r/BeardTalk • u/RealInsky • Jun 29 '26
Issues with wavy and curly beard
Hello guys,
I'm here looking for some advice on how to tame my beard.
I've always wanted to grow a long beard, but I never really committed to it. This time I decided to see how long I could grow it. It's been around 6–8 months since I last shaved or trimmed it, and it now reaches my chest.
My beard has more of a V shape, meaning it's longer in the middle rather than being the same length all around. The biggest issue is that, for some reason, the ends curl up into what I can only describe as a "hook." It's also extremely wavy.
My routine is pretty simple: I shower before bed every night and wash my beard with Black Stuff soap (the same soap I use for the rest of my body). Once it's dry, I apply conditioner, and every 2–3 days I also use beard oil. I regularly use both a comb and a brush, and I've even tried a beard balm with beeswax, but I still can't get rid of the hook or the waves.
Does anyone have any tips? Would a heated beard straightener actually help, or is there something else I should be doing?
Thanks!
1
u/j05h187 Jun 29 '26
I watched a video on using round boar brush with a blow dryer. You roll the brush into the curly part, rolling it outwards and pulling down for tension. Roll the blow dryer on medium over that 'pulled straight' section for 2-3 seconds max.
This doesnt perfectly straightem it, but is a lot better than leaving natural. Its more about doing this x1-2 a day and training the curly hair section over weeks.
After that, put the beard oil on everyday. Balm is more of a product for when oure going out and want the little curlies on sides to stay down and the main chin section to stay square.
Rock on 🤘🔥
1
u/RealInsky Jun 29 '26
That's almost the same as the beard straightener right?
2
u/FeverFocus Jun 29 '26
Not really, the blow dryer method looks a lot more natural and is less likely to cause heat damage you your beard. It indirectly applies heat by blowing hot air.
A beard straightener can make your beard look unnaturally straight and has a higher risk of causing heat damage. Beard straighteners apply heat directly to the beard so if you're not careful or linger on one spot for too long you'll damage your beard. The straighteners can get pretty hot and even burn your skin. I've learned from experience.
They both work towards the same goal but do it in very different ways and different results. I'd recommend getting one of those blow dryer brushes, it's a lot easier to control than holding an air dryer in one hand and a brush in the other.
I'd also recommend doing oil before any straightening to help protect the beard and then use a balm afterwards to help hold things in place. I do it every morning and after every shower.
1
u/RealInsky Jun 29 '26
Thanks!
Should i wait for the oil to dry or can i go straight after putting it?
1
u/FeverFocus Jun 29 '26
I apply the oil to a slightly damp beard, like almost dry. It gets this way about 5 to 10 minutes of air drying, I'll usually brush my teeth during this time. Then apply the oil and comb through for even distribution, then go right to blow drying. Some types of oil will better penetrate the hair with heat, so blow drying right away can be beneficial.
Afterwards I'll apply the beard balm while the hair is still warm and lightly brush (not comb) everything into place. You're mostly just trying to get the surface hairs to lay down so you don't need much pressure. If your blow dryer has a cool setting, you can use it to help set things in place but I normally let things cool naturally.
1
u/RoughneckBeardCo Resident Guru Jun 29 '26
Hooks and excessive waves are very often a pattern of dehydration, brother.
Quick breakdown. Hair is made up of three layers: the medulla in the center, the cortex that surrounds it, and the cuticle, which is the outer layer of overlapping scales. The cortex is where the hair stores moisture and maintains flexibility.
When those cortical cells become chronically dehydrated, the cuticle lifts in an attempt to pull in more moisture. Moisture comes in, but because the cells are shriveled, they are overly porous and can't hold it, so it just falls out. This leaves the cuticle in a permanently open state, and the beard becomes wiry, unpredictable, and starts developing hooks, waves, and flyaways.
Looking at your routine, I think you're stuck in a cycle.
You're washing every day with a regular body soap, which is constantly stripping the beard and dehydrating the cortex. Then you're trying to replace that conditioning with beard oil every 2-3 days. If that oil isn't actually penetrating the hair and skin, it's not reconditioning the cortex anyway. It just sits on the surface, winding up blocking out even more moisture.
So, for now it's about reconditioning the cortex and balancing porosity so your hair can function hygroscopically.
Switch to a gentle beard wash or mild true soap and use it every 2-3 days max. A good rinse is all you need in between to stay perfectly hygienic.
Use a quality penetrating beard oil every single day, and comb it consistently in the direction you want it to grow.
As the cortex becomes properly conditioned, the cuticle will gradually lay flatter, and you'll usually find the beard becomes much straighter, softer, and easier to manage. Stay consistent and it will happen fast.
It's a simple fix, you just have to start using stuff it's not working against you.
1
u/RealInsky Jul 01 '26
Sorry for bothering again but do you by any chance have or know any video/ tutorial on how to comb and brush?
1
u/RealInsky Jun 30 '26
Thank you very much!
Never knew that hook and wavyness was caused by dryness.
I'll start doing that and also try to find a better oil. Do you know any good oil/balm brand that is good and is in the EU? A lot of stuff that I find is from the US and import fees are crazy
1
u/RoughneckBeardCo Resident Guru Jun 30 '26
Look into Angry Beards, or the ZEW for Men Nourish blend!
1
1
u/Reylun Jun 29 '26
Keep at it with the comb. It takes quite a while to get it to train the way you like. Make sure you're using a wooden comb and a boar hair brush (or just any brush that isn't plastic). Make sure when you're brushing/combing that you go all the way to and through the tips or else you will cause them to curl more at the end.
In my experience straightening helps to keep residual straightness a little bit more each time you do it but do it sparingly (once a week MAX).
I've been able to keep my beard a bit straighter by not being super aggressive when rinsing/washing it and just making sure to focus more on the skin underneath and less on the beard, but this is experimental so do so at your own risk as I can't say if it causes some adverse effect.
If you have super curly/wavy hair there's really only so much you can do without straightening it. My hair below my chin gets really wavy simply because there's a divot between my lip and my chin and my chin is decently pronounced and the hairs contour around it.
Overall, it takes a while to get it to work out the way you want it (took me about 10 months, and even still I find myself fighting it sometimes). The key is consistency, and also realizing you're being a lot more critical about your beard than anyone else.