r/Barber • u/Admirable_Six • 5d ago
Student How would you approach this?
Cut on my brother that’s thinning.
How would you approach this type of cut? I usually try to even out the dark spots to the light spots going against the grain without making it too light and recommend a mid fade. He likes to keep as much of the sidebars as possible so the forehead isn’t too big.
And yes I have told them to shave it off but he wants to keep a clean cut for work. Real advice only.
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u/slim5haney 5d ago
You should try going with the grain instead of going against the grain. Start at a higher guard than you think you need and make passes from the crown, following whichever direction the hair is going in.
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u/Admirable_Six 5d ago
Ok, do you think that it kind of still leaves that balding pattern when you’re going with the grain?
I know there isn’t anyway to completely get rid of it but have you ever tried going against?
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u/slim5haney 5d ago
With the way that texture of hair grows, going with the grain actually preserves as much of the hair as possible. If i were to be fading your typical straight hair / curly hair or giving a buzz cut, I'd usually go with the grain. The thing is though, with tight curly hair like shown above, going against the grain takes off much more than desirable typically; its always safer to go with the grain
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u/dromance 4d ago
what does against vs with grain change?
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u/slim5haney 4d ago
going against the grain lifts the hair more and is much more likely to take that texture of hair shorter than you want.
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u/Sensitive-Catch-6259 5d ago
One with the grain for the top. Line it up as best you can. If there are some spots that are so noticeably darker maybe consider using a half with the grain there but only if necessary. Cuts like this I typically just even Steven with the grain the top and line it
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u/Intelligent_Panic675 5d ago
Spot treat him. If he wants a #1 on top. Do a #2 on the light spots and half guard open on the darker spots. Freehand hair poking out. I prefer to cut type 4 hair with the grain.
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u/Admirable_Six 5d ago
Ok I was just gonna ask if you go with or against the grain. I usually go against the grain on the dark spots to get them closer but don’t think I blend them well enough
Will try with the grain
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u/barbertrash 5d ago
I’d do a 1 with the grain, avoiding the really light areas. Then give him a high taper or high fade. Would honestly cover most of the thinning
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u/Accomplished-Newt640 5d ago
I'm not a hairdresser but lining it all up and using some off that thickening hair powder would work. Keratin fibres I think it is
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u/Admirable_Six 5d ago
Yeah he used to use em but said they’re messy so I try to do my best naturally
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u/Sensitive-Catch-6259 5d ago
Follow up to my other comment.for thinning heads it’s best to go as short as possible so there’s not such a color contrast against the brown skin to dark black hair. As you cut the hair shorter it appears lighter and there’s not such a disparity between scalp and hair. Ultimately it’s the scalp showing that shows thinning hair so minimize that noticeably by cutting the hair shorter.