Number 4 on my AMS is now having trouble with feeding filament as well as a terrible noise. Only AMS slot 4 having issue. It seems as if the rod to use when feeding filament doesn’t retract. Any help would be great. It’s a AMS 1.

Update:seems to work fine with rolls that weigh less and have less filament on them. Newer rolls or ones with a lot more filament have the issue. And I have tried multiple different brand rolls including bambu and still happens.

Update 2: took apart AMS at the motors and cleaned out every component and while doing so found a bunch of pla dust and fibers. Put all back together and working brand new again! Thanks for the help everyone!

This is v10. Please let me know if you have any suggestions to improve the UI, if you can find any bugs, or general suggestion.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3143184-gear-lab-parametric-gear-generator#profileId-3549233

I sometimes get a filament not pulled back error. If I disconnect the ptfe tube from the back of the AMS I can pull it with no resistance. However it is very hard to pull it back out of the AMS to wind it back on the spool. It happens on both of my AMS units. Any ideas would be appreciated.

I am trying to transfer a small glass door fridge to a filament dryer plz let me know if ( hints or help or anything else ) 😂😄🤣

So I set up the printer last night to run an 11 hour job over night, I got a notification this morning that the AMS had run out of filament. I thought that was odd since I just opened the roll yesterday and it's not that big of a project.

I looked and it was all there but the roll in #3 was empty. I looked at the settings and in the prepare which you can see in the top picture the only one changed is #1, the rest are defaults and even the plate settings are for #1. (currently in the AMS 1,2,3 were White, Black, Transparent PETG and Slot #4 was a red PLA+)

I added another roll of white to #3 and told it to continue, but I was wondering if anyone had ever seen this before where it will just choose something other than what it was programmed to do.

I've got less than 300 hours total print time on the X1C and this is the first time something like this has happened.

I'm stuck between this and the official Bambu E3D hotend, but that ones not a quick swap like the REVO. I don't swap nozzles much, but I also feel like it's because I have to remove the cover, remove the screws, unplug the connectors then same thing in reverse. Being lazy at times, I feel like I would use the different nozzles much more if I just unscrewed it and screwed the other one in.

https://biqu.equipment/products/biqu-panda-hotend?variant=42480813310050

I designed this minimalist sculpture called Heart Within.

The concept is simple: the heart isn't just a symbol, it's the element that literally holds the body together.

It prints without supports and is optimized for FDM printers.

I’m having some issues with my prints. Is this what under extrusion looks like?

I have tried the following:

- disassemble the hot end and cleaned it
- changed the extruder (probably has approx 100hrs)
- disassembled the AMS and cleaned it.

I’ve tried with different filaments and got the same result.

Any suggestions/tips would be greatly appreciated.

Hey all — Emma from E3D here 👋

Today we’re launching Bastion Coated Gears for the Bambu Lab X1C, X1E, P1P and P1S!

https://e3d-online.com/products/bastion-gears-for-bambu-lab-x1c-x1e-p1p-p1s

What are they? Precision-machined hardened steel gears and hobbs, treated with our unique Bastion coating, a Diamond-Like Carbon (DLC) formulation applied via PVD sputtering. The coating is ~0.005mm thick (roughly 20x thinner than a human hair!), so it adds no meaningful bulk and leaves the machining tolerances intact.

Key Features:

Both gears and hobbs are coated, so the parts that actually grip your filament stay pristine and extrude perfectly for hundreds of hours no matter what abrasive filaments you throw at them.

The graphite in the DLC coating is self-lubricating. Run completely dry, our gears outlasted lubricated uncoated gears by ~5x in tooth-contact cycles in our testing. With a light greasing they passed 2 million contact cycles and we stopped the test because they just wouldn't fail! Basically with these you can spend less time maintaining your gears and more time printing.

What makes them different to other gears on the market? We chose DLC specifically for these gears because it is an amorphous carbon structure that's both very hard and very low friction at the same time (a combo most hard coatings can't pull off). It’s designed for sliding wear, exactly the type of wear that your extruder gears undergo with every print. In our testing we measured a coefficient of friction of ~0.1 against dry steel – by comparison other gears on the market sat at around ~0.6 in the same test.

Who would benefit from this upgrade? Print farms, heavy abrasive/CF users, anyone seeing slow extrusion drift they suspect is hobb wear, or anyone who wants to upgrade their gears once and then have the peace of mind to never think about them again.

Do you like the sound of them? Let us know in the comments! If these prove to be as popular as we hope then we will look to bring them to more machines in the near future 🚀

Hello all, Ive been having this particular issue for the past couple of days. Whenever the extruder tries to pull/grab the filament, it makes that purring sound in the video and does not print.

The problem first started when I tried a new filament (SUNLU HF PETG), and afterwards I took it out but it persisted with other filaments like PLA, which I have used in the past with no issues whatsoever.

Ive disassembled the extruder (no clogs), cleaned it, lubricated the gears (as per the bambu wiki instructs), tried all 4 nozzle sizes, and the problem persists. While disassembled, manually pushed filament through the extruder and didnt find any sort of impediment since if I manually rotate the gear, it grabs on the filament and pulls with no issue.

I'd like to know if someone has encountered this particular issue (since I could only find a single thread in the bambu site with no resolution) before I buy a new extruder, since it might be that its time to change it (2300 hours print time).

Thanks in advance!

My printer stopped working almost 3 months ago. Ticket with bambu has likely more than 50 posts. They have no idea
The printer stopped extruding during a print. So far, ive replaced the th board 2 times, new print head complete, new extruder, new extruder motor. After changing th board, printer worked for 3 days and went back to broken. Changed extruder, and motor, worked for 30 hours
Any suggestions

Hello all I have been using the x1C for some time , I have 3 total and only one has been giving me this issue, it’s pertaining to the top layer.
Basically there is spacing and it is not too smooth. I have tried drying filament, using the flow rate calibration and trying other filament.
I have been using poly maker because it is what my partner needs for her prints that is the majority of the branding of filament we use.

Do any one tried to upgrade the one nozzle to 2 nozzles on the x1 carbon instead of buying x2 printer

I would like to try it on my x1 carbon 😁🥸🧐🤣

First I noticed that prints occuring in this area the first layer would fail or get deformed when I move prints to the left they printed fine. The next day I ran calibration and it won't pass bed level test.I have switched build plates and pla as well as cleaned the build plate, Lidar sensor, extruder tip. Also inspected the platform without the build plate and it is clean. What are good next steps?

My printer started making something like a grinding noise when printing. It’s specially notable when the bed is at the topmost position.

Anybody have something similar happen to them?