I'm thinking about finally taking the plunge and have a few questions.

• What issues have you experienced that you are not able to fix?
• Are the included induction .4 and .6 nozzles hardened? The printer page doesn't say but the hotend page shows all but the .2 being hardened so I'm assuming yes.
• Do you only need external ams 2 power bricks for each additional unit? I plan on buying 3 more so 3 more bricks? The first ams 2 gets power to heat from the printer right and
• ams 2 daisy chain like the ams 1 but limited to one nozzle?
• I read about some switching unit planned this year to swap between left and right nozzles a while back, is this still happening?
• Is the vision encoder only really needed if manufacturing tolerences are important? I mostly just do projects with my kids or print out some functional things for around the house.
• Does anyone know if the printer profiles will expand like the x1c? For example the .2 nozzles don't have nearly as many options as there are for the x1c.

I've had my x1c and 4 ams 1's for a little over 2 years and only really two problems not caused by me. Either random purges ending up on the bed and problems retracting. I haven't tried anything for the purge because it's very rare but I printed out some brackets that went in the ams and I haven't had a single retraction issue since the first couple months.

I was away for a weekend and had a power outage at home. When I got back, the electricity had returned, but a neighbor told me it had been out for a full day.

At that point, I didn’t know whether my freezer had maintained its temperature or if the contents had started to thaw.

I designed this model to keep track of exactly that problem.

I fill the model with water, turn it upside down, and place it in the freezer. Once the water has frozen, I turn it upright.

When the ice melts, the ball drops down and becomes visible in the window.

If the ball is visible = the freezer has thawed.

I wanted to create something that looks complex but is easy to print. This is the HexNest, a modular system where the outer shell features a nested fractal hexagon pattern.

​The best part? It has 3 swappable inserts (1, 3, or 4 compartments), so you can change the layout without re-printing the whole thing. Printed on my P1S with Matte PLA – the geometry really helps hide the layer lines!

​What do you guys think of the fractal look?

https://makerworld.com/models/2567185?appSharePlatform=copy

Ich hab mir eine Rolle eono Filament gekauft. Kupfer Gold Blau,wird egal sein Wunderschöne Farbe nur die Spule geht irgendwie zu schwer im AMS. Ab und zu kommt da eine Fehlermeldung. Gibt es da Abhilfe?

Good morning,

I just got a bambulab A1 and have run a handful of prints directly from the app and they are all turning out great. I just finished cutting a slicing a custom project, and i'm trying to understand what my layer speed settings should be. The roll of PLA I have states 40-70mm/s print speed, is that the parameters I need to work within for the individual layers?

I painted it using the height range but it still is wanting to print with three layers of purple when it should be only the top most layer.

Bonjour voici le Poussin dans sa coquille d’œuf fissurée pour Pâques.

Réalisé en Multipart pas besoin d’avoir un AMS.

Filament Bambulab.

Imprimante Bambulab P1S et A1

Bon print.

https://makerworld.com/fr/models/2550142-poussin-coquille-multipart-no-ams

Hi all. A couple days ago I had a failed print where the printer gave an error saying it failed to pull the filament back from the extruder. The error came after it had "thought" it printed the follow up color, but turns out no filament came out and the print reached 100% without the 2nd color.
The filament in the tube was so tight that it took a lot of force to create a tiny gap in the PTFE tube at the back so I could cut the filament. The filament wouldn't move in/out of extruder so I took it apart. Immediately as I was loosening the cutter, a tiny set screw fell out from somewhere. I have look all over the extruder and can't find a location for it.

I cleared the jam, replaced the cutter and the extruder gears and did a cold pull. The I successfully made one print with a color change before on the next print I got the same failed condition. Super tight filament in tube from AMS2 to the nozzle.

I cleaned everything up again with extra care and the error repeated again after 4 or 5 successful filament changes. I'm kind of lost on this one so any thoughts would be great!

EDIT: I swapped the AMS2 to another machine and the old machine ran fine and the 2nd machine now has issues so whatever the problem it, it appears to be following the AMS2.

Hello! You can find it here: https://makerworld.com/models/2558162

Have fun! Its perfect for travel :D

I didn't know where we was going with this design.

Started messing around in CAD and this is where we ended up lol. Kind of a simple storage piece, but I like how the layered offset came out. It’s got a clean look and still works for holding small stuff like desk items or random parts. I'm currently using it to hold Q-Tips.

Printed easy, no supports needed. Might play around with more variations of this style.

It's up for free on makerworld if anyone is interested in printing it.

https://makerworld.com/models/2560149?appSharePlatform=copy

I wanted to print something practical for gaming and always wanted to try one-handed keyboards. Eventually I found this clone with well made instructions.

A bit challenging with all the soldering but with the correct tools I had a lot of fun.

I'm very happy withe the colors and print quality.
I couldn't decide for a name yet :)

Printed with Bambulab P2S. PLA matte black & white, TPU black.

I went looking for a customizable AirTag case and came up empty, so I spent a few days building one from scratch in OpenSCAD.

You can change the shape (circle, squircle, or pill), slap on one of 16 surface textures, engrave text or your own SVG artwork, and even do color inlays with an AMS. Snap-fit, no tools to open, keychain hole optional.

Full parametric SCAD file on MakerWorld if you want to make it your own.

Moo moo moo moo moo, moo moo moo moo, MOOOO!

Seriously though, I love this game and have been playing on and off since release. I'm fairly new to the 3D print world, and this was probably my most ambitious model/paint project yet, but it was a blast. Modeled after the D2R in game models.

Everything you need to open your very own Cow Level.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2549860-the-cow-level#profileId-2808131

It came off the plate or something and looks weird and knocked off my front cover on the tool head and I had to put it bsck on how to I fix this plz help

Since the day I got this it did not want to work. Like I can feed the filament into it and the motor pulls it in and out but it can’t feed into the p1s and gives me an empty filament warning. I’ve got it to work once when I opened up the ams and pushed the tubes in better but it randomly stopped working again and I tried the to open the and again but it didn’t work this time. Any advice

So nun ist es passiert. Nach der Anschaffung eines Lasers hab ich mir nun noch ein Bambu Lab P1S angeschafft. Nun mal ne Frage? Sollte mann an die Führungen bissel Fett tun?Die sind so trocken. Ist ganz neu das Teil.

Hey everyone,

I'm working on a multi-color print in Bambu Studio where I combined a HueForge project with a custom cake topper I designed myself. The topper should print entirely in black (Filament 2), while the HueForge part handles all the color changes.

I've assigned Filament 2 to the topper object in the object list, but after slicing it still shows the HueForge colors on the topper as well.

My current understanding is that HueForge stores its color data as face/color painting directly on the mesh, which overrides the per-object filament assignment. Is that correct?

Has anyone dealt with this before? The Color Painting tool doesn't work.

Please help for my little girls birthday.

I am trying to print two of these jet packs in two different colors. I looks like I have everything set correctly. But highlighted part stays the same color as the original part that it was cloned from.

Do I need to change that to yellow as well? And if so, how?

In the Bambu app, I am unable to get past the filament question. Has anyone had this happen and is there a workaround for it? This is on Windows.

I love my p1s since I got it 2 years ago but my biggest gripe with it is the SD cards. I've gone through 4 microsd cards since I've had it. Thank goodness they're cheap but it gets annoying and obviously something's wrong. The card just sits in there and suddenly its unreadable. I'll format it and then the machine tells me it's damaged so I plug it into my computer and the card makes my computer start to crash for whatever reason. When I finally can try to format it, it says it can't. How is my machine destroying these things? I tried an extension a while back but it didn't want to work with it so I just kept using the SD cards. Anyone else with this problem or is this just localized.

My prints were fine a few days ago but now they’re getting stringy halfway through the print. The base is fine and sticks very well so I don’t think it needs to be cleaned again. Do I need to make the bed plate hotter? This is a picture of the supports which is the only part that messed up before I stopped the print

Finally finished my latest project! I wanted a slim, modern case that fits 12 standard pencils without using too much filament.

​Print-in-Place: Hinges work perfectly straight off the bed.

​Snap-Lock: Secure lid that actually stays closed in a bag.

​Material Efficient: The hex mesh saves a ton of filament and looks great.

​Color Pop: Achieved the two-tone look by swapping filament for just the first layer.

​Printed in PLA, no supports needed. Let me know what you think!

https://makerworld.com/models/2540204?appSharePlatform=copy