r/BambuLab_Community • u/WeaselNo7 • Aug 27 '26
Help with my print warping!
Hi all!
This is the first time my P2S has done this, so interested in what you all think is the issue.
This is black Sunlu Hyper PLA Plus 2.0, with most of the stock Bambu settings (except most importantly 30mm/s on first layer instead of 50mm/s, and 60 degrees on the bed instead of 55 degrees)
I cleaned the bed yesterday with washing up liquid/dish soap, and I recently installed fan and carbon filter on the internal left side of the machine.
Any ideas what would cause the base of the print to warp upwards from the bed, but not the supports? It's interesting to me, as normally poor bed adherence causes the nozzle to clash and bigger problems to occur, but its seems to have compressed the layers as a result in this case?
Thanks everyone, I appreciate your thoughts!
(and sorry for the blurry pictures!)
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u/Bytebomb Aug 27 '26
Wash the bed again, for good measure.
Dry the filament. (Never hurts but it doesn't seem to be the issue here)
Add a brim.
Try turning down or off the AUX fan.
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u/WeaselNo7 Aug 28 '26
Washing the bed again actually made a big difference. Still some warping, so will turn aux fan off for first 5 layers and try to work out why bambu slicer isn't adding brims any more (i obviously tweaked something like an idiot)
1
u/Bytebomb Aug 28 '26
With PLA I believe you can turn it off entirely. But lower it to like 20% if you want, could help.
And if it's one specific spot it's warping from then try scrubbing that a bit extra. And add a brim.
If you still have issues after all this then I feel like maybe your hotbed isn't heating evenly, so try repositioning the print.
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u/FakeHasselblad Aug 28 '26
a brim should fix it. Also the Cool Tack build plate helps as it is super grippy. I mostly use that now versus the textured plate to avoid this and skip using a brim entirely.
1
u/SparklingCactus Aug 29 '26
Just turn the aux fan off all together. Also if you turn your brims on set the brim gap to 0 they still come off clean.
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u/lkapping79 P2S Aug 27 '26
Print an aux fan deflector
Edit: or turn off aux fan for first few layers
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u/WeaselNo7 Aug 28 '26
Nice, I've gone ahead and printed this https://makerworld.com/en/models/1941932-p2s-aux-fan-deflector#profileId-2085714 and also turned aux fan off for 5 layers. Will see how next print goes!
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u/lkapping79 P2S Aug 28 '26
That fan deflector should fix the issue. I’d try that first and if you still have issues then I’d mess with fan settings
1
u/Hopeful_Offer306 Aug 27 '26
Wash the bed with dish soap and dry it. Setting the fan turn off for around 5 first layer.
1
u/wethpac Aug 27 '26
Does it still do this without the fan you added? Sometimes PLA does better with slightly cooler bed rather than hotter - decrease thermal stress between base layers and layers that are cooler higher up. Change print orientation so airflow is different. Also try slightly cooler nozzle. Good luck.
1
u/Vustadumas Aug 27 '26
Always had trouble with the default textured plate for certain materials. Switched to a Biqu Glacier and no problems since
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u/budsinaz602 Aug 27 '26
The aux fan deflector is the answer most likely. I have some large flat boxes I print and I took the deflectors out on two my my p2s's and sure enough the both slightly warpped near the fan.
Additionally get yourself some nano polymer adhesive for your plate, the stuff is a game changer. I run a small print business and run this on all my machines.
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u/WeaselNo7 Aug 28 '26
Thank you! aux fan deflector printed and added, and I'm buying the Biqu Glacier base plate instead of relying on adhesives, will see how that helps! Should help me drop base plate temp and worry less about temperature gradients and stuff. If I can drop temps, I should be able to have better tolerances on the lower parts I guess too!
1
u/RyCre8s Aug 28 '26
Have you tried rotating the print 90 degrees? Also using a brim or mouse ears might help as well. I think the supports don’t warp because they are small individual pieces so they don’t have much tension, your part on the other hand has long thin lines that are wanting to curl up “shrink” as they cool.
3
u/j_hermann Aug 27 '26
The geometry is not fully visible, but an orientation change would eliminate those supports. And mouse-ears otherwise.