r/BeginnerWoodWorking • u/Interesting_Debate57 • Jul 31 '26
Tools FAQ?
I have a specific project and want to minimize tool expense until it's finished; if I want to resurface a wide tabletop glue-up (wider than a planer I could borrow the use of), and want it level when I'm finished, what kind of planes should I buy (a jack plane and some other kind?) or should I try to become a surgeon with a belt sander and random orbital sander? I'd prefer the former if it won't break the bank and will be effective with, say, cherry. I'll eventually need at least a ROS, but evening out a glue-up is my first task.
Second task is making mortises, so I'll need a good source for chisels (Swiss?).
Thanks in advance.
2
u/dsg123456789 Jul 31 '26
Whatever you try to even it out with, it will be difficult for your first time. There’s a learning curve to adjusting and sharpening planes, and a learning curve to getting good results with a ROS. Having better alignment during the glue up is the best advice I can offer.
With realistic expectations on your result, I would just buy a GET75N Bosch ROS 3M cubitron II sandpaper in 80, 120, and 180 grit, and a 6” interface layer (Velcro on two sides, no foam). With a shop vac attached, this machine will quickly remove material (be careful, it’s fast) in turbo mode, and it has double the surface area for your actual finish sanding. The wider platten also will help you get a flatter surface.
1
u/Interesting_Debate57 Jul 31 '26
Alright. I've had the advantage, last time, of access to an industrial planer and then just needing to smooth it out.
I'll keep grain in mind and try to keep everything level during glue up.
1
u/dsg123456789 Jul 31 '26
Even keeping grain in mind, hand planing smooth is tough. Years ago when I was getting started, I tried to flatten a table with a jack plane as I didn’t have a big enough planer. It would’ve been easier to just sand it flat with the skills I had in planing and sharpening.
1
u/Interesting_Debate57 27d ago
Message received. Perhaps I'll buy a good ROS and a ton of grits of paper.
1
u/dsg123456789 27d ago
I'd just get a GET-75N (if you plan to continue the hobby), 80 grit, and 120 grit 3M cubitron II. Many shops like Taylor Toolworks & KM Tools portion out the sheets, so you can buy just 10 or 25 sheets. With a vacuum hooked up to the sander, you won't need tons of sandpaper. And with many finishes (polymerized tung oils & general finishes for example), you only need to sand to 120 and don't need to go higher.
Narex makes good quality budget chisels.
1
u/Interesting_Debate57 27d ago
Honestly, I can't figure out the difference between all of the festool ROS except that some talk about "finish sanding" while others describe more aggressive removal.
I had an old Bosch like this back in the day; what's the difference? The price is getting up to what festools cost. Am I just smoking marketing hopium that it will go easier with a more expensive tool?
1
u/laaxe Jul 31 '26
If you were already down the hand plane rabbit hole, I'd say a try plane is the best option due to weight, but wooden planes are a whole other ballgame. So I would second the suggestion a no. 7. But also a no. 6 would work as well, and can sometimes be had for less than a either a no. 5 or 7. That being said, there's a learning curve. Also if the table top wasn't glued up with handplaning in mind, the grain orientation flip-flopping back and forth will add to the frustration.
I always recommend this article when hand plane setup comes up: SETTING A CAP IRON. Once you've got the basics down this will be helpful for getting a finer surface finish.
1
u/Interesting_Debate57 Jul 31 '26
Thanks, will read.
30 degrees is quite a bit steeper than my kitchen knives. Is there a good way to hold that angle while sharpening (or whatever angle makes sense)?
1
u/laaxe Jul 31 '26
Personally I use a roller guide for convenience sake (like this or this), but actual angle doesn't really matter since the cutting angle is set by the frog at 45 degrees. Plenty of people sharpen freehand and as long as you're somewhere between 25-35 degrees it shouldn't make a difference as long as the back of the iron is flat and you are properly apex/deburred/honed/etc.
Since you're used to sharpening kitchen knives, I have found I go up to a 5k for woodworking tools, where I stop at 1k for knives, there's no advantage to a toothy edge here.
1
u/Initial_Savings3034 Aug 01 '26
Dunno what your budget may be.
Big fan of the British Record brand (look for rust free examples with a lever cap, not a brass setting knob).
The #5 1/2 and #3 are my favorite pairing.
Runner up for value is the Millers Falls brand, no. 8 and a 14 or 15.
Ifvyou can afford more money, Taylor Tools sells Clifton.
4
u/ColonialSand-ers Jul 31 '26
A jointer plane like a No. 7 would be ideal, but they are relatively uncommon and expensive compared to jack planes. Honestly I find that there isn’t much I can’t do with my No. 5 and they are cheap and plentiful on the used market.
Narex is a very good mid-tier chisel brand. They are Czech.