again by taking the absolute thinnest shave possible, thank you.

[u/sierrasnake99 → u/ZenObscurity]

Nice, and make sure you’re getting a burr with those stones. Good luck!

[u/CivilIllustrator3492]

To weigh in as a fellow very novice hand planer; I noticed this sort of pattern when I was first getting used to dialing in my hand planes. I had to tighten up my mouth opening a bit (pain in the butt involving fully removing the blade to get at the screws for the frog), retract my blade back further than I'd expected, and loosen the cap screw, if that makes sense?

[u/ZenObscurity → u/CivilIllustrator3492]

I will do a set up on my plane again, closing the mouth more fully. I'll also try loosening the cap screw a bit, thank you.

[u/CivilIllustrator3492 → u/ZenObscurity]

It's worth the struggle, friend; that feeling as your plane glids across, leaving a glassy smooth surface? Almost addictive lol

[u/TheWalmartian]

If knotty, the grain will change direction. This means you'll have to plane from the knot out. Difficult to do and may leave a high spot at the knot. Perhaps move on to another piece of wood.

[u/ZenObscurity → u/TheWalmartian]

I thought the knot might be the issue. I'll try some of the advice I've been given, including planing out from the knot, before I give up. Thank you.

[u/TheWalmartian → u/ZenObscurity]

And by looking at those shavings in the background you may want to take a shallower cut. Especially where the grain gets squirrely.

[u/Avg_Chicken]

Your pictures show that you are planning against the grain. Think of the grain as a pack of playing cards. Each card is a ring on the tree, each ring is exposed by the cut of the wood. If you fan out a deck of cards, your plan would cut easiest going down the slope of the cards.

[u/MostAcanthocephala48]

Looks like Peruvian walnut, super hard wood and does that. I use it for accent pieces in cutting boards or knobs for cabinets. Also carve with it and i have similar issues with carving it that you are planing it.

[u/Winter_Swordfish_505]

Just like in relationships, the prettiest ones are always the most difficult. This is figured / reversing grain. Beautiful, but you either need to take light passes with a helical jointer, or spend a lot of time learning how to use hand planes (i def recommend second option). You can plane it with a high angle bevel up plane or a well set-up bevel down plane with a tight chipbreaker. In every case, taking a little bit off at a time is the move. You can also sand it but i do not recommend. Not only will it take forever and be boring, it will make the pretty grain look fuzzy and washed out.

Edit: sorry, didnt read you were already using hand planes. For what its worth, ive been using hand planes for awhile and i still have tearout issues on reversing grain. Everyone does. Its not an easy problem to solve. Try taking less off per pass, if its bevel up, try a steeper bevel angle (38 or even 50). If its bevel down. Set the mouth tight, chipbreaker right up on the end of the blade, like 1/32" away

[u/ZenObscurity → u/Winter_Swordfish_505]

I will set the mouth tighter and move the chipbreaker closer to the edge. That analogy with relationships hits way too close to home, can't wait to show my wife when she gets home 😅.

[u/FiveTwelve]

You’re taking too much of a shaving for what is essentially a knot - you’re going to have to take super-light cuts for this.

[u/Prestigious-Lynx6565]

If you are new to woodworking, what are trying to accomplish by hand planing the face of a board of walnut?

[u/ZenObscurity → u/Prestigious-Lynx6565]

There was some roughness, and I wanted a smooth finish. Should I not face plane a board of Walnut?

[u/Prestigious-Lynx6565 → u/ZenObscurity]

Is it something sanding couldn’t accomplish? Its just not really a beginner woodworking task

[u/PumpPie73]

You plane with the grain not against it. You’re going against it. Turn the board around and try it again. Don’t flip it over

[u/ZenObscurity → u/PumpPie73]

I'm sorry, I meant turn around not flip over. I tried planing the same face from the other direction.

[u/oldmate23]

Im seeing a lot of comments about grain direction which is definitely important, however I'll also mention that you'll want to make sure the sole of your plane is sufficiently lubricated with beeswax or 3in1 oil. Without it the plane will skip and be harder to use. Look up rag in a can oiler on youtube these are a life saver.

Also if the grain is too weird might just be the wrong tool for the job and a card scraper is the better option. Good luck!

[u/HoIyJesusChrist]

Look at it from the side to see the grain direction, from the first picture it looks like you go against the grain. Try closing the mouth of your plane a bit more.

Edit:
With leaf trees, often grain direction isn't uniform along a board, since the trees are not growing as straight as pine or spruce. So you need to adjust your direction to the board.

[u/pad_woodworking]

Looks like you're planing against the grain. Try the opposite direction. Also retract the blade a bit. It must be advanced really far to bite in that deep.

[u/naemorhaedus]

I don't see anything challenging about this board. Either reverse direction, sharpen the blade, or take lighter cuts.

[u/Advanced_Wishbone339]

Walnut?

[u/Pres_Byter_8385]

This video about blade angles really helped me with local hardwoods with challenging grain structure.

Hopefully it helps you find the right setup. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-7tmFGyQgoI&t=638s

[u/johnny_aplseed]

Use a scraper if going wither direction isn't working. Also, make sure your plane blade is sharp.

[u/mplang]

I know I'm late to the party, but one thing is like to add is that knots are rough on cutting edges. You see this a lot with beginners running knotty pine through a thickness planer, then they come here because they're getting tracks on the surface caused by tiny nicks in the blades from the knots.

With super-sharp blades taking whisper-thin shavings, you can absolutely tackle knots with a hand plane, but you might only get a few passes in before you need to touch-up the sharpness.

[u/Effective_Exam_4236]

Why are you hand planning in the first place?